Who's running oil sperator (s)?

Discussion in '2010 - 2014 Specific Tech' started by beviking, Apr 3, 2012.

  1. That's awesome you're not afraid to put miles on your Boss. I've put 10,500 on my GT the first year. I used to keep my cars garage queened and freak out with every speck of dirt. These cars were made to be driven and I now enjoy them alot more once I changed my mentality. Happy driving
     
  2. I do love driving the Boss. I've had it since Aug/2011 and I have just over 11,000 miles on it. Most of those miles are on the Interstate during 3 long road trips.
     
  3. So what type of maintenance needs done on the Steeda oil separator? Do you just install it and it does it's thing or do you have to clean it out or something?
     
  4. I don't have the Steeda but it works just like the JLT where you un-screw the cup and empty it.
     
  5. Just unscrew it and empty it. If after a while you notice that it isn't catching any oil, you may need to get a replacement filter.
     
  6. "Please install a site glass into the top or side of your separator."
    How would one go about doing this?

    "Oh... and a one way vacuum check valve that will allow accumulated oil to return to the pan when the motor is shut off. (guess if you had that then you really wouldn't need the site glass)"
    If the check valve is one way...then wouldn't it prevent air flow in one direction? Thereby either preventing flow through the pcv or creating an air lock so the oil couldn't flow back to the oil pan? :scratch:

    I do like the "5.0" on the side of the Steeda can. Color that in with a red (or whatever color YOU like) crayon and it would look sharp! Bu, I went with the JLT for ease also.
     
  7. The check valve goes into the bottom of the catch can and runs to the oil pan, not in-line of the manifold/valve cover. With the motor running, the vacuum closes the check valve (so that oil is not drawn from the oil pan drain fitting). When the motor is shut off, the check valve opens and allows any oil accumulated in the catch can to drain to the oil pan.

    Something similar to this: http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/mer...LPE&Product_Code=L200010000&Category_Code=C54 only pretty and shiny. :D
     
  8. Ah ha! said the blind man, that makes perfect sense. If only there was a tapped plug already fitted in the bottome of the catch can to make it easier for those not willing to drill/tap their new can. Any horror stories of check valves failing? I know in plumbing they stick after a time. Not sure I'd be able to install one for fear it would stick open and oil would be sucked up into the valve cover.
     
  9. Honestly, I don't know what the failure rate is for the check valves. I know that they've been using this type of system on on diesel equipment and OEM turbo setups for years. I've not seen feedback that they were a nightmare.

    I had made my own, similar type system several years ago and used an electric operated solenoid that closed the valve when the ignition switch was on. Someone showed me this and I went :doh: How simple is that? LOL My version was seriously over-engineered. :rlaugh:

    I would think that since it's hot oil that is draining from the catch can and hot oil that is keeping the check valve lubricated, that it should be a pretty reliable system provided that the check valve is made from materials that are compatible with engine temp oil.
     
  10. "I would think that since it's hot oil that is draining from the catch can and hot oil that is keeping the check valve lubricated, that it should be a pretty reliable system provided that the check valve is made from materials that are compatible with engine temp oil." Uh, yeah, that might be a plus!:doh:
     
  11. Have a Steeda separator on each side, love the design and they went in easy enough :)
     
    SteedaBrandon likes this.
  12. The Steeda kit is kind of pricey IMO. If you go to your local hardware store and look through the section that has all of the air-tank supplies, you can duplicate that kit for a fraction of the cost.

    I bought 2 oil separators, and 4- 5/8in fittings from Home Depot. Used some rubber fuel line I had lying around and later installed a couple brake booster check valves so that air could only travel in one direction (the Steeda kit doesn't have these). You can get the check valves from the HELP section in all the usual part stores. I did have to put together some adapters (don't recall their exact sizes) between the vac lines and the check valves.

    The need for the check valves will depend on your application though. I installed them primarily, as a back up for the PCV valve on the passenger side and to function as the PCV for the extra line I installed from the driver side valve cover to the intake.
     
  13. Some folks want to buy it and go. Maybe it's that they just don't have the time or don't want to spend the effort (or don't have the know-how) for picking out cans, fittings, lines, adapters, etc.

    There will always be those who would rather put together their own of any part that you can upgrade. :nice:
     
    Clair Smith likes this.
  14. True... This one's not rocket science though. Had the pieces/parts purchased and installed in less time than it takes UPS to print the shipping label. :D
     
  15. Why install just on the passenger side and not both? And does anyone know if it affect the warranty and are California cars different??
     
  16. Not worried about air going in through the oil separator, pressure and resistance to flow should take care of that. I bet that you spent more time in the store shopping for parts than I did putting in both of the separators. Plus, I really like the the workmanship of the Steeda parts, I know that I could not make parts equal quality. But, to each their own and enjoy making your car your own :)
     
    SteedaBrandon likes this.
  17. Not sure what you mean about just the passenger side. I installed a separator on both sides by running a separator and check valve into a hole that I punched in the driver side valve cover with a grommet. No warranty issues and CA cars are the same in respect to the PCV system.

    Unless you have a less than perfect PCV valve. As far as time goes... I spend maybe 10 minutes picking up two Husky oil separators and four barbed, brass fittings. Quality wise... they're simple oil separators specifically designed for air compressors. If quality is your concern then you might want to look into a billet catch can vs. this kind of system because they are otherwise the same.
     
  18. Quality was my concern and that is why I bought the billet Steeda system, I like the design and they look great in the engine bay :)
     
    SteedaBrandon likes this.
  19. Yeah, their billet piece is very nice. I should have clarified earlier... THIS is the one I campare the my Home Depot kit to:

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Got you, absolutely agree with your route :)