way off gas gague and volt gauge.

ryan218

In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
Dec 28, 2005
0
1
38
columbus ohio
when i put my new gauges in i dont think i got two of the six gauges on in the same location where you pulled the neddles off. ( my fault i was in a hurry to see how they would look :( ) anyway. for the gas gauge. i ran out of gas but lucky coasted into a gas station ( aint that luck! ) it said i still had a half tank but they wasent right...put gas in and fired right up. ( tank was bone and i been bone dry ) kicked it and it was just a hollow echo ) so when i fill up the neddle way back to where i cant see...( see pic # 1 )...so when the neddle got to the full mark i put 10 bucks in gas in and got around 3.1 gallons in it. neddle went back up. Drove 91! miles and then the neddle just settled back on the full mark...now i know for a fact there is no way in hell that i went 91 miles on 3 gallons of gas. so how can i get my gas gauge to be extra. Can i just fill my tank all the way up and put the neddle back in the full mark?

pic.

what about for my volt gauge? can i do the same. with the car off put the neddle back at the bottom.

untitled-3.jpg
 

Attachments

  • untitled-3.jpg
    untitled-3.jpg
    18 KB · Views: 66
  • Sponsors (?)


you know it was at half when you ran out If you filled the tank all the way up you need to just aim it at the F

The volt gauge can be adjusted also.

Easy way is take cover off gauges and turn key off adjust needles and turn key on check position and adjust as needed until its where you wanted it.

When I did the gauges in my vert I intentionally put the needle lower than what it really had so I wouldnt ever run out.
 
you know it was at half when you ran out If you filled the tank all the way up you need to just aim it at the F

The volt gauge can be adjusted also.

Easy way is take cover off gauges and turn key off adjust needles and turn key on check position and adjust as needed until its where you wanted it.

When I did the gauges in my vert I intentionally put the needle lower than what it really had so I wouldnt ever run out.

well i guess ill go fill it up after schoo and do that.
 
The volt gauge is easy to get set correctly. The middle mark on the gauge dial, the one that is perfectly horizontal,
is supposed to be 14 volts.

Start the car and use a DVM or multimeter to read the voltage at some convient point. Use that reading to place
the pointer relative to the 14 volt horizontal mark on the voltmeter. If you are careful, you will only be off by a few
tenths of a volt worse case.
 
The volt gauge is easy to get set correctly. The middle mark on the gauge dial, the one that is perfectly horizontal,
is supposed to be 14 volts.

Start the car and use a DVM or multimeter to read the voltage at some convient point. Use that reading to place
the pointer relative to the 14 volt horizontal mark on the voltmeter. If you are careful, you will only be off by a few
tenths of a volt worse case.

That is good info to know for future refrence. :nice: Especially since my question revolves around this gauge.

Ryan I don't want to steal your thunder in this thread, but since its somewhat related im going to ask the question.

My volt gauge doesn't want to fall all the way down when the car is turned off. It will just fall below the halfway mark and stay there, so when you crank the car the next time, the needle shoots up much like Ryans gas hand did. It just started doing this out of nowhere, worked correctly before. I took the plastic cover off and lightly touched the hand and it fell right down where it should be. Cranked it up and the gauge was correct, but when I turned it off again it got stuck a little below halfway so its back to where it was. Any idea on why its doing this? I'm looking to buy the same gauges Ryan has and would like to get this figured out so I can fix it when I'm putting them in. Thanks!
 
Setting dash gauge pointers after they have been removed to install white face gauges.

The middle mark on the dash voltmeter is 14 volts. Use a DVM across the battery with the engine idling and use that reading to help set the
dash voltmeter needle accordingly.

The oil pressure sender is on the front of the engine near the oil filter. Make sure it is connected. It has a single wire that pushes down
on the screw on top of the sender housing. The middle mark on the oil pressure gauge is 50 PSI. If you had a mechanical gauge tee'd
into the pressure fitting for the dashboard gauge, you could use it to set the dashboard gauge.

The water temp sender is located in the driver side front of the intake manifold. Make sure it is connected. It has a single wire that pushes
down on the screw on top of the sender housing. The middle mark on the dash gauge is supposed to be about 200 degrees. If you had
access to a handheld infrared spot thermometer, you could use it to set the gauge. Open the radiator cap on a warm engine and aim the
red beam at the coolant. Or if you have a cooking thermometer, you could open the radiator cap on a warm engine and immerse the
thermometer in the coolant and use that reading to help set the gauge.

The gas gauge will require a little more work. Siphon the tank dry as possible. Use the fuel pump and a hose connected to the schrader
valve on the fuel pressure feed line to pump the tank dry. CAUTION!!! Do not run the pump for more that a few seconds once the fuel
quits coming out of the line connected to the schrader valve. If you let it run too long you could damage the pump. The gasoline cools
and lubricates the pump,

To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the upper RH corner to ground.
attachment.php
.

The tank holds 15.4 gallons, so put exactly 7.7 gallons back in the tank. Turn the ignition switch to run, and pull the pointer off the
gas gauge. Stick the pointer back on with it lined up with the half way mark.
 
Setting dash gauge pointers after they have been removed to install white face gauges.

The middle mark on the dash voltmeter is 14 volts. Use a DVM across the battery with the engine idling and use that reading to help set the
dash voltmeter needle accordingly.

The oil pressure sender is on the front of the engine near the oil filter. Make sure it is connected. It has a single wire that pushes down
on the screw on top of the sender housing. The middle mark on the oil pressure gauge is 50 PSI. If you had a mechanical gauge tee'd
into the pressure fitting for the dashboard gauge, you could use it to set the dashboard gauge.

The water temp sender is located in the driver side front of the intake manifold. Make sure it is connected. It has a single wire that pushes
down on the screw on top of the sender housing. The middle mark on the dash gauge is supposed to be about 200 degrees. If you had
access to a handheld infrared spot thermometer, you could use it to set the gauge. Open the radiator cap on a warm engine and aim the
red beam at the coolant. Or if you have a cooking thermometer, you could open the radiator cap on a warm engine and immerse the
thermometer in the coolant and use that reading to help set the gauge.

The gas gauge will require a little more work. Siphon the tank dry as possible. Use the fuel pump and a hose connected to the schrader
valve on the fuel pressure feed line to pump the tank dry. CAUTION!!! Do not run the pump for more that a few seconds once the fuel
quits coming out of the line connected to the schrader valve. If you let it run too long you could damage the pump. The gasoline cools
and lubricates the pump,

To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the upper RH corner to ground.
attachment.php
.

The tank holds 15.4 gallons, so put exactly 7.7 gallons back in the tank. Turn the ignition switch to run, and pull the pointer off the
gas gauge. Stick the pointer back on with it lined up with the half way mark.


hmm 15.4 galons huh? i put 15.1 on a week ago lol..i was close to runnin gon fummes.

okk try this...thanks.
 
Not to contradict ya', JRichker, but wouldn't it be easier just to fill the tank up completely and then set the gauge needle to the top "Full" mark, instead? That way, at least you could err on the side of safety in that your needle would read near "Empty" when in fact you still have a fair amount of reserve left to get you to the gas station...? :shrug:

As far as the voltmeter ... screw it. Get an aftermarket gauge and fugeddaboutit. The stocker on my notch was always WAY off on voltage compared to anything else I hooked up to it (it usually read about 2 volts low, and would fluctuate sometimes up or down for no good reason at all). The amp gauge on my '86 GT is utterly worthless, as it reads dead-center all of the time - I'd rather have a voltage reading than an ammeter, anyway. A good mini triple-gauge set with water/oil/volt usually runs around $35. Mount that somewhere handy, or invest in a two- or three-hole A-piller gauge pod and plug in some standard-sized gauges, and never worry about it again. (FWIW, my triple-gauge set is going in place of the non-existent radio with a simple fabbed-up sheetmetal panel. Simplicity rules. :nice: )
 
Not to contradict ya', JRichker, but wouldn't it be easier just to fill the tank up completely and then set the gauge needle to the top "Full" mark, instead? That way, at least you could err on the side of safety in that your needle would read near "Empty" when in fact you still have a fair amount of reserve left to get you to the gas station...? :shrug:



thats what i did...every time i turn the car on and off it gets more off.
 
you know it was at half when you ran out If you filled the tank all the way up you need to just aim it at the F

The volt gauge can be adjusted also.

Easy way is take cover off gauges and turn key off adjust needles and turn key on check position and adjust as needed until its where you wanted it.

When I did the gauges in my vert I intentionally put the needle lower than what it really had so I wouldnt ever run out.


My fuel gauge shows 1/2 full when the tank is full. My voltage shows low also. I will try this and see what happens.