Zex nitrous kit install

MadHandle8169

Founding Member
May 5, 2002
432
0
0
Brick, NJ
I will be buying the zex nitrous kit shortly for my car and I was wondering if anyone can give me a quick run down on the install who has done it themselves. I am planning on putting it in with the help of my dad and he wants to know whats involved in the install before I buy the kit. So any help is appreciated. Also if Im running a 75-100 shot I am going to get colder plugs and retard the timing. Is there any other safety precautions I should take. Such as a window switch? Any help is appreciated thanks!
:spot: :banana:
 
  • Sponsors (?)


A window switch is much more of a necessity on a wet kit IMO, since you don't want to spray too early and risk puddling in the intake...but it might be a good idea with a dry kit also since you could set it to where it was impossible to be on the spray if you redline the engine by accident.

I hear the install is very simple on the Zex kit. I remember seeing a post from a guy who had it, and he said the first time was the most time consuming simply because he didn't know where everything went and had to refer to the directions, but after that he could have the kit off the car in less than 10 mins and have it installed again in under 30.

Good luck!
 
Figuring out where to mount everything will probably take you the longest. Save yourself some time and get some lag bolts to use when mounting the tank brackets.

Wiring:

You have to run a power supply and ground to the contol box. You also have to run one wire to your tps and one wire into the cab to your arming switch. On the other side of the switch you will have to run it to an auxilary power supply.

Lines:

You then have to run one nitrous line from the bottle to the control box, and one from the control box to somewhere before the throttle body. (you will have to drill and tap a hole) Then you have two vacuum lines to run. One of the lines goes from the FPR to your box and the other is from your box back to a vaccum source.

If you have an MSD box with retard control you can splice into the wire that goes to the arming switch and when you arm it the car will go retarded, i mean timing. :lol:

Thats about it..
 
*Make sure your timing is set at 10 degrees.
*Install 1 step colder plugs (I used Autolite 23's).
I routed my SS lines (from front to back) through the frame rail.
*Make sure the nozzle opening is facing directly into the TB.
*Don't use bad gas when spraying.
*Mount your bottle with the knob facing the front of the car.
*Never spray under 3K rpms or you will be sorry. :bang:
*Try not to spray when your engine is hot (i.e. from traffic driving).
I used a WOT switch so all you have to do is back off the pedal a little to disengage the spray.
Here is where I mounted my solenoids, if you want to be discreet though mount them behind the plenum on the firewall. :nice:
attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • n20setup.jpg
    n20setup.jpg
    56.3 KB · Views: 735
94SC50 said:
I used a WOT switch so all you have to do is back off the pedal a little to disengage the spray.

Thats what the zex control unit does when its hooked up to the TPS sensor. You set the box to the WOT tps voltage and your done. Zex is a very easy and dumby proof system.
 
It's not a no-no :nonono: but in heat some cars like mine like to detonate. Especially after sitting in traffic for 30 minutes or so and then try to spray someone, if you detonate at WOT you will be sorry you did. It may be possible to avoid it for awhile but n2o will eventually make you pay.

I was a certified nos addict before my blower install, at least (1) 15lb bottle during the week and then 2 more on the weekends. I did that from 129K to 148K.
 
lol... thats funny... I filled my 10lb bottle up twice in two years and had to release half of a bottle into the air before i shipped it...

If i had a stronger block i would have kept it (converted it to a wet kit).