Your Engine Compartment!!!

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by sburkey1967, Sep 28, 2007.

  1. Rusty67

    Rusty67 Well-Known Member

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    I went back and looked at the TCP website. The hardest part to make would the the aluminum clamps that hold the extra pair of braces into the montycarlo bar. The rest are straight forward brackets with hiem joints and strut rods.
     
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  2. Shakin66

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    I just got mine back from the shop yesterday. I only thought I had a great looking engine compartment......All I can say is good work guys!
    <a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d6/scatpro/Picture040.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>
     
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  3. Tim65GT

    Tim65GT Active Member

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    Funny, I just got mine in the mail yesterday, when I laid the Export Brace over the shock tower - it was 1/2"!

    I jacked up the front and put a Jack stand under the crossmember. I removed the 3 bolts on each side for the monte carlo bar and it is about 1/4 - 1/2 shy of fitting.

    I did get the Export bace to fit in place though. I'll try the monte carlo bar again tonight.
     
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  4. snottystang

    snottystang New Member

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    I have a quick question regarding engine color. I bought the Light Blue engine enamel from Canadian mustang as they said it was used in most cars up to 73. When I hold it up to my engine, it looks wrong. My engine looks like it's a darker blue, which they sell as well. I would hate to use the paint once to find out it's the wrong color and have to buy the darker blue. Any suggestions?
     
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  5. 65ShelbyClone

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    There is usually "Old Ford Blue" and just "Ford Blue" engine enamels. The "Old Ford Blue" is typically the lighter shade.
     
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  6. jcode68

    jcode68 Active Member

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    I personally prefer the darker blue, especially if you have natural aluminum and or chrome pieces in the engine bay. But I believe either is acceptible for use on the classics.
     
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  7. jerry S

    jerry S New Member

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    This is the finished product. Only needs an engine now.

    View of the bay from the passenger's side

    [​IMG]

    view of the bay from the driver's side

    [​IMG]

    view from the front

    [​IMG]
     
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  8. BullittStangV8

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    Nice. that looks very clean and well done.
     
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  9. Steel123

    Steel123 Banned

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    if you look in the first picture posted, the location of the thermostat housing neck is straight up into my monte carlo bar.....anybody have suggestions, with the serpentine setup and monte carlo bar in mind ( I can always just loose the monte carlo bar but I don't want to! hehe), as to what I can do to clear this? I really want to use the cool flex hose but don't think it will clear with the current setup. Thanks
     
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  10. garner67

    garner67 New Member

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    Here's what I started with...
    [​IMG]

    Lots of metal work...
    [​IMG]

    Current...
    [​IMG]
     
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  11. Joe95StangGT

    Joe95StangGT New Member

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    Here is what i Just finished on saturday. and Before anyone says I ruined a K, My father has owned this car since Jan of 1967, removed the K engine that summer and put his drag engine in the car, then cut the shock towers in 1970 to slide a 351C 4v engine in there. No modifications were done since 1970, cept for cutting of the fan shroud for the new radiator, but he had cut it back in 70, so a regular 66 rad. wouldn't have fit.


    66 Fastback K-code, 58k original miles, never restored

    427 Windsor stroker engine

    AFR 225 heads

    Weber induction system

    long tubes, lots of ceramic coating

    Custom strut bar (mounts in factory locations, no cutting or welded required)


    [​IMG]
     
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  12. Pbum5

    Pbum5 Member

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    Always liked Panteras!!
     
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  13. Steven Rupp

    Steven Rupp New Member

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  14. bnickel

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    looks good Steve!!!! :nice:
     
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  15. ingtor

    ingtor New Member

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    Engine compartment

    Here is my engine.
    347 / Novi 2000
    [​IMG]
     
    #95
  16. truck90278

    truck90278 New Member

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    If you go to "Speedway" (similar to summit) they happen to carry the Aluminum swagged bars with right and left threads, which appear identical to the bars used in TCP's braces and they are significantly cheaper than what TCP gets for theirs, you do have to add in the cost for heim ends and making the brackets.
     
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  17. 70dvr

    70dvr New Member

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    I've been experimenting with Metalcast paint. So far I've done the valve covers and the radiator cover.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  18. iskwezm

    iskwezm Advanced Member

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    Are you making that power on a stock block??????:eek:
     
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  19. 4MuscleMachines

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    Is that an out of the box Paxton blow thru carb hat or is it modified?
     
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  20. ingtor

    ingtor New Member

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    My engine

    Hello again.

    Are you making that power on a stock block??????

    The block is a Mexican with a girdle and o-ringed. The 733 HP run on the engine dyno was an "accident". Very lean. I have too small injectors ( 42 pounds ). As it is now, it can be safely turned to 5500 rpm. Still makes 654 Hp and 625 lbft. Plain AFR 185 heads and a edelbrock rmp hydraulic flat tapped cam ( no roller ). Weiand Xcelerator inntake that I converted to EFI.

    Is that an out of the box Paxton blow thru carb hat or is it modified?

    This is the hat that came with the kit. It was for a Chevy vortec engine. ( hard to come by used speedparts in Norway ). So i had to plug the 2 holes for extra injectors and mount the bypass valve to it. Works ok on an 4-hole throttle body. I dont think it will work god on a carb application. To low and to much turbulence I think. I had to fabricate the brackets for the supercharger.
     
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