Water Pump/thermostat Housing

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by Billy Frank, Sep 19, 2013.

  1. I got a 347 stroker with eldebrock water pump in the 2nd picture that has holes plugged in thermostat housing and plugged in the water pump.

    Then the first picture I have found on Internet that this 347 stroker has a hose running from water pump to thermostat housing to water pump. Which is correct? And why would mine be plugged?

    Attached Files:

  2. And should I change mine or leave it plugged? It was like this when I bought it.
  3. Hope this helps
    #3 mikestang63, Sep 19, 2013
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2013
  4. So I do need to run the hose from the thermostat housing to the water pump correct?
  5. The picture you have here shows to hoses coming out of your water pump, the one on the right going into the thermostat housing and where does the second one go? Mine has to hex headed plugs with teflon tape on them and plugged off on the water pump. I'm confused why it was done this way. Can anyone tell me why they would plug the holes off and plug the thermostat housing off also? I'm just trying to get everything fixed correctly or can I run it with the holes plugged off? Thanks in advance
  6. The hose leading to the thermostat housing is a bypass to the thermostat. The other hose leads to the heater core via a black steel tube that runs the length of the intake manifold. I have seen people block them off to eliminate the heat in the car. I personally would like to see the bypass installed back at the very least. Whether you reinstall the heat or not is up to you.
  7. Ok. My car does not have heat, nor does it have a thermostat in it so I assume that is why it is plugged off wouldn't you think?
  8. Why no thermostat? I'd put that back in unless it's drag only. Not to get into a long rant, but there is zero benefit in running no thermostat. Quite the opposite.
  9. That is likely the reason, but as Mike said above^^^ The car should have a thermostat regardless
  10. Yes. You should have a thermostat and at least one of the hoses. If you don't have the heater hose, then you should have the bypass hose. Ask for a bypass hose for your car at the parts store. They are a few dollars.

  11. So you bought that car...

    Best of luck
  12. Yea, I bought it... a lot less than he had it priced and he bought the car the way it sat and had no clue about anything on it so I'm having to go through everything and check every bolt, compression, wiring and trying to make it run it's best.
    What thermostat should I run in it?
  13. 180 is my choice
  14. Luckily I only drove it straight home after I bought it because that hose he had on the thermostat housing blew off, and I shut her off before it got hot, then changed the spark plugs last night and 3 of them were finger tight, checked compression on every cylinder and got readings between 125-140 for all cylinders. I keep getting told that the BBK upper and lower intakes are not that good. Has anyone ran these? What is your take on them?
  15. so put me a 180 thermostat on it and put the bypass hose from the thermostat housing to the water pump correct?
  16. Also, the car sets a little high and I'd like to lower it, what lowering springs do you recommend? And should I put different control arms on front and rear also? what brand on those do you recommend also?
    Thanks for everyone's help
  17. Sorry to keep bothering everyone but also when I drove it and I let off the gas it has bad back pressure popping from the exhaust. What could that be? Plugs, Timing,etc...?
  18. Ok, first the good news...

    Throw a stock 192 FORD thermostat in it. If you use an autoparts store one test it first by putting it in boiling water to make sure it opens and at the proper temperature. Get a Felpro thermostat gasket with the sticky on both sides. Use blue RTV as well on both sides of the gasket. There is a right and wrong side to install the thermostat. Pointy end to the radiator, spring side to the engine, small bleed hole on top. Make sure it is seated in the little ring in the thermostat housing, if not when you tighten it down you will crack the housing, Check the housing for signs of pitting or rust. Make sure the mating surfaces are clean and straight on both the housing and intake side. Torque down the two bolts and do not overtighten- I use blue loctite so they don't back out. The little bypass hose is a PITA to put on. Use some WD40 or silicone on the end to slip it on.

    Now for the not so good news...

    125-140 compression?

    View attachment 182270

    You should have at least 150-160. The 15lb variance is just at the limit but still the highest reading is too low IMO. You sure you did it correct? Were all plugs out or just one. Did this guy spray the motor or have a blower on it? How many miles... you need to give more details.

    Popping from the exhaust could be an exhaust leak, improper timing or running too rich, valves bent or stuck.

    I see a leakdown test in your future grasshopper.

    And yes, the BBK intakes literally suck- oil, gas.
  19. What intake would you recommend? What about suspension and lowering kits?
  20. What I recommend is diagnosing and fixing your current problem with that motor before you start talking about suspension and lowering kits. I would first run the codes and a cylinder balance test, and also a leakdown test and see what is going on with that motor.