what heads cam. . .

JungleJoe

I was like well chit..Im missing something
Jul 25, 2011
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Mo.
Ok, figure I would give you guys something to think about. I have been on the LS1 bandwagon for awhile( dont bash me to much,LOL) but back in the saddle once again. Fixing to buy me some heads and a cam. Just a street car, has ac,70mm TB,edelbrock intake,stock injectors,pullies, 1 5/8 bbk shorties.bbk x-pipe, supper 44's cat back with 2 1/2 tails pipes, 373's, tko trans.....
Whats a good set of heads and cam to get? Only want ing to do this one time. . . THANKS for the opinions...:nice:
 
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if your looking for a good quality trouble free setup, i would recommend the trick flow kit. comes with intake,heads,cam, all gaskets,correct pushrods,double roller timing chain,rocker arms,valve covers,lifters. good for a reliable everyday driving 360hp
 
Just want about 350-400 or so Hp. Its not a drag car by any means, its only got 56K original miles. Just want it to run as good as it sounds.
NO nitrous! I might add a vortec to it next year,S trim. Or if I can find a good deal on one, I will by it now.
I figure If I add some good heads, a cam, might be all I want out of it for a everyday driver with ac and cruise.
 
If you mean at the crank, that's no problem for a streetable 302. AFR165s, AFR185s, TFS Twisted Wedge heads will all get you there and lighten up the front end at the same time. You should decide whether you'll add the blower now, though. Because deciding that is going to change the compression of your motor and your cam selection.

A 10:1 compression motor with AFR165 heads and an RPM, RPM II, or Systemax I or II, ported performer, Cobra, GT40, and a couple other intakes will put you right in that range. If you want that kind of power at the tire and it remains a naturally aspirated street car, you'll have to add a stroker kit to the plans. The thing is, I consider going with a stroker and blower on a stock block a bit of a waste. A good blower on top of a well chosen H/C/I combination will put out enough power to split the block with only 302 cubes. Thus, you don't need to spend the extra grand or two on a stroker kit to make as much power as the block can take anyway.
 
Very good point Fast Driver! I appreciate your time! So, with that being said,I'll cancell the blower on this motor until I get enough funds to (If I even do that) to build a blown stroker .
Going to order the heads today, which ones? Or should I just order the whole trickflow package and be done with the guess work . I noticed there is 2 kits, one with 360 hp and one with 350hp.But the one has 20 more pounds of TQ.
I have a 70mm TB,Edelbrock intake( NOT the the rpm) pullies,full exaust,gears,stock injectors,or I should say what appear to be stock ones..
 
I think you missed my point. Why build a stroker, if you plan to run a supercharger. The limit is going to be block strength, and you'll be able to split the block with a 302 and H/C/I.

My recommendation is the 190cc fast as cast Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads. You shouldn't have to flycut the pistons, and they're very flexible heads. They'd be just fine on a 347 stroker if you do go that route. They should make great power on a 302, as well. AFR 165s are another good choice that will net you more than 300 at the wheels, potentially. AFR 185s would work well, but the pistons must be flycut.
 
i like the 303 series cams, and gt-40 alu. heads, cobra intake, mine and my dads stangs with this combo w/ s-trim run 10.8 --10.9 in 1/4. in my 87 gt and dads 89 gt..

The letter cams are ancient and use obsolete lobe profiles. Not saying you can't go fast with them, but there are definitely better options out there for cams these days.
 
well, I just got back from a road trip..... went and bought a new B303 and a set of new Holley heads that has new 1.6 rockers, got them for a great price! So I'm going to give this a shot and see what happens. Anyone know what pushrods i need to get or can i use the stock ones?
I'm using this with a 70 mm TB and a Edelbrock performer Intake. Should I get 24# injectors or just use the stock 19's?
 
I think you missed my point. Why build a stroker, if you plan to run a supercharger. The limit is going to be block strength, and you'll be able to split the block with a 302 and H/C/I.


There are a couple of advantages to adding the cubes along with the blower. For instance one would pick up a lot of much needed torque and horsepower in the lower regions with a lot less effort.

I'd rather run a torque friendly stroker, that requires little boost to make block splitting cabable power yet promote a more drivable torque curve and durable daily driven power, than a high strung, stock displacement 302 with a hard spunt blower huffer.

That engine would be a lot more forgiving with engine timing and fuel requirements...not to mention head gaskets as well. :shrug:
 
There are a couple of advantages to adding the cubes along with the blower. For instance one would pick up a lot of much needed torque and horsepower in the lower regions with a lot less effort.

I'd rather run a torque friendly stroker, that requires little boost to make block splitting cabable power yet promote a more drivable torque curve and durable daily driven power, than a high strung, stock displacement 302 with a hard spunt blower huffer.

That engine would be a lot more forgiving with engine timing and fuel requirements...not to mention head gaskets as well. :shrug:

Yea, but, why drop $2K on building a stroker that's just going to break at the same HP level that a stock junkyard bottom end will? I think that's the point he's trying to make.
 
I replied to your PM before I saw this thread again. What Holley heads did you get, ped mount or stud? 2.02" intake or 1.94", What cc chamber are they? I have a lot of expierence with the Holleys, and how to fix them... I had the Holley kit many years ago, went 11.7 @ 116mph all motor 8.8:1 comp.

Pushrods ALWAYS need to be measured, the deck height of the block, gasket thickness and deck of the heads are all over the place. The B303 is truly a carb cam, real obsoleted lobe profile sounds good but lacks true power production, it wouldnt have been my choice that is for sure. I would upgrade injectors and MAF...
 
Yea, but, why drop $2K on building a stroker that's just going to break at the same HP level that a stock junkyard bottom end will? I think that's the point he's trying to make.

Like I said....larger horsepower and torque production earlier in the power band and easier on parts on the way to said failure point.

Just because one can make enough power to split the block with the stock bottom end, doesn't mean one has to, or that it's the best way to do it. RPM is what's really the big killer here, so if he's able to make more power and torque, throughout the curve with less RPM, and less stress on the components, then his block is likely to survive longer as well.

I will admit though, since he does have such a low mileage example, it's probably not feasible for him to tear into the bottom end at this point. But for guys like me, who's engine are getting up there in miles and could use a freshening up, it really doesn't make sense anymore to rebuild an engine with stock parts. Quality stroker kits can be had for under $900 now a days. Heck, you'll spend more than half that amount on a standard rebuild. Why not enjoy the additional benefits of added displacement while you're at it for just a little bit more?