My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all
the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.
When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface. Also use the weather strip
adhesive on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. When you are done, the head surface and the gasket surface
that mate together will have weather strip adhesive on them. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets
tacky, press the gasket down on the head.
Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the
same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.
Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it
together. Bingo! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.
If you reuse the injectors from your old setup, a repair kit is available from most auto parts stores if needed. Coat the
injector body "O" rings with oil before you use them and everything will slide back together. Take the other advice you got
here and run with it.
Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost
is about $2.74 per kit. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site (
http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being
resellers of Borg-Warner parts:
http://www.partsplus.com/ or
http://www.autovalue.com/ or
http://www.pepboys.com/ or
http://www.federatedautoparts.com/
Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.
Use motor oil on the O rings when you re-assemble them & everything will slide into place. The gasoline will wash away any
excess oil that gets in the wrong places and it will burn up in the combustion chamber.
