So, I've got the 88 GT. It had the engine rebuilt about 10-15k ago. I've got no vac leaks, new plugs, wires, distributor (haven't checked timing recently though,) a/c delete kit, electric fan, etc. the car won't even spin the tires off the line if I floor it from a stop. It's an auto.. and it's not slipping. A guy who was thinking of buying it drove it and said, "I always picturered 5.0's being lightning fast." .. it seems like it should be much faster than it is. I've driven several other 5.0's, all of which could easily break the tires loose off the line.. what kinds of things should I be looking at to bring this thing back up to the power it should have?
Why the heck is my car so slow?
- Thread starter sgarlic
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Dbeck002
New Member
Im not trying to sound like a jerk but a stock 88 GT auto is not a fast car.
If the tranny is really old and worn out than it will hurt performance too. But even if the engine is rebuilt and making 225 HP as in stock form I say its the tranny and your weight.
If the tranny is really old and worn out than it will hurt performance too. But even if the engine is rebuilt and making 225 HP as in stock form I say its the tranny and your weight.
blackstangt
Member
if convertible, it should be slow, if you have decent tires, no tuning and the wider gear option, it should be hard to spin the tires. I like to mod my car, but why did you leave it stock after a rebuild?
rsw007
New Member
most aod cars came with 2.73 gears and they wont spin from a start. i would deffinetly check the timing most aod cars can run 13-16 degress with no problem.
Pod
Member
Take it to a drag strip and see what time you get.
A car can feel fast or slow, even when it isn't.
A car can feel fast or slow, even when it isn't.
blackstangt said:
I wasn't the owner of the car at the time it was rebuilt, in fact I didn't even find out it was rebuilt until months after I bought it. And the reason I don't go "mod crazy" is because I have a '04 which is way faster and has far more potential that I'd like to pour money in to.
Euphoric306
New Member
- Apr 5, 2004
- 905
- 0
- 0
rsw007 said:
i believe standard for stick was 2.73 with a 3.08 option, and fo rauto 3.08 was standard with a 3.27 option... or maybe i am mistaken?
Dbeck002
New Member
The solution is not to advance the timing and slap gears on there. There is a problem with the car and those mods are just bandaids.
When i first got my 5.0 (Bone stock) i could fry my tires (its a 5 spd but had 2.73 gears). You need to find out what the problem is before you get gears and stuff.
BTW: a 5.0 has more potential than an 04 GT, food for thought
When i first got my 5.0 (Bone stock) i could fry my tires (its a 5 spd but had 2.73 gears). You need to find out what the problem is before you get gears and stuff.
BTW: a 5.0 has more potential than an 04 GT, food for thought
Many aod's have this problem especially the verts. My 89' vert could not spin them from a dead stop consitently. Many factors to consider such as tires and mileage to name a few. This all changed when I installed gears and there were no other issues with it mechanically. So the mods suggested are not just bandaids.
larrendeuce
Member
You said it was rebulit? Are you sure what parts are on the motor? Is it possible they rebuilt the motor with standard 5.0 parts and not HO parts? 
larrendeuce said:You said it was rebulit? Are you sure what parts are on the motor? Is it possible they rebuilt the motor with standard 5.0 parts and not HO parts?
That is possible. I thought that myself when I first started to notice that my car is slower than everyone elses 5.0's are. Everything appears (not that I'm an expert at identifying HO vs standard parts,) to be the way it looks in everybody elses pictures.. of course that's only the outside stuff, heads, etc.
I think one of the main things at the moment is the fact that somebody cut the mufflers off. I did this on one other vehicle I owned, and noticed a huge loss of torque. I wonder if I put a decent cat-back on if I'd gain some of it back.
And to the above poster who mentioned the 5.0's have more potential than my modular does, I meant regarding the fact that my modular is stock & strong (doesn't have these lack of power problems yet.) Getting up to 400rwhp is a matter of bolting up a KB, whereas to bring my 5.0 up to 400 would take much more work, money, etc.
youre right when i got my 92 gt ity had no mufflers and was very slow
but i finally got some mufflers on there and power was restored
it could also be your timing check if it is @10 degrees that is the setting that ford put it on, i have mine @14 deg.btdc
but i finally got some mufflers on there and power was restored
it could also be your timing check if it is @10 degrees that is the setting that ford put it on, i have mine @14 deg.btdc
stangbanger94
New Member
Pod said:
I hear that!!When I first put my 327 stroker in my car, I took it out for a spin, and thought "wow this car is a pig". It couldn't spin the M/T ET Streets for nothing, but I went to the track, and BAM!!!!!!!! who would have ever known it was a 12 second N/A car
larrendeuce
Member
I'd do a compression check, pull computer codes, replace fuel filter, change all fluids. check timing, if needed new 02 sensors. If everything is ok, I'd run it at the track. Its good to have a number to work from. Adding a new catback or anything else I'd do after your run at the track. You'll be able to go over gains/losses and be able to make adjustments from there.
Dbeck002
New Member
Project89 said:
They are if the problem is not the typical over the internet response of the "AOD is just slow".
It could be more serious is all im saying, he should get it checked out.
Check these things before buying gears and advancing timing as everyone suggests.
Compression check.
Check the timing before you screw with it.
Tranny fluid.
Is there anything blocking your air intake? i.e paper bag, dead bird etc...
Whats it idle at?
TPS sensor @ .96 volts.
Is the water pump new or really old?
Can you tell if you are running very rich? Smell the exhaust for gasoline.
Smoke from the exhaust? If yes what color?
Are you running lean? Check the engine temp, does it go up really fast when you WOT?
Basic stuff first to name a few.
Dbeck002 said:
Tranny fluid = New
Intake = Not blocked
Idle is at about 800-850rpm.
Water pump looks new.. not leaking, etc.
No signs of running rich or lean.. and no smoke from tailpipes of any color.
Engine temp is normal, never spikes. Running 180 t-stat with taurus fan and dcc.
Haven't checked compression, tps voltage, or timing yet. And my only codes are relating to the smog pump (secondary air injection system inop)
Dbeck002
New Member
Since all of the above checked out,
one last thing to check is timing. If that checks out O.K... Than I suggest getting a couple mods to help out with the weight. Only if everything checks out should you begin to mod.
one last thing to check is timing. If that checks out O.K... Than I suggest getting a couple mods to help out with the weight. Only if everything checks out should you begin to mod.
Similar threads
