Currently, I have a belt squeal coming from what i assume is the belt. I bought a belt for underdrive pulleys and a smog and ac bypass. Has anyone experienced any issues with the belt routing with the 2 bypasses? I did buy the steering pump re locator just in case. Should I do the underdrives right now and risk that clearance from from belt or wait till that delete re locator comes in?

Anyone happen to know the specs of the weather stripping used for the doors and the hatch/ trunk , at this point I'd rather just buy bulk rolls vs the pre cut kits from the mustang shops.

Hello all. Several questions here. Decided to replace my rear main bearing seal ('76 302 out of a Mustang II). Luckily the engine is still on the engine stand and our new Tremec TKX is not yet attached. So, we rolled it over, pulled the oil pan, and removed the bearing cap. The seal came out relatively easily. Normally the rear bearing cap on these engines has a small pin that keeps the the seal from spinning. Ours is missing.
So missing pin questions - How important is that pin? Can I install a new seal without the pin? If not, is it possible to get a pin and reinstall it? See picture.

Then we noticed the dark coloring on the bearing and what looks like a chip in one corner.
So bearing condition questions - Should we be concerned with the dark coloration? and Is that chip by design to keep the bearing from spinning?

All thoughts, opinions, and suggestions greatly appreciated!
Thanks.

Hi folks. My 93 lx 5.0 needs a new TFI module. I’m searching around I only see motor craft making one for ‘manual’ transmissions. I have an automatic.

Does this matter? I’ve read the performance ones really don’t do much and my car is mostly stock exhaust for high flow cats, cat back exhaust and air filter.

Thanks for the help!

I have a 1993 mustang, can anyone help me how to bypass the amp.

Hi all:

I recently just purchased a high torque mini starter from LMR (link: https://lmr.com/item/LRS-11002B/92-95-Mustang-50L-Pmgr-Style-Replacement-Starter). When I tried to remove my current starter, I realized mine has a three-bolt setup as opposed to the starter I bought, which has only two bolts.

Does anyone know if these two starters are interchangeable, meaning I would only mount the two bolts and leave a empty hole on the bell housing?

I have a 1988 2.3 vert.

Thank you!!

Alright. Replaced the compressor, lines and dryer. Pulled a vac for 2+ hours. Let stand for another hour , vac held.

Put 2 12oz cans in, pressure would read like 50 or 60 on the low side when the cam was connected, disconnected the can, and pressure was dropping down to like 20. Ac was blowing cold, orifice tube looked like it would frost over. I was expecting to see closer to 30 psi . Wasn’t sure if this was because of needing more r134a or because the ambient temp is like 45 right now.

Looking for real world reviews on what you've used. Searching the net, reviews are all over the place. Kilmat,Noico,Hushmat,Dynamat,etc. I have a vert' so it's not exactly quiet,but some heat insulation would be nice,especially with the turbo downpipe.

I have a factory hardtop from a 95 convertible hardtop. Only 499 were made.

Just getting back to building my 68 Fastback...Thread Here
Reading everything I can...
Deciding, very reluctantly, to pop the 163 welds on the cowl to check (and repair? replace?) the tray underneath

The I saw this <Click here for Link if needed>:

A cowl panel without the grill.
Gotta admit - I kind of teared up with the simplicity and beauty of it (and the problems it solves).
Why was the grill there in the first place? <I assumed air flow during rain would make visibility treacherous>

What are the cons of doing this?

Is this a custom part or does someone stamp them?

I have an explorer intake and since I’m doing a few more upgrades like heads and a cam I’m trying to figure out if I’m going to need a spacer if I run these injectors from LMR.

Some say they needed a spacer because of the adapters but others didn’t mention anything. Does anyone have any experience with these injector adapters and an explorer intake? Id prefer to not have to run one if at all possible. Any info is greatly appreciated

I am running a 351w (427) speed density car with no EGR, 90mm TB, trickflow intake, deleted smog, deleted A/C. Anyways, I just set put in a new wideband O2 sensor, new PCV, new vacuum lines. Now there is a whinning sound (From crankcase pressure). The line is clear (I can blow through it easily), filter is new, even tried a second one.

Anyways, after about10 seconds the preasure builds, whines louder. When I pull the oil cap the pressure leaves and the whine stops. The idle stays the same when that happens.

What is the cause? I have heard bend rod or valve. Clogged system (But I don't think so). Revs fine, no engine ticks (Outside of the Ford tick). Plugs, wires, oil are all new as well.

I heard don't do a breather as well as you can run a breather. Maybe I should run a hose from the oil cap (Trick flow already have a spot for one) to the intake??? I feel a breather would work but will it really. Is there a bigger problem at hand.

The motor has like 1000 miles on it. Let me know what you all say/think.

Thanks

I have a 1999 mustang gt v8 4.6 anniversary addition..anti theft has shut everything down and i have tried everything the dealership wont take anything over 10 years old and its costing me a lot of money and no success if i get another pcm put in will it fix the issue or will they have to reflash the car as well..please help

I recently removed my battery to clean the tray and surrounding area of coolant (had a hose blow up a few weeks prior). I put the battery back in, started it up, and drove to the gas station. After i tried turning it back on, it just made a rapid clicking noise. Got a jump, started right up. So now its only starting when I jump it, its starting right up and running decent, a little low on voltage though according to the dash. I think I must have broken some connection when i was taking out the battery, theres a lot of brittle wires near the solenoid. The battery is at 12.6 V when the car is off. Around 12 V when running, and around 14 when I rev it up a little. So all this tells me that: Alternator, battery, and starter are all good. I took off the negative battery cable while it was running to check the alternator and it died immediately, but im still gaining voltage when i rev it. Im very confused now and not super good with wiring can someone point me in the direction of what i should check next?

Question ladies and gents. So just transformed my 94 Cobra and took out the 280 plus stock engine and put in my 190k HCI 302 from my other car, took the suspension components off as well and went with a new set of wheels. Before my 95 got hit in 2015 I had recently maybe a yr or 2 prior had front suspension work done (ball joints, bushings and sway bar endlinks) and also put on J&M rear lower control arms. I have eibach lowering springs and tokiko hp blue struts and shocks, and also put on my Hotchkis CC plates from the other car. I can't remember if the 95 had that same feel to it like what this car feels like for instance when changing lanes it feels sorta stiffer to move and not like as smooth per say or maybe it just doesn't have any play and that's just the way these cars are. I don't drive any of my cars enough to really monitor or remember from one car to the next rather they all feel like that or not but I do know what slop is and it's not loose or anything.

Also changed from the 95 to this 94 is I had Saleen 18 x 9 with 265 35 18 on front and 18x10 with 295 35's. Now I have Forgestar F14 18 x 9 semi deep concave with 275 35 18 and 18 x 11 super deep concave with 315 30 18s. Not sure if those changes alone also would make a difference in the feel and more stiff?

Update:
Well as I stated I think I stated that I might have been tripping and because I don't drive the car that often, on the way home trying several things it's fine I guess I was tripping LOL

Introduction of build:
So ----started a build around 2008---had a really Long build thread with Pics on another site - Got Lost to Time.
Dang it.
Stopped build around 2013 = Life.
Now - Have a 15 year old kiddo <girl> that wants to finish build it and drive it to Skool. AWESOME!
So this summer will be a press to get it back together - will document in this thread.


Here are the details (Or what I thought in 2008): <Pulled relevant Excerpt to here>
-2 prior owners (2nd owner never drove it and immediately began dissassembly).
-True 'barn find' ... well shed really.
-The car is FULLY documented...I even have pictures dated March 1968 with the owners hand writing on the back about adding a shelby spoiler (He must've never got around to it). (and all protectoplate stuff and manuals)
- Original: 'J-Code' 302-4 barrel, Highland Green, 3.25 axle ratio, 3-Speed Manual, GT Equip Group, AC, AM Radio, Reflective Group, Remote LH Mirror, Wheel Lip Moulding, Electric Clock.
-Aside from the second owner taking the engine, tranny, and font clip off (I have them) this car is 100% complete. The engine looks like it did in 1968 (It's just rustier and not in the car).
- VERY minor rust issue in the lip of the trunk. No other rust on the vehicle that I could find. Right side looks like he drug a highway marker or something down it and did a basic repair and cheap-o repaint.
...Reading the above ---yikes was I wrong about the rust and body work...

Here are some pics:
1968 State:





My 'Start' State:







My start

Was looking on the used market and I found a good deal for valve springs. These are them new https://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-16315-16. I was just woundering if I put these springs with a mild cam shaft like an e303/ stage one cam equivalent or even the stock HO cam is this bad? Will this cause execrated wear or will it actually help even with a mild cam?

Hey guys I have a a 2002 mustang gt. it’s FBO WITH TRICKFLOW STAGE 2 CAMS. Dyno tuned. I’m running into some fuel problems I guess and with that code I also have a random misfire which is P0300. I’m hoping to see if the p1237 code is the reason why I’m misfiring. Already did spark plugs with ngk iridium’s, new fuel pump/filter, fuel pump regulator maybe I’m missing a ground? I haven’t checked fuel injectors yet…If any of you guys have any input let me hear it, cus I’m been wrestling with this for like two months and working on it everyday haven’t seem to find the issue yet or if anyone has had experience with this I’m probly forgot some things I’m sure it’ll get asked

Also here’s a clip of the fuel pressure it dances around between 40 then drops down to 10 then will go above 80 sometimes then will shut off

So I had problems with my 08 gt, I get gas, it says it has more the it does, and when it gets to 3/4s on the gauge the needle goes down and says low fuel. Now I thought this was an easy fix so I did two things, I got my color gauges and I got a new sending unit. The only thing that’s changed is I now know 65 miles till E is a lie…. I have not found someone with a suitable starting place or a fix, can someone help a brother out?

91' all original equipment. Pulled the codes due to Check engine light being on. Found the following: (Key on only)- code 22 - MAP/BAP out of test range.
Engine running - 21 ECT out of test range, 41 HEGO system lean right, 91 system lean left, 33 EGR valve open not detected.

I do not have any testing info for these sensors. I'm wondering if code 22 could be the leading cause to all the other codes?

Where should I start?

How do I clear the codes?

Mouse91gt

Mustang5L5 submitted a new resource:

Ford CD Changer Operating Guide - Ford OE CD Changer install

CD changer operating guide for Ford E9LF CD changer

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Read more about this resource...

Mustang5L5 submitted a new resource:

Ford CD Changer Install Guide 87-92 - Ford OE CD Changer install manual

Install Guide for F1ZF-18814-AA RF Modulated CD changer kit

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Read more about this resource...

Power locks were working fine in my 91 lx…… now all of a sudden the drivers door switch is not working at all, and the passenger side switch will only unlock both doors, but won’t lock, it clicks like it wants to but won’t lock…… any ideas where to start? Thanx

So I just pulled the codes from the computer on my 92 Mustang 5.0 and I got a code 96, which is a "fuel pump secondary circuit failure". Can someone tell me what the fuel pump secondary circuit is? Is this a part that can be replaced? Is it a relay? What is a "secondary circuit"? And will this circuit failure cause poor fuel mileage?

Looking for a trick flow lower intake for a 302. Street burner, track heat or even an R lower will work.