Not a bad idea, but not sure i want to do it that way. There are 2 pos and negs on the bulb since there are two filaments. That method will just light up 1 instead of lighting up both filaments like the other two bulbs and it will not be as bright.
WHat would it take to make inner segment of taillights functional??
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lightblade
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this is exactly what i did and it is relatively low voltage system so there is no loss, it is just as bright and works fine it has been over a year so i dont remember the exact number of wires or colors, a volt meter will help or u can just play guess and test, i can take pictures of what mine looks like if u want the inside bulb works normal with the low voltage from the normal wire as a tail light, then when u hit the brakes or turn on the blinker the high volt will get sent over fromt that middle bulb wire to the outside bulb single wire and light up just as bright.
lightblade
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mity2
I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
Mustang5L5 said:
Dont. I went there earlier, and they don't list any replacement socket for our car. I'll try Pepboys tomorrw
lightblade
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Mustang5L5 said:
took a look at my tail lights, what u are thinking wont happen that high voltage that goes to each bulb lights both filaments not just the high, and then the low volt just lights the low filament, it looks oem like its supposed to be like that with this mod, let me know if u got any more questions, iit took me about an hour to and like 5 bucks to this mod.
lightblade said:
Yes, it is a good idea however i am considering running LED bulbs in the taillights and need the two separate power sources since that's the way they work. The bulbs have two banks of LED's and if i used this method they won't all light up. That's the reasoning why i need to do it the OEM way.
mity2 said:
Pep boys has them out on the shelves. I saw 1 there a couple days ago. Only problem is it's pretty bulky and i was not sure it would fit behind the taillight. Not a lot of room back there.
Did you look on the floor for the socket or ask behind the desk? I'm finding the replacement sockets to be in the section of the floor with all the HELP products and other electrical products. Seems the 3157 socket isn't bought that much since i only found 1 in the 3 stores i checked out. I might go buy it today to see if it will even fit. If it does, we're golden
mity2
I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
Mustang5L5 said:
Haven't checked Pepboys yet. I'm going to tho. Advancedauto usually have nothing i need in advance anyway..
I tried lights way.. and it didnt work. It only lit up very dim like the "minor" side, as if your lights were on.
So then i noticed that there was a "ground, minor, and major on the center bulb.. but only the minor and the ground were wired. So I took this little rubbery cover off the bulb where the wires go in and I noticed that there was a place for the "major" also..
So I attempted to wire a wire tapped into one of the "majors" to the "major" on the center bulb but it did not work.
It is possible that I didnt have all the appropriate hardware for this.. and it could possibly work with proper stuff.. but as far as I could tell that didn't work either.
I pretty much conclude that you need a new socket.
good luck
So then i noticed that there was a "ground, minor, and major on the center bulb.. but only the minor and the ground were wired. So I took this little rubbery cover off the bulb where the wires go in and I noticed that there was a place for the "major" also..
So I attempted to wire a wire tapped into one of the "majors" to the "major" on the center bulb but it did not work.
It is possible that I didnt have all the appropriate hardware for this.. and it could possibly work with proper stuff.. but as far as I could tell that didn't work either.
I pretty much conclude that you need a new socket.
good luck
mity2 said:
On my way now to pick up the one i saw at Pep Boys. I hid it somewhere so nobody else would snag it
lightblade
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i dont know why it didnt work for yall, worked fine for me inside bulb lights up bright with the others everytime, well good luck with your new socket thing, when i get around to it i will take pictures of what i did in the wiring because i cant even remmeber the color or which wire it was when i did it.
here are the pics of the taillights i took last night
dig cam without flash:
tailights on
View attachment 488536
right turn signal on
View attachment 488538
dig cam with flash:
taillights on
View attachment 488540
right turn signal
View attachment 488542
here are the pics of the taillights i took last night
dig cam without flash:
tailights on
View attachment 488536
right turn signal on
View attachment 488538
dig cam with flash:
taillights on
View attachment 488540
right turn signal
View attachment 488542
mity2
I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
I found sockets that work
They are out in the isle. I found them in Autozone.
Conduct-tite 85881 3157 socket for GM. $7.99
They had them for Ford, but they went straight out and i didn't think they would fit behind the taillight and body. The GM ones were angled like the stock Ford sockets. I just opened one and popped it in and it locks into place on the taillight.
Time to break out the soldering iron and heatshrink and wire them up. I'll be taking pics.
They are out in the isle. I found them in Autozone.
Conduct-tite 85881 3157 socket for GM. $7.99
They had them for Ford, but they went straight out and i didn't think they would fit behind the taillight and body. The GM ones were angled like the stock Ford sockets. I just opened one and popped it in and it locks into place on the taillight.
Time to break out the soldering iron and heatshrink and wire them up. I'll be taking pics.
mity2
I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
Pep boys sells em too!
I'm gonna do a write up with pics, but if you want to start, Splice G on the new socket to the ground wire, B goes to Minor and A goes to Major.
Make sure the bulb is seated right. I didn't check and tore my hair out for 15 mins trying to figure out why it wasn't working.
The socket will lock, but since it's a GM socket it doesn't fit great. I wasn';t sure if the Ford version would even fit behind the light. I just positioned the socket where I wanted to and put a small peice of duct tape over it to keep it from vibrating loose. The tape is not needed, but just a failsafe.
1 side done, does not affect blinker speed at all. Off to do the other side
I'm gonna do a write up with pics, but if you want to start, Splice G on the new socket to the ground wire, B goes to Minor and A goes to Major.
Make sure the bulb is seated right. I didn't check and tore my hair out for 15 mins trying to figure out why it wasn't working.
The socket will lock, but since it's a GM socket it doesn't fit great. I wasn';t sure if the Ford version would even fit behind the light. I just positioned the socket where I wanted to and put a small peice of duct tape over it to keep it from vibrating loose. The tape is not needed, but just a failsafe.
1 side done, does not affect blinker speed at all. Off to do the other side
mity2
I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
Holy crap, good thing i got them at AZ.
They are both on the car now and working great. I am just concerned with water as all the runoff from the trunk flows there. I heatshrunk all the connections to prevent water. I sprayed the area with a hose to see if any seeped into the socket and none did, so should be all set.
Let me upload a few pics
They are both on the car now and working great. I am just concerned with water as all the runoff from the trunk flows there. I heatshrunk all the connections to prevent water. I sprayed the area with a hose to see if any seeped into the socket and none did, so should be all set.
Let me upload a few pics
Ok here we go. Here's the socket. It's part number 85881 and it's for a GM. Reason i got this socket was because it was L-shaped like the stockers. There isn't much room under the light. They do have Ford 3157 sockets. I beleive the part number is either 85883 or 85889. If you want to give those a shot, go ahead and try it and let us know. The GM sockets don't fit as tight, but they lock in snugly. Keep this in mind.
View attachment 488480
Here's the backside of the taillight. Check out the turn signal section for Japanese export Mustangs. I wonder if you would be able to get this working? Anyway, it's a pretty simple concept. There are 2 wires on the inside signal, the black is the ground and the brown is the parking lamp also labeled "Minor"
View attachment 488482
WHat you are going to do is splice "G" on the new socket to ground, and "B" to minor. This will get your parking lights working. Make sure you use solder or a good crimp and heatshrink! A lot of water flows by here so we want to keep it out. The blinker/brake lamp is MAJOR and will be the brightly colored wire. It's green on the driver's side and red on the pass side. I didn't want to cut the wire so i used a wire tap connector. Pretty easy to use and pretty rugged. No need to strip either. I taped the crap out of it with electrical tap to keep water out as well even though it shouldn't affect this type of connector as much.
View attachment 488484
Looking back, i should have used this connector for all 3 so i could keep the stock socket there and maybe put it in a small plastic bag. That way if i ever wanted to return to stock i could easily.
Once the wiring is set, you'll notice the socket doesn't fit perfectly. I wanted to align all the bulbs to be "standing" the same way so i twisted the socket around until it was aligned properly.
Since i was very concerned with water, i took an extra measure and used duct tape over the socket. This served to secure it further and to prevent any water from entering. It's not necessary at all, but since nobody will ever see it and i wanted to be 100% sure there would be no leaks, i took this measure.
1 final note. Make sure the bulbs are seated in the socket all the way otherwise the blinker portion would not blink. I ran into this problem with both sockets and it required me pressing the bulb in hard with pliers. It helps to have a 120V to 12V AC-DC inverter around as you can test this out on the bench rather than on the car. It made my job easier.
That's about it really. It does not affect blinker rate at all. I notice no change at all.
View attachment 488480
Here's the backside of the taillight. Check out the turn signal section for Japanese export Mustangs. I wonder if you would be able to get this working? Anyway, it's a pretty simple concept. There are 2 wires on the inside signal, the black is the ground and the brown is the parking lamp also labeled "Minor"
View attachment 488482
WHat you are going to do is splice "G" on the new socket to ground, and "B" to minor. This will get your parking lights working. Make sure you use solder or a good crimp and heatshrink! A lot of water flows by here so we want to keep it out. The blinker/brake lamp is MAJOR and will be the brightly colored wire. It's green on the driver's side and red on the pass side. I didn't want to cut the wire so i used a wire tap connector. Pretty easy to use and pretty rugged. No need to strip either. I taped the crap out of it with electrical tap to keep water out as well even though it shouldn't affect this type of connector as much.
View attachment 488484
Looking back, i should have used this connector for all 3 so i could keep the stock socket there and maybe put it in a small plastic bag. That way if i ever wanted to return to stock i could easily.
Once the wiring is set, you'll notice the socket doesn't fit perfectly. I wanted to align all the bulbs to be "standing" the same way so i twisted the socket around until it was aligned properly.
Since i was very concerned with water, i took an extra measure and used duct tape over the socket. This served to secure it further and to prevent any water from entering. It's not necessary at all, but since nobody will ever see it and i wanted to be 100% sure there would be no leaks, i took this measure.
1 final note. Make sure the bulbs are seated in the socket all the way otherwise the blinker portion would not blink. I ran into this problem with both sockets and it required me pressing the bulb in hard with pliers. It helps to have a 120V to 12V AC-DC inverter around as you can test this out on the bench rather than on the car. It made my job easier.
That's about it really. It does not affect blinker rate at all. I notice no change at all.
mity2
I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
ha I'm done with mine. Mine seated tight. I don't have to worry about water. It was soo tight, infact, I had to use needle nose plier to turn the stinking thing.
But its working great. My only complaint is that 2 outer bulbs feraments are pointing up and down, where as my inner one now are pointing sideways. Noone would notice, but then Im anal...
But its working great. My only complaint is that 2 outer bulbs feraments are pointing up and down, where as my inner one now are pointing sideways. Noone would notice, but then Im anal...
Yeah it was like that for me. I just turned the socket more until they lined up. It's not as tight as the other position, but i wanted my bulbs to all point the same way.
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