What are the tried and true best options for trunk sound deadening?

Discussion in 'Mustang Sound & Shine All' started by greyfrankenstang, Jan 18, 2013.

  1. I have been contemplating sound "proofing" (more like rattle proofing) my trunk for about 4 years now, and just haven't gotten around to it. I've heard of a few methods such as gap filling foam, dynamat, tsunami, to even more strange options such as peel n seal roofing material from Lowe's. I would like to know what methods have been used that yielded the best results. As for what kind of rattling power i have to subdue, i currently have 2 Rockford Fosgate P3 Punch 12" sub woofers in my trunk, but plan on doing a rear seat delete next weekend and mounting both subs in the backboard, facing inward towards the cab. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Ill try to post pics if y'all are interested.
  2. In my last car I had a couple JL audio 12's and I did the whole trunk with dynamat. I had zero rattles and it also dramatically increased the potency of the bass ranges ( highs, mids, lows). I say dynamat wins hands down. Stuff is awesome. It's heavy though. Keep that in min if you're worried about et's.
  3. How think is that dynamat? I hard its like 2-3 inches.
  4. As for the seat delete, that never happened.. Did flip the subs though, just gotta drop the seats and it sounds nice.
  5. The only dynamat ive ever seen was 1/8 in thick or a 1/4 at the most
  6. I did my 88 with the same idea as the "peel and seal". It was 35$ and 9lbs total weight for 25 square feet. That did everything pictured. I am about to order another roll. This was purchased off of ebay and is 3ft wide where peel and seal is about 6" wide. I rolled it on and heated it with a heat gun to smooth it out. Rolled it when warm. Doesn't stink, looks good. Made a huge difference.

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  7. I was just reading about this stuff and watching before and after peel & seal youtube videos last week. It seems to work well for people.
  8. I was thinking about trying this. When i was in Lowe's the other month, i asked an employee where it would be located. When he looked it up in the system, he laughed, bc the only review was for how good of a sound deadener it was. I might try this... Now, to find someone with a heat gun.....
  9. Order one off of ebay. I paid like 19.00 for mine and it works awesome. It is a Porter Cable I think.
  10. Dynamat wins for me. Wrapping up the dynamat project in my 96 Cobra as we speak. This car is going to have quite a bit but I went with their lighter dynamat over the whole car vs the traditional dynamat they have. Here are some pictures:


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  11. Honestly ive been the Car audio game for 3=years... DON'T USE DYNOMAT... yeah its ok, decent.. it'll get the job done but you'll use a lot of it.... Look up "Second Skin Audio" on Google and use their product called Damplifier .. TRUST ME ON THIS ONE... i used to use dynomat to deaden sound to hear two 15 6000watt rms subs and they didnt do jack... moment i switched over to Second Skin ... x100 HUGE improvement :)
  12. FatMat and AlphaDamp are also solid options. I use SecondSkin on all my vehicles, but it's pricey for what it is.
  13. You don't have to use a ton of Dyno Matt and if your not a competition Audio guy its fine do your trunk I did the spare tire area cuz I don't have a spare. Just remember to cut some 4" wide by 6" long pieces and reach back into the rear fender wells and put a couple pieces in there it will help out a lot. Also if you have good speakers in your door slap the same size pieces up inside the door as well. ok make sure you line the top of the trunk lid in the small cut out looking areas and on the trunk deck once again small pieces and I actually lined the back of my license plate too.
    I run 2 12" polk audios in a custom box and it sounds great inside and not a lot of outside noise.