What needs to be done to my 5.0 to keep up with 11 5.0's

so i really have the itch to sell my 5.0 and get a new 2011 5.0..
but thay want a lot of cash for the new mustangs that i do not want to spend. so what kind of power would i have to make in my 88 5.0 to keep up with the new 5.0 stangs?

i want to be able to run high 12's on street tires (at sea level) and still have stock drivable.

if this is a goal that can be achieved then i will just keep the if not then i really thinking about getting the 2011.

would i need a stroker? turbo? just top end kit?

by the way my car runs high 15's in current trim. but thats here in new mexico on a crapppy track at over 5,200ft above the sea. if i had a better track at sea level i think she could run mid 14's
my mods are in my sig
 
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you're in abq too?

crazy...

The rule of 3 goes...
For a car to be:
Fast & Reliable it wont be Cheap
Cheap & Reliable it wont be Fast
Fast & Cheap it wont be Reliable


Up here I've just decided to be slow (Cheap and Reliable) and live with it for now.
 
i don't mind spending decent cash. i figure $5,000 is cheaper then $39,000.
it is not my only car ether i have 4 now. the fox is my weekend toy. so it does not have to be super reliable as i don't drive it ever day but i don't want a wreck ether.

adams: have you checked out rsw and truestreetcars.com
also check out a new ford club in abq "albuquerque fast fords"
Welcome to Facebookabq fast fords link

here is a photo of my ride:Welcome to Facebook
 
My buddy has a new 5.0 took it to a mustang dyno on saturday along with mine. He put down 366 RWHP and I put down 348 RWHP. We have been racing quiet a bit since then and every time we do I win. I have a 331, AFR 185's anderson cam, RPM II, 75mm throttle and a 95mm mass air. After he does a couple things there is no doubt that he will be right there with me. Almost every time we race I have around 3-4 car lengths at the end.
 
Driver mod. Those guys at Motor Trend know how to drive. Most Joe Schmos who buy 2011s won't have them in 12s on street tires.

Of course, there are guys out there running 12s on completely untouched (pushrod) 5.0s, just with drivetrain/suspension mods. Look at 25thMustang on here, his car has stock heads with a valve job and he runs 12.5s.

A GOOD H/C/I Fox will run mid 12s with just a little practice, and if you play your cards right can get you into the 11s.

motor trend ran 12.8 @110.8 with the factory tires then on a diffrent day motor trend ran a [email protected] on factory tires

road and track ran 13.2 at 109.3 on factory tires.

it takes slicks to run 10's (that and a h-pip, cat-back, new driveshaft, cold air,)

That car that went 10s also had wheels/skinnies on it and some dyno tweaking, and probably some other stuff I'm forgetting.
 
I think its gonna take more then 5k to keep up with a stock 11 GT, and by the time you get that done your gonna run into one that has some work done to it with someone who can drive and forget about it.

All of the little things add up money wise, but i think the cheapest way to go would be slicks a good H/C/I and a 175 hit of nitrous

EDIT: your gonna need more then high 12's

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=264647

if that guy got the 60' down he should be 11's pretty easy
 
Driver mod. Those guys at Motor Trend know how to drive. Most Joe Schmos who buy 2011s won't have them in 12s on street tires.

driver mod is a big deal all right.
muscle mustangs and fast fords ran a 12.5 in a bone stock 11 5.0
but i left that one out as the guys there are just sick drivers. not like most people.

i'm not looking to destroy them at the track i only go once or twice a year. i just don't want to be embarrassed if i get involved in a stoplight to stoplight race and i don't even do that that much.

i was going to redo the interer of my now 22 year old toy but
the 5.0 is starting to burn about a qt of oil a week now and with the 11's steeping up the game i will soon start saving for a built 331 with a good set of h/c/i/ then in a few years later if i want even more power i could slap on a turbo or a charger
 
driver mod is a big deal all right.
muscle mustangs and fast fords ran a 12.5 in a bone stock 11 5.0
but i left that one out as the guys there are just sick drivers. not like most people.

i'm not looking to destroy them at the track i only go once or twice a year. i just don't want to be embarrassed if i get involved in a stoplight to stoplight race and i don't even do that that much.

i was going to redo the interer of my now 22 year old toy but
the 5.0 is starting to burn about a qt of oil a week now and with the 11's steeping up the game i will soon start saving for a built 331 with a good set of h/c/i/ then in a few years later if i want even more power i could slap on a turbo or a charger

A good 331 with H/C/I can get you near the 400 range, DEPENDING on what parts the motor consist of. It it is starting to leak or burn oil, you might as well rebuild. Rebuild with an aftermarket block, Dart would be good. I wish I had, I can only run limited boost because I am to scared of splitting the stock block. Also, suspension is key to getting it to stick from down low to beat anyone out of the hole.
 
if your gonna start over skip the aftermarket block and 331 or 347 and just build a 351w based motor, NA, no headaches and will tool on your average 302 with a blower