which kind of 302 block is the best to build?

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nah its fine i just need to machine my block and itll be about the same price. not too big of a deal.

side question, do the newer blocks have the provision for the stud to mount a z bar?
Hi,
If not it's an easy job. It's best to do a test fit drill before the cam bearings are installed. However, if you're "after-the-fact", still not a problem, but, you have to be oh so careful and use a "bottom" tap. The valley area is very thin. You can run the risk of drilling into the back of a cam bear shell.
If careful, you can do it successfully.
Good Luck!
 
The Summit block isn't a bad deal, if the shipping is reasonable, since it has all the machine work done. All you have to do is make sure it's clean and start to assemble. You could pick any '85+ 5.0HO - Don't know what year on other models but if they have E5 or E7 heads you can look down the pushrod hole and see (the made it big enough so you could pull the lifter out without pulling the intake). 96/7 to 2001 Explorers also had 5.0's and if there is a "P" in the VIN engine code they have the desirable GT-40P heads which are probably the best production SBF head made, albeit the spark plug and exhaust port locations make header choices much more slim than normal.
 
+1 for explorer... few hundred bucks... tune it conservatively to less than 500 rwhp, and when/if it goes, go get another one... a lot cheaper than spending $2k on an aftermarket block, plus, you never have so much money tied up that you're devastated if it goes.
 
My engine builder wanted a pre 1982 block, because the crankshaft of the older blocks is more then 20 lbs heavier then the blocks after 82. He got what he wanted ...but I now wonder whats going to happen if this motor blows...can I find another decent pre 82 block? All my parts are for a 28oz balance..dist wont work on newer block, all kinds of stuff to think about when using older block.
 
I wouldn't be all that concerned. The main webbing in the older blocks is a little thicker, which allows the block to handle a little more power, if you're pushing the limit. Still, If you're staying NA, you wouldn't have anything to worry about. Also, I really don't get the reference to the heavier crank. I'm thinking they're cast peices, and extra weight isn't a performance advantage.
 
do you guys know if the newer blocks have the tapped and threaded hole on the driver side of the block to install stock clutch mounting pivots? No, but you can buy a bolt-on adapter. Some may have the boss which can be drilled and tapped.

also, the summit block advertised says hyd flat tappet or hdy roller.... hmm
That is correct. Ford installed flat tappet cams in roller blocks well after they were first produced. Non-H.O. 5.0's for example, and 94+ 351W blocks.