What Oil Is Everyone Using?
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RandyStinchcomb
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VPStang said:
never had a problem, that engine was in the car for 5 years, had over 300 1/4 mile passes and my oil got changed @every 20/25 passes. use the same oil and additive in my 1996 F150 (80k) and 0 problems, so Im not sure where you got your info about additive packages. even here at the Ford dealership I work at, we use an additive package wth dino oil, synthetic blend and full synthetic oil and this is done all over.
STP kept my dad's old 1988 S-10 truck running for over 250,000 miles. The litte bugger had a hard time holding pressure after 150,000, and most of the fluid ended up being STP in with the oil.
billfisher
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todd4566
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Turbo92PGT
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Castrol syntec 5w-20 with motorcraft filter - usually every 2500 miles. I go more by the color than anything. When it gets brownish, i start thinkin about it lol.
i was told by a few people that if you switch to a fully synthetic, you CAN NOT switch back to mineral/standard oil. but all the info i can find about this says that they are interchangable, even mixable. however, they say that mixing them takes away all the synthetic benifits and possibly reduces longevity. any info on this matter??
(sorry, i cant spell for sh**)
(sorry, i cant spell for sh**)
Dark Knight GT
I can't get it up......ok that didn't sound right.
You can switch back and forth as much as you would prefer, though I don't see the point. Stick with one, and let that be your choice. As for mixing oils, that is something I would definately NOT do. Mixing regular oil with synthetic oil only reduces the effectiveness of the synthetic oil, though it's not as if it will hurt anything since all oils are petroleum compatible with one another. This is one of the regulations placed on Motor oil companies by API (American Petroleum Institue).GREYFOX4INCH said:
IMHO, if you're using regular oil with no problems, and have been for many miles, then I don't see any point in switching over to synthetic, since I don't see where it is going to benefit you. The main purpose of synthetics is to reduce wear, and preserve the life of the parts of the motor. Any excessive wear a motor may have recieved from using regular oil will not magically be reversed by switching to synthetics.
GREYFOX4INCH said:
These people who told you that are obviously misinformed. They are definately interchangable. The only way I would see that the benefits of running a fully synthetic oil would be negated would be if you were to run.. say, 2 quarts dino with 2 quarts fully synthetic. And even if that does negate some of the benefits, you'd still have that extra little bit of protection from what synthetic is still there.
As stated above, there'd be no reason to switch back to dino oil after running synthetic for a while.. unless that extra 2 bucks a quart is breaking your bank account or something.
BlueRuckus
New Member
I have 33,000 on the clock. What weight should I go with Synthetic?
I can't seem to find Amsoil at my local auto parts stores. Is there a good place to order it? Either Amsoil or Royal Purple.
I can't seem to find Amsoil at my local auto parts stores. Is there a good place to order it? Either Amsoil or Royal Purple.
blkstangman88
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- Apr 6, 2004
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Yes, thinnest oil you can run and still maintain pressure with. I'm not talking 5w30 vs 10w30, I'm talking 5w20 vs 5w30 vs 5w40.
Oil viscosity while cold is practically the same. Pour a 0w20 next to a 5w20 and tell me you can see a difference. I doubt it.
You don't get dry starts with thinner oil. You get faster oil circulation to the top of the engine. The quality of the oil you use is what protects you on cold starts. The oil itself adheres to the walls of the cylinders, and if it's all back in the pan after 2 days then you've got other problems.
Oil viscosity while cold is practically the same. Pour a 0w20 next to a 5w20 and tell me you can see a difference. I doubt it.
You don't get dry starts with thinner oil. You get faster oil circulation to the top of the engine. The quality of the oil you use is what protects you on cold starts. The oil itself adheres to the walls of the cylinders, and if it's all back in the pan after 2 days then you've got other problems.
Dark Knight GT
I can't get it up......ok that didn't sound right.
I just passed 30k miles on my 01 GT, and I use Amsoil full synthetic 5w-30 with an Amsoil oil filter. It works great. They do have one motor oil that is suppost to be better, and it has a 0w-30 weight, but is suppost to give a bit better wear protection. However, I honestly don't see where there is any benefit to running one over the other in applications like ours. It's your money, so it's your call. As for the best place to order Amsoil, directly from the Amsoil site would be best, and if you order ANYTHING Amsoil, you might as well sign up and become a preferred customer. I'm a preferred customer, and I've saved literally hundreds by being one in just the last year alone.BlueRuckus said:
If you don't want to go through the process of shipping, and you can get Royal Purple near you, then it would work fine as well. I believe Royal Purple recommends the K&N oil filter with their oils.
Dark Knight GT
I can't get it up......ok that didn't sound right.
If that were the case, then I guess since I let my car sit for a whole month without starting it, it should of ruined it when I started it. Funny, it started right up, and idled fine.blkstangman88 said:
Seriously, synthetic oils have better lubrication properties than regular dino oil. Not only that, but their flow rates tend to be better as well. As Sgarlic explained, there is a difference between weight on start up, and weight when the motor is at normal operating temperature. This is designated by the two numbers used to tell the viscosity of the oil . First number is the weight on start up, and the next is it's weight after it reaches normal operating temperature. As Sgarlic said, there is very little difference, if any in flow between two oils with the weight of "0" and "5" on start up.
40th GT
New Member
I'm a user of Mobil1 5w-20 and whenever I come across oil threads like these, it's full of speculation. People hear things that may not be legitamate and pass the info to others. I seriously don't think synthetics have much of an advantage over dino, engines wear out and it's a fact of life. Unless of course, you're comparing flash points and cold pour points, that's where you see an advantage in synthetics. But that's about it.Dark Knight GT said:
Me, I use Mobil1 because it gives me that extra peace of mind whenever I floor it. Something about man-made oil makes me feel better. I'm going to stick with it since it's what I've been using ever since the break-in oil came out and I'm not about to switch oil types.
DMAN302
My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.
I run dyno castrol in all my vehicles..the 88 with under 700miles on the new motor, the 04Gt with 7000miles, and the 04Aztec with 40,000miles..the viscosity for the Atec and the GT I use is what factory recomends..the 88 will grow up on 10w30. I change the oil every 5000km's on the new(er) cars and the 88 three times so far. For me the MOST important thing is #1 keep the oil clean and freash #2 use the best quality filter available..In my case I choose the K & N ...it's personal preference. I don't cheap out on maintenance simply because I've learned far too much about lack of maintenance in the first two yrs of owning the 88.
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