Whats my options?

[MysteryMachine]

I'm on a thinkng spree again about my car. I would like to maybe pull the motor and fix/rebuild or buy another engine and rebuild and drop in it over the winter. I'd like to keep the cost down so I would rather not have to re-buy the parts I already have. With that said what could I build with these parts and have a decent amout of hp and daily driveablity.


Trickflow Street Heat Intake
75mm TB
90mm LMAF
#30 injs
Tweecer R/T (so I can tune whatever)

 

[urban96]

sorta budget

·TFS heads (can be ported later on for a stroker or boost)
·306(check around for pricing on an overhaul of your current block, may be cheaper to buy a DSS or CHP 306 shortblock)
·TFS cam to match their other stuff


or like i said b4, buy a explorer motor, swap ur intake and other stuff over to it and drive it till it dies

 

[ProKiller]

your intake and injectors will limit what you can do. you can always sell them and buy used parts on the corral and such. there's always boost.

 

[95Vert]

I say buy parts that give you room to grow. If you're going to buy a cam, www.camshaftinnovations.com is the place to go. He can recommend the BEST OTS stuff or can grind you a custom.

 

[MysteryMachine]

I'm liking urban's idea. that's kinda what I was thinking myself. I still would rather not buy a junkyard motor and go through the same thing. I'm pretty happy with the power my car has. I mean that as I loved driving it. yes I was slowly modding it but its not like I need 1000 hp right now. I was also considering if I did a 306 and wanted more down the road to turbo it. this is all while still thinking about the 460/514 idea. I don't wanna have to wait 10 years while I build a monster motor and wait till my car is emissions exempt to drive it.

 

[MysteryMachine]

ok say I did a 306 with the parts I listed and a set of twisted wedge heads and stage 1 cam what hp would I be looking at NA?

 

[sage2k]

roughly 300rwhp

 

[MysteryMachine]

ok thats what I thought. Now say I was to throw a turbo on it. Whats the highest HP I could get from the turbo. I know stock blocks can only handle 500. 300-500 doesn't seem possible with just a turbo. I'm trying to decide on if i should keep my stock block, or buy a dss or something and if i would buy a dss which one to go with. They are rated different and ones that are "turbo" ready. Just trying to find out if I would be anywhere close to rate something like that

 

[final5-0]

your intake and injectors will limit what you can do. you can always sell them and buy used parts on the corral and such. there's always boost.

I gotta throw in with Ryan here

If you wanna go NA and will get around to aftermarket h/c/i

Since you got the Tweecer ... be thankful you got the 30's is my thinking
however
I'd rather have a mid length runner upper for the top end
and
Recover any of it's loss down low with some LT's

Now if you went with a pa the 30's would be too tiny :Word:
but
The long runner intake might not be all that bad since you force things

Grady

 

[MysteryMachine]

Grady I kinda understand some of what your saying. I know if down the road I went turbo the 30's would be too small. I went with them now for the NA setup because of you saying 24's would be too small or right on the edge when I had asked about my plans a while back. I'm not sure if i want to do long tubes I know they are better but then I would have to change more of my exhaust which is more money. Also I gotta watch what i do with emissions. Part of the reason I'm putting the monster build off for a few years. My car won't be exempt untill its 25 years old i don't wanna have to wait 12 or 13 years till I can drive it lol.

Where I'm confused at is the runner talk. I know you mean intakes but I don't know the difference from one to the other. Whats a TFS street heat considered?

Who knows I might throw a new/reworked motor in the car and be totally happy with the power. This is all just a what if right now. I just upgraded storage sheds i have a 10x20 and its half empty so i am throwing together ideas. I am thinking I'll pull my motor and work on it in the shed over the winter and if its done in the spring drop it back in the car and be back on the road. Thats if i can afford the shed rent and all my other bills and parts to build a motor.

 

[final5-0]

Grady I kinda understand some of what your saying. I know if down the road I went turbo the 30's would be too small. I went with them now for the NA setup because of you saying 24's would be too small or right on the edge when I had asked about my plans a while back. I'm not sure if i want to do long tubes I know they are better but then I would have to change more of my exhaust which is more money. Also I gotta watch what i do with emissions. Part of the reason I'm putting the monster build off for a few years. My car won't be exempt untill its 25 years old i don't wanna have to wait 12 or 13 years till I can drive it lol.

Where I'm confused at is the runner talk. I know you mean intakes but I don't know the difference from one to the other. Whats a TFS street heat considered?

Who knows I might throw a new/reworked motor in the car and be totally happy with the power. This is all just a what if right now. I just upgraded storage sheds i have a 10x20 and its half empty so i am throwing together ideas. I am thinking I'll pull my motor and work on it in the shed over the winter and if its done in the spring drop it back in the car and be back on the road. Thats if i can afford the shed rent and all my other bills and parts to build a motor.

Well you have in the TFS and Edel line of intakes long, mid, and short length
runner upper intakes.

I believe they would be from long to short in the TFS line the ...
Street Heat
Track Heat
R Series

For the Edel line you have the ...
Performer
RPM
Victor

The rule of thumb for NA applications are ...
1) longest runner for good low to mid range torque
2) mid length runner for good midrange to high end torque
3) shortest runners shift the power band up to say ... 3/4 and beyond typical street combo redlines

I would tell you this and I feel most over look what I'm about to say

For a street combo good low and mid range torque is where it is at
simply because
You spend most of your time in those two areas of the power band

You can enhance the low and mid range part of the band by ...

Long runner upper intake
Spark Curve optimization
Long Tube Headers
Cam Specs

As always with mods ... compromises do come into play

Here are my thoughts along those lines and how I dealt with the issues
when I was making my decisions about my sig combo

After looking at many dyno pulls of various combos

I saw the longest runner intakes as falling off too soon in the power band

The mid length runner was a solution for the low rpm power drop off
but
You would take a hit with loss of torque down low in the power band

1) I knew I could ask my cam guy to focus in on my power band preference

2) I knew I could use long tube headers for low and mid range help

3) I knew I would have access to the spark and fuel curves

Can you see how I used 1, 2, and 3 to help and make up for lost low end
torque with my choice of upper intake

I will go ahead and point out what is obvious to many peeps here
but
We do have some peeps who are just getting started in the hobby
so
I wanted the mid length runner intake to extend the power band

This is very important and two easy examples to show it would be ...

1) A little stocker Stang
You run up the rpm's and it is starting to poop out before 5K

2) An after market h/c/i Stang
You do the same and can go to upper 5K or lower 6K range
depending upon your mod decisions

I believe so strongly in what I just said I would tell you this

Yes ... moving to LT's will force you to go to a different mid pipe
but
The difference is worth the trouble and expense

Of course ... if your state says NO to LT's ... that has to be dealt with

Now ... You said you were gonna do the self tune thing
so
You can find some more low and mid range torque with that

In the interest of ... always keeping an open mind to things

I do feel I gotta share with you the ONE combo that was the exception
that I've seen that did not follow the general rule of thumb thing with
the upper intake selection choice

I saw an AFR/FTI/Edel h/c/i combo that ...
had a good looking power band at low, mid and high range rpm's
made more power than all the other similar combos
and
he did it with the Performer which is the longest runner intake

The way he did it was ... He had the lower intake ported

Well ... I'm sure everybody is getting tired of my rambling on and on
so
Maybe the above stuff might cause some to think a bit more

Grady

 

[drakesdad]

Well ... I'm sure everybody is getting tired of my rambling on and on
so
Maybe the above stuff might cause some to think a bit more

Grady

Man.....ain't that the truth............... ....joking big Grady.....quite the opposite for all of us.....

If he would decide to have ONE toy he could afford to build it.....Motorcycle.....headers for the Ram......and poor old Mystery Machine growing weeds under it....what's the world coming to..........Joking Jinx....kinda..