Electrical Wiring For E-fan

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by lxman, Jun 6, 2013.


  1. lxman

    lxman Member

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    I'm going to put my new radiator with e-fans in tomorrow and was wondering if any of the wiring guess had any preference for a good 12v source and a good koeo source? Thanks guys!
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  2. 88LX5.Oh

    88LX5.Oh Advanced Member

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    12v source should always be the battery or the solenoid in my opinion.
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  3. mikestang63

    mikestang63 Mustang Master

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    Use the search function. There are many threads on how to wire it up. You want to use at a min 10g wires and I recommend soldering and shrink wrapping all of the connections. A good key on source is either the purge cannister or the coolant overflow. For 12v run it to the battery or battery side of the solenoid with a 40 amp megafuse inline. What controller and fan setup are you using.
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  4. lxman

    lxman Member

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    It's a older be cool set up with dual e-fans and the probe on fins of the radiator. I did look through the tech threads and and didn't find anything for the actual wiring of the fans. I only found just putting them in the stock shroud.
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  5. mikestang63

    mikestang63 Mustang Master

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    This should get you pointed in the right direction. What controller or relay setup are you using.


    http://forums.corral.net/forums/gen...01-taurus-fan-flex-lite-33054-vsc-how-do.html
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  6. lxman

    lxman Member

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    I ended up figuring it out thanks for the help bud
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  7. mikestang63

    mikestang63 Mustang Master

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    np. glad you got it handled.
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  8. jrichker

    jrichker StangNet's favorite TOOL SN Certified Technician Founding Member

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    If you don't have a high current alternator, you can forget about using an electric fan. The stock 65 amp alternator on 86-93 Mustangs isn't big enough to run the fan and the rest of the car. If you have a 94 or later Mustang, the stock 3g alternator should be fine if it is working correctly.

    Switching a fan on and off manually is a bad idea. Too many guys have been distracted (hot girl kissing on their neck, too much to drink, dog tired and not thinking clearly) and cooked things because they forgot to flip the switch. An equal number have forgotten to turn the switch off for the same reasons and run down their battery.

    The best fan controller available today is a DC Control unit. www.dccontrol.com. Cost is about $???. Be prepared to wait 4 weeks or more to receive your controller once you have sent in your payment. The controllers are custom made in small lots and lead times can stretch out.

    Next best is a SPAL controller - $70-$120 See http://www.spalusa.com/store/Main.aspx?html=pwmv3. eBay will have the controllers for a bargain price: do a Google search and see what you find.

    At the bottom are the Hayden or Imperial controllers available through Advance Discount Auto Parts and AutoZone. The non adjustable one is about $30 ( Hayden 226206) and the adjustable one is about $60 (Hayden 226204). I recommend you do a Google search on Hayden and the part number for more info.

    Do not use a simple on/off switch without using a relay. The current load can burn up the typical cheap automotive switch very quickly. The fan draws 30+amps and you need to use #10 wire on the fan power and ground wiring.

    If you are good with electrical stuff (90% of the people here aren't), build your own controller. The numbers on the diagram (#86, #87, etc) refer to the numbers on the bottom of a typical automotive relay.

    [​IMG]

    Note that the temp sensor in the diagram needs to match the thermostat in your engine. The preferred arrangement is to have it open about 5 degrees above the thermostat.

    To allow the ignition switch to control the fan so that it does not run when the ignition is off, connect the relay contact #86 to the red/green wire on the ignition coil or to the red/yellow wire on the coolant level sensor.

    If you are an experienced electronics tech or electrical engineer, email me and I will send you the prototype drawings of a fan controller that is similar in function to the DC Control unit. It is a build it, troubleshoot it yourself item. I will not build or troubleshoot units, so it is not suitable for anyone who isn't really good with electronics.
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