wiring diagram for 1968

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by 67rcks, Dec 16, 2008.


  1. 67rcks

    67rcks Member

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    Can anybody post a link for 1968 wiring diagram? All the diagrams for 68 I have found so far are unreadable (on the second page)
    #1
  2. Rusty67

    Rusty67 Well-Known Member

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    You might have better luck asking for the exact diagram you need.
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  3. Az Pete

    Az Pete Member

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  4. 67rcks

    67rcks Member

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    well I was looking for a 2-page wiring diagram. When "mustang wiring diagram" is typed to google it will find many of them but just for the 68 year 2nd page is unreadable
    #4
  5. HookandLadder

    HookandLadder Founding Member

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  6. 67rcks

    67rcks Member

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    mustangshop - they have the same (unreadable) file
    #6
  7. HookandLadder

    HookandLadder Founding Member

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    At work...try to scan my copy and post it this weekend.
    #7
  8. HookandLadder

    HookandLadder Founding Member

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    Don't have my copy of the 68. It is missing. Sorry.
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  9. BarnStang

    BarnStang Founding Member

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  10. l1k2gadd

    l1k2gadd New Member

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    What is it you are trying to troubleshoot, or are you building your own wiring harness? Is there a wire that you can't figure out where it is going or what it is supoposed to operate?
    #10
  11. 67rcks

    67rcks Member

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    I was looking at the heater wiring E10 diagram in Barnstang's link. Can anybody help me to locate the ground?
    #11
  12. BarnStang

    BarnStang Founding Member

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    Oh yea, that will get you. The ground is the heater control head plate. It needs to touch the dash...The fan switch case is the ground...I bet you have the control head out and the fan won't work?
    #12
  13. BarnStang

    BarnStang Founding Member

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    It does show the ground. Look closely at the switch in the picture-just to the right they show a ground symbol at the end.
    #13
  14. Tim65GT

    Tim65GT Active Member

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    The ground is the switch case which is fastened to the dash.
    #14
  15. 67rcks

    67rcks Member

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    Well I was wondering how to wire heater motor that never worked & I don't know if it is original to the car. It has "6-cyl" written on it too while I should have 67 v8 car with 68 wiring. The motor has male orange and female black wire, while both yelow and brown have female ends. But your "ground" explains everything.

    One more question - should the brown wire be hooked to the motor's black or orange wire?
    #15
  16. BarnStang

    BarnStang Founding Member

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    It's odd how they did it, the brown wire in the car harness goes to the orange wire on the motor, the yellow wire in the harness goes to the black wire on the motor.
    #16
  17. horseballz

    horseballz Member

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    Hey All,
    Resurrecting an old thread with some new questions concerning the diagrams that BarnStang was kind enough to post a link to. Specifically page #5 of 22. Please look at the area near the alternator and solenoid and note and trace wires numbered 655, 654, 37, 38A "and" the wire that I think is incorrectly labeled "3". This should show you the source of my confusion. I'm trying to determine why my "alt" gauge does not work and when I look the wires mentioned, I'm scratching my head. Especially with the fact that 655 & 654 that go to the "alt" gauge appear to originate/connect together at the alternator/solenoid end? Any help and/or guidance will be appreciated. This diagram (from other sources also) and one other hard to read one seem to be the only ones out there for a 68.
    Thanks,
    Gene
    #17
  18. mustangmutt

    mustangmutt Member

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    The Alt gauge measures differences in current flow. One wire #654 is spliced to the alternator Batt feed and the other #655 connects to the Batt post in the Starter relay (solenoid). When the alternator charges there is a higher current signal at the Alt then there is at the solenoid. The gauge measures this difference and uses it to indicate if the car is charging or not. The difference is usually so slight that the gauge hardly recognizes it. Circuit #3 is very short and I guess it changes at the splice to #37 which feeds the Fuse box. Or, if it is a incorrectly labeled, it came that way from Ford.

    <a href="http://s1081.photobucket.com/albums/j355/ejkustomotive/68%20schematic/?action=view&amp;current=68schematic001.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j355/ejkustomotive/68%20schematic/68schematic001.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    This picture is from an original Ford Electrical Schematic Book.
    #18
  19. horseballz

    horseballz Member

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    mustangmutt,
    That is the exact schematic I was referring to. Definitely different for 67, Maybe I'll check a 69 for $h!t$ & giggles. I read somewhere (long ago while my car was not running) about some sort of shunt or something that needed to be there for the gauge to work? Even with a severe discharge or recharging and nearly dead battery, the gauge does virtually NADA.
    Thanx,
    Gene
    #19
  20. mustangmutt

    mustangmutt Member

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    If you really want to see that needle move try disconnecting #655 from the relay and extend it inside the car and connect it to the power supply at the ign switch.
    #20

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