Wheel Bearing And Rotors

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by sen2two, Aug 11, 2014.

  1. Looks like it's time to replace my front wheel bearings, and my brake rotors have seen better days as well. I'm having trouble finding a complete package. where can I find a complete front brake rotor assembly with the wheel bearings already installed with new races?

    Might as well get it all at once and save myself the trouble of packing and pressing them in and out.
     
  2. Most new rotors come with wheel bearing races installed. Packing bearings is a 5 minute job, even less is you buy a cheap bearing packer from harbour freight for $10.
     
  3. My guess is they would come with the races, but since it does not say it, I can't be sure.

    Also, I figured if I were to buy all the bearings with the brake rotors in a "kit", it might come out cheaper.
     
  4. I plan to do the 4 lug rear disc brake conversion as well at the same time.
     
  5. The parts houses are not going to have a "kit" per say.. You will need inner and outer bearings, rotors and seals. The bearings literally just sit in the rotors, no pressing needed. Like suggested above, a cheap bearing packer will make your job much easier.
     
  6. Every rotor I ever sold had the race pressed into the rotor already. Can't say it's a good quality race or not, but will probably out last the rotor either way. Watch out for Chinese bearings. That's what the parts stores are pushing now and they don't last long.

    Kurt
     
  7. The problem with the Chinese bearings is an hour after you install them, you get this urge to install another set. lol
     
    hoopty5.0 likes this.
  8. It's been a while since I swapped in a Mach 1 caliper and larger rotor but I thought the stock rotor and hub are two separate assemblies. IIRC the hub locking nut is torqued to about 275 ft lbs or some insane amount. I'll check the service manual when I get home tonight.
     
  9. On Fox body Mustangs the rotor contains the bearing and is torqued down in two steps- first to about 15ft lb then backed off and then to 5. There is no hub on these cars as the rotors contain the wheel studs.
     
  10. I keep forgetting this isn't sn95 specific.
     
  11. Wow, that sounds like a lot of work. I always just put a wrench on it, and set it to where it spins nice with no play.

    Kurt
     
  12. As do most people- just going by what the FSM says.
     
  13. I know, I just think this stuff is hilarious some times. All these manuals are written by engineers that have never actually used a wrench, and need a torque spec for everything. A torque wrench is so inaccurate at 5lbs that you could fart, and set it off. I have a really accurate digital torque wrench, and I can't set a bolt to 5lbs. It's the same for the SN bearings as well. The manual says set them at 295lbs. to me that just means tighten them up a **** load, but there are guys on here that spend $200 on a torque wrench just to install that one bearing.

    Kurt
     
  14. On cars with integral rotors and hubs, all the way back to drum break spindles, the procedure allows room for heat expansion, but not excess slop. I was taught to tighten it up, then back it off a castle nut notch or two. Then make sure it spins but has no play. It is very scientific.

    Chicago Rawhide (CR) seals and Timken bearings have been a reputable brands of US parts.