Build Thread Want To Blow 5 Years And $50k On A Foxbody? Step By Step Instructions Inside!
- Thread starter RacEoHolic330
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With all the welding I did back there, I should be well on my way to 25.5 cert 
I haven't even began to do much research on boost controllers yet. Don't even know if I want to go electronic or manual at this point. I did look at the Hallman controllers and they look like a nice manual controller. Any insight about electronic vs. manual?
I'm hoping for the turbo to show up on Friday, so hopefully I can do some pipe work this weekend. I'm going to have to lug the TKO up from the basement and install it so I can make sure the engine is sitting at the proper position before I start cutting away. With the poly motor mounts, the engine is leaning back a bit, so I have no way of knowing exactly where it will sit without bolting the transmission to the crossmember.
I haven't even began to do much research on boost controllers yet. Don't even know if I want to go electronic or manual at this point. I did look at the Hallman controllers and they look like a nice manual controller. Any insight about electronic vs. manual?
I'm hoping for the turbo to show up on Friday, so hopefully I can do some pipe work this weekend. I'm going to have to lug the TKO up from the basement and install it so I can make sure the engine is sitting at the proper position before I start cutting away. With the poly motor mounts, the engine is leaning back a bit, so I have no way of knowing exactly where it will sit without bolting the transmission to the crossmember.
Make sure the TKO is as level as possible this usually isnt an issue in a fox. Motor lean back should be around 2.5 degrees 
Yeah my 25.5 took a lot of gas and time, I was almost a certified contorsionist
I hear about alot of issue with the electronic controllers but I personally have very little expierence with them, mostly I use manual controllers.
Yeah my 25.5 took a lot of gas and time, I was almost a certified contorsionist
I hear about alot of issue with the electronic controllers but I personally have very little expierence with them, mostly I use manual controllers.
1991notchbackLX
Active Member
Your work is top notch, really. I love this thread. It almost makes me want to forget the whole "let's get married and buy a house" thing so that I can have the disposable income to work on my own cars again.
Thanks man. I appreciate it. The marraige deal is luckily not on the current horizon, hence me actually making progress on this build. Hopefully she doesn't come to me anytime soon saying she wants to tie the knot. I hope she can fit a Dart 331 on her finger, because that's where her ring funds are sitting!
Finished bracing up the frame. Strong like bull! Also got my woofer today. Now I just need to figure out the best way to mount it. It is a downfiring design, so it will mount as shown in the pictures below. I'm thinking about welding in 2 more braces that run front to back and then screwing the ends of the box directly to those braces. I may also use a strap around the middle as an extra way of securing it. I think I'd like to avoid mounting it directly to the spare tire well floor.
Oh, the main event show up today earlier than expected!
I think this is an appropriate time for such a video:
Oh, the main event show up today earlier than expected!
I think this is an appropriate time for such a video:
Jason 302
10 Year Member
I am likely not capable to doing what you're doing there but... Looking at what you have so far, I think I would make two brackets. One for the front and one for the back:
View attachment 154370
This is a side view. The top portion of the bracket fits over the welded bars you have in place. The red lines indicate attaching hardware. The gray sphere is a rubber insulator of some sort between thee bracket and the side of your sub-woofer box.
The brackets would be long enough to attach to the BOTTOM of your woofer box so that it doesn't interfere with anything up top.
The whole thing would still be removable by taking out the hardware and be totally hidden by whatever cover you run over the top. Shouldn't make any rattling noises when the woofer goes BOOM BOOM BOOM either.
View attachment 154370
This is a side view. The top portion of the bracket fits over the welded bars you have in place. The red lines indicate attaching hardware. The gray sphere is a rubber insulator of some sort between thee bracket and the side of your sub-woofer box.
The brackets would be long enough to attach to the BOTTOM of your woofer box so that it doesn't interfere with anything up top.
The whole thing would still be removable by taking out the hardware and be totally hidden by whatever cover you run over the top. Shouldn't make any rattling noises when the woofer goes BOOM BOOM BOOM either.
Good stuff Noobz. Thanks for the diagram 
. I'm going to try to replicate something close to that. Two brackets came with the sub that are meant to screw into the sides, so I'll try to utilize those as well. I like the idea of the rubber isolation. I think I have some stuff laying around that I can use.
I'm probably going to return to the sub brackets after I finish up the downpipe fabrication. I want to get this engine out of the car and covered back up again. It's getting diiiiirty sitting in the garage!
. I'm going to try to replicate something close to that. Two brackets came with the sub that are meant to screw into the sides, so I'll try to utilize those as well. I like the idea of the rubber isolation. I think I have some stuff laying around that I can use.I'm probably going to return to the sub brackets after I finish up the downpipe fabrication. I want to get this engine out of the car and covered back up again. It's getting diiiiirty sitting in the garage!
In a perfect world, it would be great to have the car done by then, but the end of summer is when I just hope to have the unibody painted and ready for re-assembly. Once I finish this turbo piping I still have to finish welding up the engine bay, fill and smooth the engine bay, clean and paint the inside, clean/scuff/scrub and paint the underside (this includes undercoating removal 
), fill and smooth any and all body imperfections, test fit all body parts, and go over every inch of the car to make sure I didn't forget any aspect of the build that will require ANY kind of cutting, grinding, or welding after it has all been painted. Once this thing is painted, my garage becomes somewhat of an operating room atmosphere, and it will be strictly a matter of putting parts back on the car. I'll be pretty pissed at myself if I overlook something that needed to be done prior to paint.
I'm very anal and definitely have OCD, so this is a slow and steady process for me. I enjoy every minute of all of it (I wouldn't be doing this if I hated it), but I'm not in a rush to throw this car back together. I didn't make as much progress over this winter as I had planned. Life happens. If she is registered and insured by Spring of 2013, I will be happy with that
.
Also, I have been buying parts for this build little by little since late 2010. I actually should increase my homeowners insurance because of all the parts I have in my basement! I still need a fuel system ($2k), paint job ($5k), some suspension stuff ($2k), and other odds and ends that will nickle and dime me to death (lets guess another $2k). Soooo, yea, that's a lot of money; and with all the parts I've already bought, my Mustang piggy is empty. I'm on call 24/7 at work when there are storms, and that's where I get my overtime $$$, so lets hope for a stormy and windy 2012 in the Northeast!
I'm very anal and definitely have OCD, so this is a slow and steady process for me. I enjoy every minute of all of it (I wouldn't be doing this if I hated it), but I'm not in a rush to throw this car back together. I didn't make as much progress over this winter as I had planned. Life happens. If she is registered and insured by Spring of 2013, I will be happy with that
. Also, I have been buying parts for this build little by little since late 2010. I actually should increase my homeowners insurance because of all the parts I have in my basement! I still need a fuel system ($2k), paint job ($5k), some suspension stuff ($2k), and other odds and ends that will nickle and dime me to death (lets guess another $2k). Soooo, yea, that's a lot of money; and with all the parts I've already bought, my Mustang piggy is empty. I'm on call 24/7 at work when there are storms, and that's where I get my overtime $$$, so lets hope for a stormy and windy 2012 in the Northeast!
In a perfect world, it would be great to have the car done by then, but the end of summer is when I just hope to have the unibody painted and ready for re-assembly. Once I finish this turbo piping I still have to finish welding up the engine bay, fill and smooth the engine bay, clean and paint the inside, clean/scuff/scrub and paint the underside (this includes undercoating removal
I'm very anal and definitely have OCD, so this is a slow and steady process for me. I enjoy every minute of all of it (I wouldn't be doing this if I hated it), but I'm not in a rush to throw this car back together. I didn't make as much progress over this winter as I had planned. Life happens. If she is registered and insured by Spring of 2013, I will be happy with that
Also, I have been buying parts for this build little by little since late 2010. I actually should increase my homeowners insurance because of all the parts I have in my basement! I still need a fuel system ($2k), paint job ($5k), some suspension stuff ($2k), and other odds and ends that will nickle and dime me to death (lets guess another $2k). Soooo, yea, that's a lot of money; and with all the parts I've already bought, my Mustang piggy is empty. I'm on call 24/7 at work when there are storms, and that's where I get my overtime $$$, so lets hope for a stormy and windy 2012 in the Northeast!
Well alrighty then. I tend to be thorough, but when you dot your "I's" and cross your T's,....it takes a lot more ink than I got. Your project is the one that will garner all of the OOOhs and Ahhs when ever it gets done. I surmise it'll be like 1080P.....you cant get close enough to the picture to find any flaws.
If we were closer I'd be there so often, you'd turn out your lights to hide from me.
The one good thing I get out of your build thread though........
I don't feel bad trying to justify $2200.00 for Weber carburetors after seeing the money you're spending.
Haha. I keep reminding myself that this car will actually be driven on the street, so I try not to let my anal tendencies get the best of me!
And yea, don't feel bad about the carbs. That shiny hair dryer on my bench wasn't a whole lot less than that
.
And yea, don't feel bad about the carbs. That shiny hair dryer on my bench wasn't a whole lot less than that
.
Rick, maybe you can help me. Take a look at the threaded oil feed in this picture. It's a little hard to see, but the threads don't begin until about a 1/4" of the way down. What the heck kind of -4AN oil feed adapter am I supposed to use for this? The one I have isn't long enough to reach the threads.
Hopefully all I need is a long fitting. If I need to have a machine shop tap the turbo for a two bolt flange, I'll be sending Comp the bill!
I also noticed that the orifice going into the center section is VERY small in diameter. Makes me wonder if I actually need a .041 reducer after my fitting. Ill ask them about that too.
I also noticed that the orifice going into the center section is VERY small in diameter. Makes me wonder if I actually need a .041 reducer after my fitting. Ill ask them about that too.
Btw, what kind of blow-through MAF sensors does everyone like? Need one calibrated for 95lb injectors. I like the Abaco meters, but have heard about a lot of issues with them.
