What Valve Spring Tool To Use?

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by gnx547, Jun 15, 2013.


  1. gnx547

    gnx547 Member

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    I'm trying to remove the valve springs and I have a valve spring tool but it does not compress the top part of the spring so I can remove the keepers. I'm thinking the part that compresses on top of the valve spring should be flat like the one from Summit. Is this the right valve spring tool I'm using?
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    Or is this one from Summit the correct one to use?

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/li...FWJlMgodtmYAgg
  2. MFE92

    MFE92 Active Member

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    the one you're using is fine, just compress it more, and make sure there's something under the valve to keep it firmly in place while you do. If the retainer isn't moving down and releasing the keepers, it's because they're stuck, like they always are. Try giving the retainer a few taps with a hammer and they should come loose. If not, back the compressor off, put a socket on top of the retainer, and give it a mighty smack with a hammer, then try the compressor again. BTW a magnet-on-a-stick comes in real handy for getting the keepers out once they're loose.


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  3. mikestang63

    mikestang63 Mustang Master

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    As always good advice from MFE...Couple of things to add

    Make sure the valves are closed and that you have either compressed air in the spark plug hole to keep the valves from dropping, or the old school method we used back in the day of stuffing rope in the spark plug hole to keep the valves in place. Obviously the shop air is the best method.

    Also, after you have the spring reassembled and removed the tool, with the valves still held in place give the spring a few good taps with the plastic hammer. Better to know the retainers were not seated properly at that time than later.
  4. Gearbanger 101

    Gearbanger 101 we love us some gays up here Super Mod

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    Considering his head is sitting on what looks like his coffee table, I'd say that method of valve removal doesn't apply. The method you described above is for removing the valve springs with the heads still on the engine.
  5. mikestang63

    mikestang63 Mustang Master

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    lol,. thats what you get for replying at 11pm on Saturday. :doh: Didn't look at the picture close enough. He should still rap the assembled spring a few times to make sure the keepers are in place.
  6. 7991LXnSHO

    7991LXnSHO Active Member

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    I have a NAPA spring compressor that compresses when you fold down the handle. It works but yours is nicer. Good advice on the retainers all around. I have used shop air, but will try the rope next time. I would hate to drop a valve.

    As far as the table, I thought he was using a new maple block. It is lightweight and recycle able. :)
  7. gnx547

    gnx547 Member

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    I tapped the retainers with a socket and it worked. I got all the valves removed and I will be cleaning them all up and lapping them. And how can I tell if a valve is bent? Is there a method I can do to determine if a valve is bent?
  8. 7991LXnSHO

    7991LXnSHO Active Member

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    Psychological evaluation will usually tell if it something is bent.
    A run out gauge while rotating it or a straight edge and feeler would be other, quicker, appropriate tools.
  9. Gearbanger 101

    Gearbanger 101 we love us some gays up here Super Mod

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    You might even be able to tell when lapping them. If the valve has an irregular ring around it where the lapping compound is and seems to ride higher up the valve face on one side, than it does the other, it may indication damage. Why, are you under the impression these valves made contact with the pistons at some point?

    Inspect the valve and seat faces closely when you clean them up. If you see any excessive pitting on either, or are unable to make out the individual cuts in the seat from the previous valve job, you'd be better off to suck it up and send it out for a fresh valve job. Lapping bad valves won't last long. The only way to know for certain they'll last is with a fresh cut.
    Rick 91GT likes this.
  10. gnx547

    gnx547 Member

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    No, the valves did not make contact to the pistons. I have a slow leak in one of the combustion chambers. I put water in the combustion chamber and all but one held water. The one leaking is a slow leak and the valves seals look new on the heads. So I want to do a light valve lapping and see if it seals. And at the same time I want to inspect the valves to make sure they are 100 percent straight.
  11. MFE92

    MFE92 Active Member

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    first thing I'd do is roll each one of them on a very smooth surface and look for any wobbling.
  12. mikestang63

    mikestang63 Mustang Master

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    "Psychological evaluation"? lol :stick: This some new technique?


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