What should my engine temp and oil pressure be?

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by 19stang66, Jul 1, 2006.


  1. Max Power

    Max Power New Member

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    Watter Wetter works better with straight water than with coolant, and I have never seen anything close to a 30 degree drop. More like 5-10 degrees, less when run with coolant. In climates where coolant is necessary, it's benefits are minimal.

    I have always heard "recoring" as being a core replacement, and rodding the radiator as cleaning the core. YMMV....
  2. 67topless

    67topless Member

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    I would say I saw a max of a 5 degree drop... maybe even a tad less. I also am using a dex coolant as well.
  3. D.Hearne

    D.Hearne Banned

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    Recoring is having the top and bottom tanks soldered to a new core.The tanks and core are brass, not copper. Rodding is where they remove on or the other tank and run a rod thru the cores to remove the crud build up. Sometimes it's cheaper to recore, sometimes it cheaper to buy a new radiator. Shop around.
  4. 19stang66

    19stang66 Member

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    Ok I got a new clutch today and it is a lot bigger than my old one and the shaft is shorter so i'm in need of a spacer. But I got the shroud not to rub anymore! Now to see if this helps, it's worth a try. I'll post pics later.
  5. grego37

    grego37 New Member

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    THE SHROUD WILL DO NO GOOD FOR YOUR PROBLEM

    THE FAN WILL DO NO GOOD FOR YOUR PROBLEM

    THE FAN CLUTCH WILL DO NO GOOD FOR YOUR PROBLEM

    RADIATOR,
    RADIATOR,
    RADIATOR
  6. 19stang66

    19stang66 Member

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    I know I know I know, but why cant I spend a few bucks first instead of cleaning out my wallet? I drove it tonight a couple of 15 min trips and it never reached above 200.
  7. 19stang66

    19stang66 Member

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    here are a few pics.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP!!!
  8. grego37

    grego37 New Member

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    good luck.
  9. Edbert

    Edbert Founding Member

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    I'd like to hear your opinion of how a new shroud and clutch dropped your temperatures at high speeds from 220 to under 200?
  10. 19stang66

    19stang66 Member

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    I wasnt on the highway, just a county road going about 60 at the most.
  11. hhead

    hhead Founding Member

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    hope this works. finding the real problem instead of shotgunning parts is the way to go. was it no/poor airflow that pointed you to the clutch? the shroud does help. a 10 -20 drop from the shroud wouldn't be unreasonable.
  12. 19stang66

    19stang66 Member

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    No, when my grandpa was over i was showing him my fan and he grabbed it and it moved back and forth a little bit. So when the engine is running the fan wobbled back and forth just enough to keep hitting the shroud. So I needed a new clutch anyways and now I need to get a spacer for it.
  13. jbuening

    jbuening Member

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    I know Grego already said some of this, but here's my understanding of the cooling system. A fan will only pull air through the radiator at speeds under roughly 30mph. Flex fans have blades that straighten out when the rpms get higher so you don't have the drag on the engine when the fan is not needed (i.e. highway speeds). If you are overheating in stop and go traffic or at slow speeds then it is a problem with your fan, lack of shroud, or hot air recirculating through the radiator from the engine compartment. If you are overheating on the highway then your radiator does not have enough surface area, is plugged, partially blocked fins, blockage in the motor, collapsing lower radiator hose, or faulty waterpump.

    I'm running a 351w (larger motor) with a larger cross flow radiator (19x28), electric fan, hi-flow Flow Kooler water pump, and a high flow 180° thermostat and my engine never gets above 190° even in stop and go traffic on 100°+ days. Your's should stay around 190° with the proper cooling system.

    On a few other side notes. You mention that you bought a new waterpump from NAPA. Are you sure it wasn't a reverse flow type waterpump? I highly doubt it but something to consider. You mentioned that you removed the cap and ran the motor but coolant gushed out everywhere. It shouldn't gush out everywhere unless it was overfilled or your waterpump is pushing in the wrong direction. Have you flushed the entire cooling system or just had the radiator rodded out? The engine could be partially corroded and plugged and could be needing a flush. Hope this helps a little bit.

    Oh and Grego, a fan shroud will help cool at higher speeds only because it prevents hot air from recirculating back through the radiator from the engine compartment. I agree with all of your other comments and suggestions though ;)
  14. 19stang66

    19stang66 Member

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    The coolant was just about to overfill out of the neck so I just put the cap back on quick. I just flushed it out with the garden hose about 5 times. There isnt any rust in the coolant anymore because it is staying green. I am betting the cores plugged pretty bad because it is still overheating. I'm taking her to a radiator shop tomorrow or am just going to get a new radiator. I'm going to the strip soon so I need to fix it right away.

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