would you suggest going carb?

The MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure) and BAP sensor (barometric absolute pressure) look identical to each other. Easy to tell apart thought - the MAP sensor will have a line connecting it to the manifold so it can read that pressure; the BAP sensor only has the computer connection to it; the port that you'd hook the line to on the MAP is left open so it can sense barometric pressure.

You're probably gonna have better luck looking for something local Chuck - certainly makes the logistics easier. Besides, sounds like for what you're looking for (cheap runner), you're gonna want to take a long close look at it before you buy.
 
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Michael- That is not the system on the cobra I saw. That one is completely sequential whereas the one I saw had four injectors inside the TB itself and didn't have the MAF seen in those pictures (we took the breather off). If I'm not mistaken it was a MAP on the firewall as I clearly remember a vac line coming off that joker and plugging on the intake. Could we be thinking of different cobras? If so, would the TB injection be worth a shot compaired to sequential systems or carb systems? I know GM can put down some good power and they make these 1-200 dollar computer jiggys that plug into the factory harness deal that you can mess with all the settings here and there for it. Seems sort of logical to me to use as long as you arnt using a vacume robbing cam.

Chuck
 
Chuck - I'm going by what Marc told me - he's the one that gave me the link I just gave you; he said that was the system on a Cobra that came in the shop. If you've had more than one efi Cobra in the shop, perhaps there are one of each. Other than that, I don't know anymore about it

I suppose it's personal choice - with sequential mass air available, as I said before, I wouldn't bother with speed density or throttle body injection. But that's just my preference. Faced with a choice between throttle body injection and a carb, I'd probably pick a carb.
 
85_SS_302_Coupe said:
I cheated....it's a different car. I'm hardcore, i didnt swap setups, i swapped cars...lol

Lol, yeah the harness is the hard part to get anyeverything wired correctly. I ended up bring mine to a wireSHOP and spending some $$ to get it done right. Now it's sweet. I'll definetly go carb on my VERT (next car) when I get it.
 
everything i said is directed at street cars! you daily drivers out there with holleys, do you drive them when it's 35-45 deg and raining? how about that 200 rpm idle and the raw gas dripping out of the tail pipes? (seen this on 3 friends cars and 3 personal motors and 4 holleys)
personaly seen a gt40 head w/ E303 cam car pick up 6 mph in the quarter by just converting to a GT40 intake 65mm tb & 73mm c&l. oh, by the way, the fulie combo was light years faster on the street.
i must be getting old.....
 
Used mine everyday last fall. Cold mornings, thunderstorms, etc... My idle was fine (no gas coming out of exhaust). Never had a problem with the carb. As for fuel; my car (3:73 gears + 4 banger T5, stock 5.0 except for 650cfm carb) cost me 30$ a week in gas... my ZX2 2.0L Zetec (Stock) cost me 40$ a week in gas! Keep in mind this car is geared pretty low and if I had some highway to do, it would have taken more fuel than the ZX2.
 
Daily driven in the NEW ENGLAND WINTER, parked outside, cold started with no choke, no complaints. 300 mile hauls in the mountains, hauling my worldly posessions every semester for 2 years..in the snow.

If thats not extreme, I dont know what is. Word.

Dont worry, lesser carbs than these current marvels of engineering powered cars for almost 100 years in rain and snow and street driving when streets were dirt roads. Todays carbs are truly the pinnacle of carb tech.

oh....

To get rid of the gas in tailpipe effect, close the idle circuit and raise the idle speed and run off primaries. 1200 rpm idle == clean tailpipes. The 200 rpm idle tells me he has over cammed and the low low vacuum is causing the power valve to flutter open, flooding the engine with gas at idle.

Gooooooood luck!
 
crazypete said:
Daily driven in the NEW ENGLAND WINTER, parked outside, cold started with no choke, no complaints. 300 mile hauls in the mountains, hauling my worldly posessions every semester for 2 years..in the snow.

If thats not extreme, I dont know what is. Word.

Dont worry, lesser carbs than these current marvels of engineering powered cars for almost 100 years in rain and snow and street driving when streets were dirt roads. Todays carbs are truly the pinnacle of carb tech.

oh....

To get rid of the gas in tailpipe effect, close the idle circuit and raise the idle speed and run off primaries. 1200 rpm idle == clean tailpipes. The 200 rpm idle tells me he has over cammed and the low low vacuum is causing the power valve to flutter open, flooding the engine with gas at idle.

Gooooooood luck!

my cars. 1 was stock cam w/ fms 1.72. 2nd was kaufmann 212 @.050
friends cars. stk cam, e303,b303,f303.
i don't claim to be an expert on holleys but, we played with everything and i do mean everything. car ran best with the stk 6.5 valve. idle was 1000
some notes:
1st. as soon as the rain turned to snow, the car ran great.(oh, and my car started on the coldest day in mich in the last 20 years (-27 with wind chill)
open air cleaner, no choke, no fast idle, ect.
2nd. edelbrock carbs never had the cold/wet problem. just expensive to tune.
 
Well, I just dumped the EFI setup on my 89. Cost was a big factor in my case.

Like others, I sold my EFI stuff on EBay and have more than enough for a decent Carb'd setup + for other mods.

Now I need to find info on choosing/matching a Carb/Cam/Intake to match my Thumper heads on my 347 Stroker!!

Help!!!