Will AC work after removal?
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Run the vacuum on the system while it's operating. If the system is overcharged with oil like my civic's was (it was converted with a walmart kit from the looks of it) then the extra oil gets entrained with the refrigerant (also does damage to the compressor) and is vacuumed out. I don't know exactly how their machine seperates the oil/refrigerant mix but it most like has a section to evap the refrigerant which just leaves the oil similar to an industrial A/C unit.
PuterAmI
Member
Oil is entrained in the refrigerant whether it is overcharged or properly charged with oil. It is the refrigerant that circulates the oil throughout the system.
Are you sure that you are not thinking of a recovery unit? It is what recovers the refrigerant while separating the oil and drying the moisture from the refrigerant. Yet, it will still not remove 9 ounces of oil. There could not be that many ounces suspended in the refrigerant. Plus, most recovery machines do not even have an oil tank that large.
I am still thinking someone pulled your leg.
Are you sure that you are not thinking of a recovery unit? It is what recovers the refrigerant while separating the oil and drying the moisture from the refrigerant. Yet, it will still not remove 9 ounces of oil. There could not be that many ounces suspended in the refrigerant. Plus, most recovery machines do not even have an oil tank that large.
I am still thinking someone pulled your leg.
They evacuated the system 4 or 5 times (not sure if they used a recovery unit or not since the system didn't have any refrigerant in it) and each time they got about 1.5oz to 2.0oz of oil out. They evacuated the system multiple times due to the amount of oil they pulled out, vent temps, and system pressures. Even then it would only pull about 55 degrees on an 85 degree day. I'll admit that I may be wrong on what they evacuated the system with but if you evacuate the system with just a vacuum while it is running you will get oil out of it. This I know because one of my kids decided to stick a screwdriver into the low pressure line valve and was promptly sprayed with oil and refrigerant. I've had one spray a bit when attaching my gauges to a fitting too.
PuterAmI
Member
Bladez5_0 said:
Your logic is faulty. The system was under pressure in both instances.
Your mechanic used a recovery machine to recover the refrigerant. At this time, the recovery machine separated the oil from the refrigerant.
Once a system is emptied, it is placed under a vacuum to boil out any moisture and prepare the system for a charge. A vacuum does not draw out any oil from the system.
I know this because I have been working with it for many years. You can also learn more about A/C systems and how to service them by studying for the EPA 609 MVAC certification. It is available online at...
http://www.epatest.com/
A vacuum works to remove refrigerant and moisture by causing them to boil and flash into a vapor. Oil is suspended in the refrigerant under normal circumstances, so it is removed with the refrigerant.
A vacuum would not remove any liquid that is more than a few inches from the vacuum source. Material that did not flash to a vapor and was in a remote location like the evaporator or condenser would not be removed.
PAG, POE and mineral oil all have boiling points way above 200 * Centigrade, which means they don't flash to a vapor and boil off, even when subjected to a vacuum at temperatures less that 100* centigrade. FYI, 100* Centigrade is 212* Fahrenheit.
In other words, is impossible to get the system hot enough and vacuum low enough to make all the oil flash into a vapor and be sucked out of an A/C system. The technician who started the process would cook himself and all the equipment from the 100*+ Centigrade heat.
A vacuum would not remove any liquid that is more than a few inches from the vacuum source. Material that did not flash to a vapor and was in a remote location like the evaporator or condenser would not be removed.
PAG, POE and mineral oil all have boiling points way above 200 * Centigrade, which means they don't flash to a vapor and boil off, even when subjected to a vacuum at temperatures less that 100* centigrade. FYI, 100* Centigrade is 212* Fahrenheit.
In other words, is impossible to get the system hot enough and vacuum low enough to make all the oil flash into a vapor and be sucked out of an A/C system. The technician who started the process would cook himself and all the equipment from the 100*+ Centigrade heat.
RaceDvr50
New Member
Just to throw in my 2 cents here, let me preface this by saying that I am 609 certified. One of the things mentioned when I was studying for the certification was that some of the oil could boil off and be captured in the vacuum and that is you didn't have a vac with an oil separator like the one I have that you should even make sure to check your oil level in your vac pump to make sure that you account for any oil removed from the system by the vacuum and replace it when charging the system.
I am also curious about your recovery system. What I have seen connects to the same service ports as your gauges so I don't see how it is much more likely to pull oil out of your system unless it were to allow the system to empty so fast that it carried out some oil in a surge (much like pushing in a schrader valve while the system is under pressure).
Once again jrichker beats my response in with a more clear and concise answer. Yeah, what he said
I am also curious about your recovery system. What I have seen connects to the same service ports as your gauges so I don't see how it is much more likely to pull oil out of your system unless it were to allow the system to empty so fast that it carried out some oil in a surge (much like pushing in a schrader valve while the system is under pressure).
Once again jrichker beats my response in with a more clear and concise answer. Yeah, what he said
Bringing one back from the dead... Am I ok to flush the system with mineral oil? I had read in another post that it was ok. Should I not be flushing the line with the orifice tube in it? Would this damage the tube? Is there a reason why the tube can not be replaced? Just trying to get some info for my own conversion before I do it. Lastly, am I ok to flush everything while it is still on the car? I'd prefer to not remove everything except break the lines and replace the o-rings, flush the compressor (which I will remove), and replace the drier.
thanks, Larry !!!!
thanks, Larry !!!!
THE ONLY THING WITH THE A/C IN THE MUSTANG IS THAT THE COMPRESSOR MIGHT FREEZ UP CAUSE OF THE BARRING IN IT SO U MAY HAVE TO GET A NEW COMPRESOR AND THE DRYIER WILL NEED TO BE RPLACE AND URS IS PROLLY R12 HOOK UP WHICH WILL NEED TO BE CONVERTED TO R134A WHICH COASTS LIKE 12 BUCKS SO ALL IN ALL YEAH U CAN AND U MIGHT NEED TO REPLACE SOME THINGS DRYIER IS 30 AND I HEAR U CAN FIND COMPRESSORS FOR 150 REMAN, SO YEAH U DEFF CAN I HAVE MINE OFF RIGHT KNOW DEBATING ABOUT HOOKING IT BACK UP AFTER I GET MY INTAKE ON OR NOT
Tetrachloroethylene is chlorinated brake cleaner. It is used by dry cleaners to dry clean your clothes. They may sell you some or tell you where to get it.superhuaman said:
There are too many mystery chemicals in the non chlorinated brake cleaner. The formula can vary greatly from one brand to another
PuterAmI
Member
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