Well, here's how far I am with the EFI swap.

88 Fox GT

Active Member
Nov 18, 2002
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Iowa
The engine and tranny are in, clutch/brake pedals installed, clutch cable installed. All I need to make it run are the wiring harness (2-3 more weeks until I get that) and the fuel system. I'm getting antsey! lol
Here are some pics of the night I was installing the clutch cable and pedals.

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Here is a pic of the under side.

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lookin good bro, but since you still have a couple weeks before you get the harness why not pull the engine again and paint/detail it. i think you would find it very rewarding especially when you open the hood for everyone to see your efi conversion. just a suggestion
 
Looks good. Couple of Q's

What kit did you use for the cable clutch, where is the cable exiting on the firewall and what did you have to do to the pedal. As for brakes are you able to fit a brake booster in there with your clutch cable set up? If so did you put one in and what did you use? Finally, why did you stay with the v-belt instead of going serp?

Thanks,

Mario
 
bnickel, I didn't paint the engine in the first place because after it's running perfectly and I can drive it, I will pull the engine and rebuid/paint it. I want to know everything is going to work correctly first then rebuild the engine later.

86T-Top, I used the Ron Morris Performance clutch cable.
http://www.ronmorrisperformance.com/

I don't have a brake booster, I've got the stock manual brakes.

Since my car was an automatic I thought I would have to cut a hole for the cable to go through. Not true. From the factory they have a little "cap" over the hole. Just popped that out and there's the hole. The hole where the cable runs is under the master cylinder and to the left just a little bit.

I had to do nothing to the pedal, just install a new bracket on it and a new bracket where the pedal return spring used to be (hence the reason the speedometer is out).

I used the V-belt, because I am only running the alternator and the water on the pulley system. So, I figured it would be pointless to run a large sepentine system with 80% of the pullies being "dead" pulleys. I also didn't want to fork out the cash to get a serpentine setup from March pullies either. So I used a good old V-belt.
 
Sounds familiar..

All I have left is the ignition/solenoid wiring, fuel sender/pump setup, throttle cable/pedal, VSS wiring and locating a pulley for my alternator...and I'll be running. I need to locate or get a new cable for my digital camera so I can snap a few pics.

I modified the 92 harness I had for the wiring, so I'm at about 80% complete.
 
Thats cool thanks for the info. Do you think this is enough room for a booster in there? My car was an auto also but it currently has a T5 in it and I am trying to figure out what clutch cable kit to use. Since I also want to put power brakes on the thing.

Could you post a picture of the firewall with the mater cylinder and clutch cable.

Thanks
Mario
 
Another question. I'm starting to lean toward and EFI swap now, not to sure yet. I am real familar with the EEC-IV system since my daily driver is an 89 5.0, so I think I know what I need to know. But is there a good site to look at for this swap, with specific instructions on the wiring harness mods needed for the main harness and how to tie in the EEC Power relay to the existing system and all that good stuff. I think I can do it just by looking at my wiring diagrams, but I would like to read over a "procedure" to see if I am missing anything. I did a search but I just got the typical posts of you need the harness, sensors, etc.

Thanks,

Mario
 
86T-Top, actually the cable is under the master cylinder and to the right. Not the left. lol
Here are the pics I just snapped of it. Doesn't look like a brake booster would probably fit, but I know for a fact that there are manual trans 65s out there with power brakes.


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the new ronmorris cable is nice I wish it was out when I got mine so I didnt have to drill the hole in the firewall. I may switch some stuff out, either the headers or to a different set up because the hedman elites just dont work.
 
Looking good man, I love to see a work in progress. Looks awful familiar though hmmmm......here's mine.

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Sorry for the size but these are downsized from the ones on my hd and they're all less than 100k for the dialup guys. Not trying to hijack, just thought pictures might explain better for the guys with questions about the setup.

Here's the existing master cylinder used with a mustangsteve booster and firewall brace for the adjuster.

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The 5speed swap was the BEST thing I ever did to my car. I wasn't cool enough to go with a hardcore swap like an expensive richmond 6spd:drool: but this was so awesome after driving an auto for 3 years.

For the guy with the Q about the clutch pedal, here's mustangsteves clutch pedal mod. He welds a quadrant to the top of it (trapezoid looking thing) and uses the stock cable from any late model Fox mustang. It is SO effortless, I love it.

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This was the end result minus the plastic bezel around the shift boot. I was looking at the late model bullitt trim ring before my car was hit.

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This is what she looks like now.

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So the efi 91 5.0 I had just bought is gonna sit for a little while longer. I'm gonna have to learn bodywork now as I'm gonna have to repair this myself.

Back on topic though, looks like the swap is going great Speed, make sure you make some vids for us. Was that a 12 second car the engine came out of? And I think the shift boot from the sn95s fits out cars perfectly. And to anyone with doubts about the reach, unless you're 5' 2" don't worry. The long reach thing is way over exagerrated. i'm looking forward to seeing more pics man, good work. :nice:
 
I'm not positive. It's either a 70's maverick or an 80's four cylinder mustang. I thought it would make no difference on 4 whl drums but the stopping difference is night and day.
I thought I had put on disc brakes the first time I drove it.