What Should I Use
- Thread starter 89llx
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Intake manifold installation tips:
Whatever you do, don't skimp on cleaning the gasket surfaces. New gaskets need to seat against bare metal and not the residue left from the old gaskets in order to seal leak free. This is the most time consuming and tiresome part of the job. Put a piece of cardboard in the lifter valley to cover it up. It will reduce the amount that falls down into the valley and hydraulic lifters. I suggest that you make good use of a shop vac while you are scraping and cleaning to avoid getting the old gasket material lost inside the engine. Look for little things that need to be replaced like the short hose from the thermostat hosing to the water pump, damaged vacuum lines and hose clamps that are rusted or broken.
Plan on cutting the thermostat to water pump hose, or removing the thermostat housing. Also plan on removing the distributor to get clearance to remove the intake manifold. Remove #1 spark plug, stick your finger in the spark plug hole and crank. When your finger gets air moving past it, stop cranking. Turn the engine until the timing marks line up with the pointer. Now you can pull the distributor out. Put a rag in the hole where the distributor was; this will prevent things from falling into the engine.
My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.
When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface. Also use the weather strip adhesive on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. When you are done, the head surface and the gasket surface that mate together will have weather strip adhesive on them. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.
Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.
Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Bingo! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.
If you reuse the injectors from your old setup, a repair kit is available from most auto parts stores if needed. Coat the injector body "O" rings with oil before you use them and everything will slide back together.
Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $3.50 - $4.00 per kit. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:
http://www.partsplus.com/ or http://www.autovalue.com/ or http://www.pepboys.com/ or http://www.federatedautoparts.com/
Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.
Use motor oil on the O rings when you re-assemble them & everything will slide into place. The gasoline will wash away any excess oil that gets in the wrong places and it will burn up in the combustion chamber.
Intake manifold to head bolts
--Step 1 96 in/lbs
--Step 2 16ft/lbs
--Step 3 23-25 ft/lbs
Whatever you do, don't skimp on cleaning the gasket surfaces. New gaskets need to seat against bare metal and not the residue left from the old gaskets in order to seal leak free. This is the most time consuming and tiresome part of the job. Put a piece of cardboard in the lifter valley to cover it up. It will reduce the amount that falls down into the valley and hydraulic lifters. I suggest that you make good use of a shop vac while you are scraping and cleaning to avoid getting the old gasket material lost inside the engine. Look for little things that need to be replaced like the short hose from the thermostat hosing to the water pump, damaged vacuum lines and hose clamps that are rusted or broken.
Plan on cutting the thermostat to water pump hose, or removing the thermostat housing. Also plan on removing the distributor to get clearance to remove the intake manifold. Remove #1 spark plug, stick your finger in the spark plug hole and crank. When your finger gets air moving past it, stop cranking. Turn the engine until the timing marks line up with the pointer. Now you can pull the distributor out. Put a rag in the hole where the distributor was; this will prevent things from falling into the engine.
My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.
When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface. Also use the weather strip adhesive on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. When you are done, the head surface and the gasket surface that mate together will have weather strip adhesive on them. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.
Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.
Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Bingo! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.
If you reuse the injectors from your old setup, a repair kit is available from most auto parts stores if needed. Coat the injector body "O" rings with oil before you use them and everything will slide back together.
Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $3.50 - $4.00 per kit. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:
http://www.partsplus.com/ or http://www.autovalue.com/ or http://www.pepboys.com/ or http://www.federatedautoparts.com/
Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.
Use motor oil on the O rings when you re-assemble them & everything will slide into place. The gasoline will wash away any excess oil that gets in the wrong places and it will burn up in the combustion chamber.
Intake manifold to head bolts
--Step 1 96 in/lbs
--Step 2 16ft/lbs
--Step 3 23-25 ft/lbs
I use the Cork ends with Silicone. Never had a leak in a dozen or so installs.
The key is setting the intake down properly. What i did was buy two long 6-8" bolts that thread into the block, and cut the heads off. Thread two into the opposite corners and use them as a guide when setting the intake down. Lower the intake straight down on the bolts, and then install the intake bolts. NOT wiggling the intake around trying to line everything else makes a difference
The key is setting the intake down properly. What i did was buy two long 6-8" bolts that thread into the block, and cut the heads off. Thread two into the opposite corners and use them as a guide when setting the intake down. Lower the intake straight down on the bolts, and then install the intake bolts. NOT wiggling the intake around trying to line everything else makes a difference
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Throw away the cork gaskets and lay a nice fat bead of Right Stuff down. Let it cure and set it and forget it.
I've done both. I prefer to keep the cork gaskets because of the blower. I use the cork as the skeleton for the bead of 'Right Stuff' I put down.
Regardless of which method you prefer, there is no joking about the sealant. It's perfectly named and comes in what looks like a Cheeze Whiz can.
Pricey and worth every penny.
Regardless of which method you prefer, there is no joking about the sealant. It's perfectly named and comes in what looks like a Cheeze Whiz can.
Pricey and worth every penny.
Micheal Nadeau
Active Member
$20 for that "can" is worth every dime. I am a technician by trade. Any time I need a sealant, that's the first place I go. When I pulled my intake to replace my heads gaskets, I used it when I set the intake.
If you can not find "right stuff", yellow 3m weatherstrip adhesive will hold any cork or rubber gasket to your clean metal surface longer than the car will last. Especially with that MEK surface prep step. On one manifold, I glued the end strips down, used it around the water ports on one side of the intake gaskets to hold them in place, and used RTV for the other side, and it never leaked. I am glad, because "yellow death" glue is not fun to remove!
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