rear axle is moving side to side...

[65notch]

when i maneuver agressively, turning either right or left, the inside of my tire rubs the inner finder(twords front of car). i know i can space the tire out to keep it from rubbing, but i would like to keep the axle from moving as best i can.
are there any cheap tricks that people have done or heard of to keep the axle centered?

 

[ForceFed70]

Are you sure this is being caused by axle movement and not body roll?

If it is axle movement, you probably need to replace the leaf spring bushings.

For body roll you could look into a rear anti-sway bar, and/or stiffer rear springs.

 

[fvike]

A Panhard bar or a Watts Link is the way to go. Their only objective is to keep the rear axle centered.

 

[1320stang]

I was going to say panhard as well.

 

[65 fastback]

I've got a panhard bar on my car and it keeps the body directly above the rear axle. Quick, inexpensive and fairly easy if you can weld; still not bad if you have to get someone to weld it for you.

Here is a descriptive link - http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/panhard.shtml

Maier sells an early model specific panhard bar - http://www.maierracing.com/

Tim

 

[67 Evil Eleanor]

Is this something new? If so, check your tire pressure. Worth a try.

 

[Sicarius428]

I would say panhard bar too. Cheapest best way to keep your axle centered. Your leafs in your sig are pretty new so possibly a sway bar to keep roll down.
Kevin

 

[bnickel]

the problem with a panhard bar is that it does not distribute the cornering forces equally and tries to pull on tire up while planting the other one, a watt's link is a much better though more expensive way to keep the axle centered. you could also use a set of Global West Del-Alum leaf spring bushings as they are also designed to minimize movement of the rear axle and are the cheapest alternative

 

[1320stang]

Yeah, but he said cheap and he didn't say anything about taking the car to the track, so I figured the panhard was the best deal, easy and cheap and it will work better than what he has.

 

[bnickel]

Yeah, but he said cheap and he didn't say anything about taking the car to the track, so I figured the panhard was the best deal, easy and cheap and it will work better than what he has.

that's why i also recommended the GW del-alum bushings, those would probably be the best bang for the buck overall and even cheaper than a panhard bar.

http://mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy01.asp?T1=GW106SH+01&Category=&catkey=EMUSTANG

granted they are only about 30 bucks cheaper then the maier panhard bar, but they won't have the uneven cornering forces either.

 

[SNAKEPILOT]

Leaf springs usually do a pretty good job of keeping an axle centered. I don't know of any factory leaf spring cars that used a panhard bar. The Trans Am Mustangs used them but those were track cars. I don't think a street car on street tires is going to generate enough lateral force to move the axle significantly. The panhard will do nothing to prevent roll.
With 5-leaf springs, there should not be much problem with roll unless there is a problem with the bushings and or shackles. Maybe even a cracked rear frame.

 

[bnickel]

Leaf springs usually do a pretty good job of keeping an axle centered. I don't know of any factory leaf spring cars that used a panhard bar. The Trans Am Mustangs used them but those were track cars. I don't think a street car on street tires is going to generate enough lateral force to move the axle significantly. The panhard will do nothing to prevent roll.
With 5-leaf springs, there should not be much problem with roll unless there is a problem with the bushings and or shackles. Maybe even a cracked rear frame.

actually most of the trans am Mustangs used the watts link, but not all.

even a 5 leaf spring will not stop all lateral movement, a 5 leaf spring with the GW del-alum bushings will prevent most if not all of it.

 

[65notch]

awesome replies guys, thanks! i got under the car today and my rear bushings looks to be cracked around the edges so im sure they are worn out which possibly is causing my problem.
this is a daily driver but i also take it to the drags and eventually want to take it on trans am/road course's as soon as i can afford it.
ill look into the bushings for sure and also the panhard bar

 

[bnickel]

awesome replies guys, thanks! i got under the car today and my rear bushings looks to be cracked around the edges so im sure they are worn out which possibly is causing my problem.
this is a daily driver but i also take it to the drags and eventually want to take it on trans am/road course's as soon as i can afford it.
ill look into the bushings for sure and also the panhard bar

if you use the GW del-alum bushings then you CAN NOT use a panhard or watts link.

i've heard that you can just use the rear shackle bushings from the GW kit with either a watts or panhard bar but definitely not the front bushings, just FYI

 

[66Runt]

I kind of stumbled onto a great setup.

.

 

[Sicarius428]

Some HD rear shackes might also help with poly bushings. My stock ones I was able to bend by hand which doesn't speak well for its structure. Granted when bolted together they should be well "boxed" but still... another possible cheaper addon which won't interfere with future upgrades.
Kevin

 

[CochinoFilipino]

What is an "HD" shackle?

And how do the del-alum bushings affect ride quality on a street car?

 

[66Runt]

.

 

[tomstir]

Why can't one use the del-alum bushings with a phb or watts?

 

[bnickel]

Why can't one use the del-alum bushings with a phb or watts?

something about conflicting center of gravity between the 2 or something. the PB/watts will have one and the del-alums will have another, in a straight line it won't matter but when going through a corner the PB/watts will won't to make the car do one thing and the del-alums will want to make it do something completely different. i wish i could remember the exact term and how better to explain it, but basically it will make the car LESS controllable.