At the junkyard they hauled in a V6 coupe w/ a good set of wheel/tires...its the 16"....and i doubt they will but would they work on my '66?
Will these wheels work in any way?
- Thread starter TireSmoknWindsr
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dodgestang
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TireSmoknWindsr said:
Sure they will, you will just have to plunk down a couple hundred dollars for the bolt on spacers which will effectively change the offset on the rims. If I recal correctly to put late model wheels on you need to get a one inch spacer. This is why you want the bolt on type of spacer.....the spacer gets bolted to the on, and torqued with lug nuts, and then the wheel gets bolted and torqued to the spacer which has another set of lugs on it.
I hadn't saw those for the 16" wheels i dont think...i thought they were all for like the GT wheels. maybe both though...my concern was whether that would work on my front suspension b/c i dont have a negative wedge kit or anything and they are generally needed w/ 16s...or is that with disc brakes? because i have drum all around.
What year coupe? Measure the backspacing on those wheels. You want 4.5 or 4.75 backspacing. You can have custom made spacers for about $140. I might be selling my spacers soon...they are 3/4" thick.
Shane
Shane
dodgestang
Active Member
TireSmoknWindsr said:
The problem with 16s is when the have the proper backspacing for an early mustang, if you a arm is in the stock location, many people have reported the rim hits the upper ball joint.....for those that have done the shelby a arm drop, its hit or miss...but most seem to clear ok.
dodgestang
Active Member
67efivert said:
Stock upper a arm is located in posistion 'x'
Shelby a arm mod moves it to positon "x-1 inch"
all though the mount on the spindle is the same, the angle from the shock tower to spindle is decreased, so the top of the ball joint sits slighly lower.
Neg Wedge moves the a arm to position "x - 1.75 (I think) inch"
This further flattens the angle the a arm sits at from the shock towers and alters the posistion of the ball joint to spindle enough to cause binding requireing a small wedge to be placed in the ball joint....this is also the optimal steering geometry.
dodgestang
Active Member
Randy'65 said:Why is it that when I mentioned this a couple weeks ago, I got blasted for it
One thing though, if it is oly a 7" wide rim, you don't have as much backspacing, so you may not have a problem, right?
I wasn't here a week ago.
I'm a new member
Yes, the problem is much less pronouced with the narrower rim one of the reaons some people run 16x8 in the rear and 16x7 in the front.
i understand what ur saying dodge but it didnt seem to help any on mine when i did it and also u got to think when the suspension articulates up and down its gonna go closer and farther away anyway like going over a speed bump at an angle one arm could move as much as 4 inches so its still possible fo it to hit the rim 
dodgestang
Active Member
67efivert said:i understand what ur saying dodge but it didnt seem to help any on mine when i did it and also u got to think when the suspension articulates up and down its gonna go closer and farther away anyway like going over a speed bump at an angle one arm could move as much as 4 inches so its still possible fo it to hit the rim
Agreed...that's the exact 'iffyness' left in the equation that made me chose to just go up to the 17s since I wanted to make sure I could get the widest wheel and the widest rubber possible under the fenders for performance.
