Mstng93SSP said:

I have bent and destroyed 3 putty knives do far....

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Thats crazy..... Any heat used yet?

Noises I have heard when bringing cars back from the dead.. Seat belt buzzers, fuel pumps, Door open buzzers... Best one was the lights on my turn signal indicators were on but did not blink....
Turned out to be my emergency flashers turned on with a bad flasher on my 77 stepside...

Couple updates/plan..

Got a factory 89 EVTM wiring diagram (finally!)
Got the full 89 harness (main, injector and O2) with A9L.
Coolant temp sensor wires are short, need to extend
TPS has to have the plug swapped to the 94 plug
EGR stuff gets taped back (smog and EGR removed)
EGR ports on back of head blanked using $2 worth of bolts from Lowes
EGR port on intake getting blocked using 351 fuel pump block off plate
Low oil level wire taped back (not used in Monster Miata swap pan)
Intake air temp wires reach stock location, which on a 94 intake has to be drilled (3/8" NPT)
Miata OEM temp sender goes in Fox location (with thread adapter) in the thermostat housing, that's also drill and tapped. Wiring independent of the Fox (wire to Miata factory gauge)
Oil pressure sender (using a VDO unit that works with the 95 dummy gauge, based off the NB dummy gauge conversion kit at Moss Motors) gets remote located, NPT to AN line, that also routes to Miata dash independent of Mustang harness
TFI, using the McCully racing relocation kit for the SN95.. so basically replicates the SN95 configuration, using SN95 distributor. TFI will be remote mounted with heat sink, hooks into SN95 distributor pigtail and Fox harness.
MSD 6AL gets wired in like they normally do
Starter wiring uses body/Miata wires, remote mount solenoid is gone (using SN95 starter)
Low pressure adjustable FPR goes away, running stock Miata fuel pump for EFI motor
Running alternator only (no PS, AC or Air pump). Cut the Alt bracket off below mounting points
Swapping the idler to a grooved unit. Going to try Gates 36230 which has same inner bore, mounted using either hacked down stock mount or maybe an aftermarket idler only if I can can't make it work.
So accessory belt will run Crank, Alt, Idler, water pump with factory tensioner.

I think that is it for now...

The first thing I'd do is check for leaks or fuel smell, cause you certainly don't want to have a fire after just getting it back. Is your FPG a mechanical one? Maybe pull the fuse for the fuel pump so it does not come on and see if the sound in front is still present and that will tell you if it is related to the fuel system or not.

The Ford service manuals have you soak the lifters in oil (course they are not checking for pushrod length)
You are supposed to disassemble the lifter and take the spring out or better yet use a solid lifter
The lifter plungers travel ,200 IIRR
You will find reduced travel lifters with plungers that move only .109", considered anti-pump up lifters, made to eliminate valve float

Stock fan. I've pulled codes. Nothing outta the ordinary. Smog stuff, it's been deleted. It has new coolant temp sensor, tps, and aic. I've replaced the thing on the side of the dizzy. (Can't think of the name) And a new msd coil. Cap and rotor are msd as well.

Have a question fellas. I have not had a chance to look into this or actually look into my car at all since getting it home. But one thing that I noticed was that when I sat in the car and turned the key to on I could always hear my fuel pump in the rear come on. Well I heard it come on like normal but what wasn't normal was the sound I also heard coming from in front of me.

I don't know how to explain it, but it was a sound I've never heard before. I don't know if it was the sound of fuel pressurizing running to the engine or what. I do have a T-Rex pusher installed for my S-Trim and also have a fuel pressure gauge installed in my cowl vent. So while sitting in my front seat the sound comes from somewhere in front of me. Any ideas what might be going on? I plan to look into it this weekend if I have some spare time.

Now I'm curious how mine is hooked up.

Just got the car rolled out the garage and shown some love after a little over 3 years. Slow but steady its getting there

The differences are the transmission harness under the car, the o2 sensor harness, and the computer. Without modification the reverse lights won't work. If a 5 speed computer is used the jumper in the o2 harness should be swapped around. You don't have to source new harnesses but will need a t5 reverse switch pig tail for the side of the trans. O2 sensor harness can have the wires swapped around but don't do it unless changing the computer. Computer isn't necessary but makes it a little easier to drive.

I have bent and destroyed 3 putty knives do far....

When I first started working on cars I ised Permatex Super High Tack. Looked like yellow snot. I stopped using it the first time I has to remove something that stuff had glued together. Used a spackle knife and a hammer. Cussed the whole time.

General karthief said:

Man, need a better pic........is the glass coming outta the rubber?
What year is the car?

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No, that rubber crap is just pealing off. It’s 1990

limp said:

Were you around for the " Dial up" days of internet??

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Yup. Sure was. I was around before home computers.

It may be a '90.

And word on the street is it's stock.

Man, need a better pic........is the glass coming outta the rubber?
What year is the car?

You’re lucky enough to have a Notch because they reproduce the windows for your car with the “mustang” script on the glass if your able and willing to drop 700 bucks. Big coin but saves the trouble of trying to refinish them depending on your skill level plus you get new glass as well. Just another option to think about.

PS: I love those old school key scratch guards! Very nostalgic!

That snotty yeller sht used to be all you could get never had an issue but then ...........