On the CarDomain car, what's the point of those super long intake runners with a twin turbo and a 427? I would think you'd want to do all you could to cut down the low end torque.
On the gas mileage issue, I thought that a turbo was the BEST solution for balancing power output with fuel economy. That is, the big air flow/fuel flow is only there when you tip in the throttle. At cruise, boost is nominal. This is in comparison to any other form of supercharging, or of NA carbed engines of equivalent output.
On the sway bar issue, I wonder if you could not fab a rear-mounted sway bar. All you need is a transverse bar with a couple mounting points, and a couple lever pieces which could clamp on or be welded to the transverse bar.
Evaluating 10 Second's kit from the point of view of a fairly ignorant buyer, it looks like, in addition to the $2900 for the blower, BOV, wastegate, exhaust, and cold side ductwork, I also will need a hat ($140-$200), a blow through carb $600?), an Aeromotive fuel pump ($200?), some exhaust tailpipe work ($200?), a return fuel line ($100?), a serious electric fan ($200?), and in most cases an upgraded radiator ($400). That's about another $2000.
So now we're at $4900 minimum.
Because boost is so good at overcoming intake deficiencies, I might not need a new intake or heads or a cam, but if I'm running a 289 or 302 with iron heads, or even with the typical 165 cc AFR's, and also with a dual plane intake and a mild NA spec cam, to optimize the combo I should probably dump another $2500 into upgrades here (minus $1000 for the value of the takeoffs).
So now the $2900 kit is a $6400 kit.
And unless I build a new shortblock, the eBay ad tells me it might split my block or melt my cast pistons! Add another $2000 for a suitably beefy shortblock. $8400.
Now that kind of money can buy you a really nice crate engine, including EFI and a Procharger or the like. Or if you're into drag racing only, you could go for a junkyard 460 ci 385 series and some FRPP/Kaase Cobra Jet heads and pop out 700 hp that way. And with either the blown Windsor or the big block you can run AC and PS. I don't know about the sway bar with the big block, but it's no problem with the Windsor.
Also, whenever you're stepping up to this level, you're going to need a 9" and a built C4 or C6. Or if you're in the stick shift realm, a 4-spd toploader will hang, but that 3-spd or T-5 has got to go. So there's another $3000-$4000.
$11,400-$12,400 for the maxed shortblock setup, $9,400-$10,400 for the OE cast crank and pistons.
Having said all that, it's still an attractive package. For $2000, 10 Seconds kit would fly off the shelves. At $2000, it's a "what the hell" deal. It's that extra $1000 that, the way I feel about it anyway, that lifts it to a higher level and has me wondering about the alternatives.