Who has painted their own car?
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It's not a Mustang but I did paint my other little car. I used a 5 hp, 14 SCFM, 80 gallon receiver compressor that I bought from Harbor Freight, US Genreal brand, I think. Still have it and it still works great. I used a DeVillbis Finishline II HVLP sprayer. I manually sanded the whole car (hard work) before paint and manually color sanded it after paint (harder work).
Here's a pic of the final product.
Here's a pic of the final product.
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87_stang
Member
I've painted a few. Not sure of the brand of compressor but I use a Cobalt gun, it is made by Sharpe. I think it was a little under $200. Just don't go buy a real cheap gun and get the tips to match your paint. The car in my sig is the last one I did other than just repairs/patches. Good luck and have fun. Also, buy a good paint, no cheap stuff. Especially for your first job. The better the paint the easier it is to make look good.
nonglossjason
I did not have intercourse with a sheep.
- Jan 27, 2006
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87_stang
Member
Yeah, I saw the compressor on Harbor Freight. I also checked out some stuff from autobodystore.com. But they recommend a $650 compressor and the guns go from $250 and up.
What kind of paint is good paint?
I used to be a house painter and can talk about tools and good paint all day long. Now with cars I'm lost.
Also, did yall do a clear coat?
What kind of paint is good paint?
I used to be a house painter and can talk about tools and good paint all day long. Now with cars I'm lost.
Also, did yall do a clear coat?
TC93
Well-Known Member
I painted my previous 86 GT..
I used Dupont Chromabase stuff. I signed up for auto-body repair at the local tech school and used their air and tools, plus booth. Basically just like most body shop booths expect one wall was glass, so it people could watch for a class. Tell ya what,, I see why a good painter charge's so much.. The key is in th eprep work.. The more you out into prep the better the job..!!
1st I DA'd the car with 180 done past the factory clear, then did body work. Filled in minor dings and emblem holes and such. Primed the car with a Nason Euro-based primer( 3 coats). Wet sanded it with 500 grit and sprayed 3 coats of white base, then 3 coats of Duponts 7900 clear.
I also painted a 93 vert for a friend using the same method....
Here are picture of my 86 top GT and th e93 vert I did while in school....
86 when I started...
After I painted it...
The 93 vert I painted....
I used Dupont Chromabase stuff. I signed up for auto-body repair at the local tech school and used their air and tools, plus booth. Basically just like most body shop booths expect one wall was glass, so it people could watch for a class. Tell ya what,, I see why a good painter charge's so much.. The key is in th eprep work.. The more you out into prep the better the job..!!
1st I DA'd the car with 180 done past the factory clear, then did body work. Filled in minor dings and emblem holes and such. Primed the car with a Nason Euro-based primer( 3 coats). Wet sanded it with 500 grit and sprayed 3 coats of white base, then 3 coats of Duponts 7900 clear.
I also painted a 93 vert for a friend using the same method....
Here are picture of my 86 top GT and th e93 vert I did while in school....
86 when I started...
After I painted it...
The 93 vert I painted....
87_stang
Member
Nice job on the 2 cars Mike. I have used both single and dual stage paints. You can make either look good but if you really want it to last or it is kept outside I would go with dual stage paint. I used to have the email address of a guy who is a general manager of a big paint supply company and one for one of the head guys at SATA. I'll look for their email addresses for you. The guy from SATA said he could get me a rebuilt SATA paint gun for around $200-250 which is a good deal for a very good gun. I'll look for it tonight and let you know if I found it.
TC93
Well-Known Member
Thanks, 87_stang.........................
Sorry man,, got one more car to paint and thats my current project, the 84 t-top coupe. Single stage paint can come out nice. It probably won't last as long a a 2 stage( base/clear) but can look real nice. I painted 2 vehicles at school with Nason Y2k single stage and they came out good. If kept clean and waxed, a sinlge stage will stay looking good. If its a daily driver and stays in the weather I say (depending on paint you use),, it will last 5-7 years before starting to fade. But if its a car that is garage kept, it will last allot longer. I like Dupont, and thats what I am use to. Doesn't matter what brand paint use,, just prep the surface good and lay on nice even wet coats.
My last car I painted was a 92 coupe, that was a another friends. It was Jewel green and I used the same method and same materails. This was a project car, that he was working on and traded it for a 67 coupe... Here a a couple pictures, one in sanding stage and a couple during and after paint.. Will see if my friend has better pictures of final product.
During body work..
After primering...
During paint...
Mostly assembled....
MAC'n89Blckstng
Active Member
Im gettin jealous again! I love seeing fresh paint pictures. I cant wait to paint my car, its killin me!
Hey Myke, did you remove the trim piece off of the green car....I think its called a roof rail. Its the piece that starts at the quarter window and ends at by going down the a pillar.
If so, how did it go back on. I have one sitting in my garage b/c I removed it to paint the trim black. I can't get it back on.
Also, were all these cars painted at the shop at your school? I've been looking around to maybe join one but can't really find one in town.
If so, how did it go back on. I have one sitting in my garage b/c I removed it to paint the trim black. I can't get it back on.
Also, were all these cars painted at the shop at your school? I've been looking around to maybe join one but can't really find one in town.
TC93
Well-Known Member
The trim piece has a screw near the front and a moulding glue holding it on. I just got some moulding glues at advance auto, and laid a bead in the trim and slid i back into place.
Yea all these cars were painted at the local tech school. We have a pretty good tech school here in Columbus. I used my GI Bill to go and went into auto body just to piant my car. But ended up doing the whole course(1.3/4 years), and thats how the other projects were done. I needed a car to work on, or they would basically bring one in for ya. So I decided to bring my own..LOL
Yea all these cars were painted at the local tech school. We have a pretty good tech school here in Columbus. I used my GI Bill to go and went into auto body just to piant my car. But ended up doing the whole course(1.3/4 years), and thats how the other projects were done. I needed a car to work on, or they would basically bring one in for ya. So I decided to bring my own..LOL
Umby
New Member
Not to hijack the thread, but I have a question in the same vein...
I'm starting to the body work on my new project and I was wondering if it is OK to primer the car for what will probably be a couple of months before its painted or will the primer absorb moisture, etc???
I'm starting to the body work on my new project and I was wondering if it is OK to primer the car for what will probably be a couple of months before its painted or will the primer absorb moisture, etc???
TC93
Well-Known Member
As long as you don't drive it much the primer will be OK. If you prime it then drive for a few months I would reprime it. Most likely get chips in the primer and, and road grime be in it. I would do the body work,, and spot prime those areas with a quality primer filler in a spray can. Then, when you are rady prime the whole car with a good euro primer, wet sand the car with 400-600 grit paper, then paint it.
ryan218
In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
we used air sanding for getting it down to bare mettle in some spots then after primer and all the other steps of painting were done by hand.....
heres a pic....
before
after
View attachment 406421
heres a pic....
before
after
View attachment 406421
Attachments
Umby
New Member
TC93
Well-Known Member
That makes 2 of us, but i also have a zillion other things to fix before i can.
prochargedfox
New Member
If I were you I would do a 2 stage system (base/clear). It just lasts longer and looks better. DuPont, PPG, Sikkens they are all good brands. I would recomend using DuPont because they have mixing instructions on the side of the can.
As for the body work. I would use air tools ( DA and/or air file ) to do the body work. Just for the thicker parts. Always block out your filler and primer. If the car doesnt need a lot of body work and it hasnt been repainted before, then you can just sand it all w/ 320, then spray your sealer primer, then base, then clear. Make sure you take off all the moldings, lights, quarter windows etc. for a quality paint job.
Good luck. I hope it turns out the way you want.
As for the body work. I would use air tools ( DA and/or air file ) to do the body work. Just for the thicker parts. Always block out your filler and primer. If the car doesnt need a lot of body work and it hasnt been repainted before, then you can just sand it all w/ 320, then spray your sealer primer, then base, then clear. Make sure you take off all the moldings, lights, quarter windows etc. for a quality paint job.
Good luck. I hope it turns out the way you want.
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