What kinda HP numbers

wlink1

Banned
Apr 12, 2007
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Winston Salem
Stock 302 Block
GT40P heads with just a 3 degree valve grind
1.6 roller rockers
E303 Cam or similar
Explorer Intake
BBK 75mm trhottle body with TF elbow
Underdrive Pullies
Off road H-pipe
Shorties
40 series flows
15 degree timing adv.


Just trying to see what kinda HP numbers and possible 1/4th mile with AODE and 3.73's Vert.

Would I need to upgrade Fuel as well with these mods? Bigger injectors and fuel pump? Bigger MAF?
 
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15.01 was with
Explorer Intake
BBK 75mm trhottle body with TF elbow
Underdrive Pullies
Off road H-pipe
40 series flows

No timing advance 87 octane and a bad harmonic balancer.

Which is the best way I have heard that a vert will run faster time with the top down?
 
15.01 was with
Explorer Intake
BBK 75mm trhottle body with TF elbow
Underdrive Pullies
Off road H-pipe
40 series flows

No timing advance 87 octane and a bad harmonic balancer.

Which is the best way I have heard that a vert will run faster time with the top down?

15.01 with those mods :eek: Im not 100% sure but i think running it with the top down would cuase drag and actualy slow it down
 
15.01 was with
Explorer Intake
BBK 75mm trhottle body with TF elbow
Underdrive Pullies
Off road H-pipe
40 series flows

No timing advance 87 octane and a bad harmonic balancer.

Which is the best way I have heard that a vert will run faster time with the top down?

That is extremely not true. Run the car with the top up. Just think about aerodynamics. Furthermore, I don't think they will let you run it with the top down anyway. It's possible you may break 14 seconds; some tracks stick to the 13.99 second rule where convertibles have to have roll bars. Some places are 13.50, you may want to look into what the deal is.

Full length welded in subframes would be a great mod for you at this stage of the game, and they are cheap dough.

Adam
 
That is extremely not true. Run the car with the top up. Just think about aerodynamics. Furthermore, I don't think they will let you run it with the top down anyway. It's possible you may break 14 seconds; some tracks stick to the 13.99 second rule where convertibles have to have roll bars. Some places are 13.50, you may want to look into what the deal is.

Full length welded in subframes would be a great mod for you at this stage of the game, and they are cheap dough.

Adam

That was my thoughts but a few people I had asked said it made a difference, may look into subframe connectors
 
Stock 302 Block
GT40P heads with just a 3 degree valve grind
1.6 roller rockers
E303 Cam or similar
Explorer Intake
BBK 75mm trhottle body with TF elbow
Underdrive Pullies
Off road H-pipe
Shorties
40 series flows
15 degree timing adv.


Just trying to see what kinda HP numbers and possible 1/4th mile with AODE and 3.73's Vert.

Would I need to upgrade Fuel as well with these mods? Bigger injectors and fuel pump? Bigger MAF?

Did the 15.01 come from the GTech?

Did you weigh your car? The Gtech needs the weight to be spot on to get good numbers. Here's a link to what my 'vert weighed (3,580lb w/ 3/4 tank of gas), should be fairly close to yours, I was similar to your mods with leather seats and Mach 460 when that weight was taken.

I think a 13.9X second run should be well doable with that combo.

Adam is right on with the subframes. :nice:

The roll cage limit down here is 11.99 for 'verts, helmet no matter what time you run.

Wes
 
Did the 15.01 come from the GTech?

Did you weigh your car? The Gtech needs the weight to be spot on to get good numbers. Here's a link to what my 'vert weighed (3,580lb w/ 3/4 tank of gas), should be fairly close to yours, I was similar to your mods with leather seats and Mach 460 when that weight was taken.

I think a 13.9X second run should be well doable with that combo.

Adam is right on with the subframes. :nice:

The roll cage limit down here is 11.99 for 'verts, helmet no matter what time you run.

Wes

Yeah 15.01 with the gtech at 3700 lbs just guessed. Was yours weighed with you in the car? Is the E cam going to work good with this setup? Also think I am going to a lightning mass and 24lb injectors? So 13.9X after all these mods are completed? I can be happy with that would like to get to down to 13.7x as there is a buddy of mine with a civic all motor K20 running 13.80, would just like to outrun him for know and then get into the 12's. But he also has 5k in an engine swap and upgrades and I will have less than $4250 in my entire car with upgrades.

Thanks for the input
 
I was not in the car when it was weighed. If there are truckstops around your area, you can go there to get the car weighed - some have more accurate scales than others, I think the scale I weighed on was accurate to 10 pounds.

Your MAF is fine with those mods, the 19lb injectors *should* be good as well, maybe someone can chip in to say for sure if they were hitting the limit of their injectors - I would think that they are good.

You've got the parts together, sounds like you may just need some seat time at a real track to see what the car is actually running. A good launch off some drag radials would do a lot to get you to the 13s. Might be time to do some maintenance if it hasn't been done in a while, check for vacuum leaks, clean the MAF and whatnot.

To beat your buddy with the K20, you are going to have to smoke him off the launch, I guarantee he is pulling hard up top if he is running 13.80's. I built a turbo'd B16C motor with a friend over the spring -- even with the turbo "off" (wastegate open), the car was slow down low but would pull much stronger up top as VTECH kicked in. Those motors are all topend because they spin them to the moon (8-9k on his with built internals).

Wes
 
I was not in the car when it was weighed. If there are truckstops around your area, you can go there to get the car weighed - some have more accurate scales than others, I think the scale I weighed on was accurate to 10 pounds.

Your MAF is fine with those mods, the 19lb injectors *should* be good as well, maybe someone can chip in to say for sure if they were hitting the limit of their injectors - I would think that they are good.

You've got the parts together, sounds like you may just need some seat time at a real track to see what the car is actually running. A good launch off some drag radials would do a lot to get you to the 13s. Might be time to do some maintenance if it hasn't been done in a while, check for vacuum leaks, clean the MAF and whatnot.

To beat your buddy with the K20, you are going to have to smoke him off the launch, I guarantee he is pulling hard up top if he is running 13.80's. I built a turbo'd B16C motor with a friend over the spring -- even with the turbo "off" (wastegate open), the car was slow down low but would pull much stronger up top as VTECH kicked in. Those motors are all topend because they spin them to the moon (8-9k on his with built internals).

Wes

Yeah he is running 250.4 fwp and 200 ftlbs tq
 
Because most GT40p heads are used, the prices vary quite a bit.

When I was looking that route, $300 shipped was about the norm for a set that was either machine shop fresh or very lightly used.

With any used head, I would drop it by the machine shop to have them check the flatness of the head surfaces and valve guides etc.

Wes
 
Because most GT40p heads are used, the prices vary quite a bit.

When I was looking that route, $300 shipped was about the norm for a set that was either machine shop fresh or very lightly used.

With any used head, I would drop it by the machine shop to have them check the flatness of the head surfaces and valve guides etc.

Wes

Thanks, yeah the guy was asking $350/obo but he came down to $220 cash, I am going to try and get him down to $200 and then get surfaced and possibly performance valve grind He did say they need hot tanking so I am not sure what that cost.
 
Because most GT40p heads are used, the prices vary quite a bit.

When I was looking that route, $300 shipped was about the norm for a set that was either machine shop fresh or very lightly used.

With any used head, I would drop it by the machine shop to have them check the flatness of the head surfaces and valve guides etc.

Wes

Got the guy down to $175 on the P's

but I found a full ported set of E7 that the guy ran 12.9x on for $220

which would be best bet?
 
Got more info on the E7's, including what his combo was that went 12.9? If he had a supercharger then it's not that impressive of a # but if he was N/A then it is... make sense? :)

I kinda like the P's for the cost and the power potential, but the E7's had the plus of not needing different headers (if your shorties won't work with P's). I'd buy the P's just to resell if nothing else. :)

See what everyone else says. Like I said above, I was contemplating running a "better" stock head but ended up with a good deal on some aluminum heads after doing some looking around, the power potential, resale and weight savings got to me.

Wes
 
Got more info on the E7's, including what his combo was that went 12.9? If he had a supercharger then it's not that impressive of a # but if he was N/A then it is... make sense? :)

I kinda like the P's for the cost and the power potential, but the E7's had the plus of not needing different headers (if your shorties won't work with P's). I'd buy the P's just to resell if nothing else. :)

See what everyone else says. Like I said above, I was contemplating running a "better" stock head but ended up with a good deal on some aluminum heads after doing some looking around, the power potential, resale and weight savings got to me.

Wes

E7 89 vert 1.6rr, e cam, 3.73, drag radials, cobra intake, full exhaust
 
Pics of the E7
 

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