I have the trans out and on the bench. I have the downloaded PFD of the WC t5 and have followed it thru a few steps. I noticed I will need a few more hand tools to complete the task. I need to know are there any special tools need for rebuilding?? I know I'll need a press for the bearing, but hand type tools that make the job easy?? It looks like a set of snap ring plyers are in order. Any other items that will help?? Thanks
Special tools for t5 rebuild?
- Thread starter sweet88gt
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Snap ring pliers, a pin punch to drive out the roll pins, a 3-jaw puller, Couple bottls of ATF for rinsing parts, petroleum jelly for the 15 roller bearings inside the input shaft....
That's all i really used other than basic 15mm wrenched for the tailhousing and other misc sizes.
Biggest thing is organization. I would remove one group of parts and put the peices into a zip-lock back and keep them together. I've seen some guys put everything in one box and then not know what washer went with 2nd gear and so on. With the zip-lock method, when you are putting 2nd gear back on, you have all the parts that came off with it.
You'll find the mainshaft does disassemble like this. You remove a snap ring and one group of parts comes off and stays together. Then you move onto the next snap ring and so on.
It's pretty easy really. Just take your time and be organized. Taking lots of pics the first time through does help as well. I have a few hundred pics on my comp that i routinely go back to when helping other guys with probs during rebuilds
That's all i really used other than basic 15mm wrenched for the tailhousing and other misc sizes.
Biggest thing is organization. I would remove one group of parts and put the peices into a zip-lock back and keep them together. I've seen some guys put everything in one box and then not know what washer went with 2nd gear and so on. With the zip-lock method, when you are putting 2nd gear back on, you have all the parts that came off with it.
You'll find the mainshaft does disassemble like this. You remove a snap ring and one group of parts comes off and stays together. Then you move onto the next snap ring and so on.
It's pretty easy really. Just take your time and be organized. Taking lots of pics the first time through does help as well. I have a few hundred pics on my comp that i routinely go back to when helping other guys with probs during rebuilds
89streetbeast
New Member
The thing about this rebuild is all of the gears look good, no chipped or broked teeth. Syncros look good not alot of wear. My original problem was when under heavy load the shift from 4th to 5th would grind. My thought was the syncros. No visible sign of wear on the gear or snycro. I removed the front bearing retainer to inspect it and the main shaft was what I would consider loose. I assume the bearing is the fault and needs to be replaced along with fresh rebuild with no hard parts. By the way this is a WC t5 Z. I was told it has a improved bearing set??
See http://www.hanlonmotorsports.com/ or http://www.ddperformance.com for parts
A T5 rebuild kit with syncros, bearings and other small parts costs about $160. It does not include any gears or shafts.
http://www.hanlonmotorsports.com/ also has a video on how to rebuild your T5 or Tremec. It costs about $20, and is worth every penny of it.
A T5 rebuild kit with syncros, bearings and other small parts costs about $160. It does not include any gears or shafts.
http://www.hanlonmotorsports.com/ also has a video on how to rebuild your T5 or Tremec. It costs about $20, and is worth every penny of it.
when I removed my roll pin, I used a punch. This may work for some people, but I ended up spreading the roll pin apart and got it stuck. I ended up having to pay a guy at a machine shop $20 to weld on to the roll pin and pull it out that way. After posting up, a couple people recommended using an old drill bit to knock the pin out. That way, you don't spread the roll pin open. Watch for the spring and the little ball to drop out, too.
You may know this stuff already, just thought I'd mention it anyway.
Good Luck
lol...I got my tranny apart, but I ended up having to have a tranny shop put it back together. I didn't get the video, though.
You may know this stuff already, just thought I'd mention it anyway.
Good Luck
lol...I got my tranny apart, but I ended up having to have a tranny shop put it back together. I didn't get the video, though.
The roll pin was a pain but I used an old punch that fit nicely. The snap rings are holding me back. I have a set of snap ring pliers but they are made for small plumbing fixtures and they wont cut it for this task. I'll look into the shift forks and sliders later. While I have it apart I may as well rebuild it with the wearable items. When I disassemble it more I may find more problems. Oh well.
i used a drill bit to knock the roll pin out alsowhen I removed my roll pin, I used a punch. This may work for some people, but I ended up spreading the roll pin apart and got it stuck. I ended up having to pay a guy at a machine shop $20 to weld on to the roll pin and pull it out that way. After posting up, a couple people recommended using an old drill bit to knock the pin out. That way, you don't spread the roll pin open. Watch for the spring and the little ball to drop out, too.
You may know this stuff already, just thought I'd mention it anyway.
Good Luck
lol...I got my tranny apart, but I ended up having to have a tranny shop put it back together. I didn't get the video, though.
No, I still have it apart and made a rookie mistake. I thought I was pressing off the right item and ended up trashing the mainshaft. Of course a new mainshaft is expensive and I dont think its worth contuining. If I can find a broken t5 with just gear damage I'll be ok. I was already putting too much torque thru the tranny. I had a buddy with a 4 banger tranny I have installed just to break the motor in. I am thinking about a 26 spline t-56 for a replacement.
Just in case anyone needs the info, i used this when i rebuilt mine...
http://pomoforacing.com/tech/T5Rebuild2002.pdf
http://pomoforacing.com/tech/T5Rebuild2002.pdf
Sorry to hear about that. I bought a used T5 from a fellow on ebay. Mine
looks good and shifted good on the bench. I even pulled the cover to inspect
the gears. They looked brand new. I went ahead and installed it in my 65
fastback. Shifting is ok on the way up through the gears but hard
downshifting, like having to go from 5th to 3rd before I can get it in 4th.
Also I have to come to a complete stop before I can shift to 1st without
grinding. Others have suggested it might just be the clutch out of
adjustment. I wish it were just that simple. Good luck and hope you get it
going soon.
Thanks,
Charles Keith
Great link. I thought I had visited all the T5 sites. This is a good one. I saved it so I can go to it quickly. Thanks.
lutzgt86-91
Founding Member
The best way to get the roll pin out is to buy a roll pin punch it has a small tit on the end to center the punch Sweet your probwas proble the 5th gear blocker ring these are made out of brass
