WHICH KMEMBER AND A ARMS

[cmb91LX]

I have a 91 LX which will soon be seeing a total front end makeover. I would like to do this myself . I have seen the QA1 front setup BUT it says for drag racing. I know Performance Auto makes one, Maximum Motorsports, and UPR along with many others make these Kmember, A arm and coilover kits. My question is simple:

Which kit is the most comfortable on the street and what is the difficulty of installation? Does it bolt right in, need welding, cutting?

Also does anyone have a link to direct me to a Kmember, A arm and coilover install.
I definitely appreciate any advice anyone can provide.

 

[bluevenom867]

I got a D&D kit and it fit right in with no modifcation. They have the coil over kit in street and drag spring rates (2.25 street and 1.75 strip). I got the street kit and the car sit's excellant now that I can adjust the hight. They said it droped about 115 pound from the K-member and A-arms alone! The coil over kit drop probable 15-20 also. I don't know what current prices are now but i got mine a a Ford even for $625
form Texas Hot Rod. It uses the factory bolts so don't toss them! I also like it because alot of people tell me the powder coat is very good on them. Any kit that you get thou should be about the same.

 

[Gravel]

Maximum Motorsports

 

[Matt90GT]

D&D is not built to the stock dimensions of the v8 mustangs 87-93. If you install this K member on a v8 mustang 87-93, you will lose 1-2" of front track! The 4cyl cars use a 1" narrower track than the v8 cars. This will degrade the handling of the car.

The HAL is the budget K member for handling. It will increase the wheelbase about 3/4-1" over stock. Griggs and MM will also, but you have options for going up to 2" on these. The HAL will lighten the weight and give you better handling.

PA seems to have the stock v8 dimensions nailed, great price. Nothing over stock beyond lighter weight.

YOu may want to post your intended use -- 1320 or someting with corners.

 

[millhouse]

I just installed a aje racing k-member and a-arm setup. It fit nicely and kept the stock dimensions...although he will custom make just about anything without a price change. What I particularly liked was the way the a-arm mounting location was integrated into the k-member, rather than having mounting tabs for them. You can check them out here ------> http://www.ajeracing.com/

I opted for the stock fox length a-arms with sn95 ball joints (again, no extra charge) because of my disc conversion.

As far as the install went, it's quite straitforeward. You have to support the engine before you drop the k-member of course. You also have to remove the stock springs, struts, and anything that you may re-use (like the rack and pinion). Removing them after the k-member is off can be quite diffacult due to the lack of support needed to really torque some of the bolts off.

I just did a complete write up of my impressions in the talk forum yesterday. Take a peek to really see more of my reviews on it.

 

[cmb91LX]

the use of the car will be a TOY. It will see occasional 1320 duty along with weekend cruises. It will be driven over 20 miles to work every now and then when the weather is perfect. When you say increase the track do you mean move the front wheels forward or apart?

 

[TT91]

Moved the front wheels Foward..

I use the UPR peice, easy bolt in, no problems, looks really sharp.