Idle staying at 2,000 RPM

savegoodautonfg

New Member
May 11, 2005
1,085
0
0
1. My idle is set to about 850-900 rpms, and when im driving only sometimes for some reason after about 5 minutes or so, i'll stop and let my foot off the clutch and the rpm will stay at 2,000 rpm and not go down unless i turn the car off and then on again. This is happening too much lately. Any ideas?

2. This is a different problem but, also, for as long as i can remember when im driving and i let off the gas and take my foot off the clutch and drop it in nuetral or whatever the car's rpm stays up higher then idle then when i come to a complete stop, after a second then it will drop to regular idle.


any ideas?

thanks in advance
 
  • Sponsors (?)


You guys with idle problems could same a lot of time chasing your tails if you would go through the Surging Idle Checklist. Over 50 different people contributed information to it. The first post has all the fixes, and steps through the how to find and fix you idle problems without spending a lot of time and money. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions. You can post questions to that sticky and have your name and idle problem recognized. The guys with original problems and fixes get their posts added to the main fix. :D:
 
all my vacuum lines are fine, and for the past few months theres a vacuum type noise coming from there, but idle otherwise is fine when sitting still.

could never find that vacuum leak even if their was one.
 
yes its not

any other ideas guys?

also:

To add, i just went outside and checked a few things, when i disconnect the IAC connector absoultely nothing happens the idle speed doesnt change at all.

is it suppose to?
 
yes its not

any other ideas guys?

also:

To add, i just went outside and checked a few things, when i disconnect the IAC connector absoultely nothing happens the idle speed doesnt change at all.

is it suppose to?

It is supposed to change. Re-read the first post on the Surging Idle Checklist. Then print it off and highlight the sections that are similar to your problems. The checklist contains a section on setting the mechanical base idle. I suggest that you read it and follow the instructions.
 
It is supposed to change. Re-read the first post on the Surging Idle Checklist. Then print it off and highlight the sections that are similar to your problems. The checklist contains a section on setting the mechanical base idle. I suggest that you read it and follow the instructions.

I will do that, but also how is setting the idle gonna make my IAC motor affect the idle. cause now when i disconnect IAC the idle speed does'nt change?
 
I will do that, but also how is setting the idle gonna make my IAC motor affect the idle. cause now when i disconnect IAC the idle speed does'nt change?

UPDATE 5/10/07

Now it starts to stay at 1,300 rpms until i turn the car off, doesnt do it all the time though.

i've cleaned IAC, EGR and check TPS Voltage (it's at 1.02)

anything else?
 
If the idle speed does not change when you disconnect the IAC, then either you have a vacuum leak or the IAC is defective. Cleaing the IAC does not always work.
 
i've had a vacuum leak type sound for a while... if you see one of my thread about intake whistling noise you'll know what im talking about.

about 5 different mechanics have looked at it. can't figure it out. i even brought it to ford.

i also checked IAC voltage and it is at what it suppose to be at.

jritcher, also do you think the IAC maybe being bad could be causing my problem with the RPM's?
 
i've had a vacuum leak type sound for a while... if you see one of my thread about intake whistling noise you'll know what im talking about.

about 5 different mechanics have looked at it. can't figure it out. i even brought it to ford.

i also checked IAC voltage and it is at what it suppose to be at.

jritcher, also do you think the IAC maybe being bad could be causing my problem with the RPM's?
The IAB and IAC are the same thing on a 5.0 Mustang. Different years use a different name for the same part.

IAB/IAC theory of operation:

The 12 volts is not nearly as important as the ground provided by the computer
Remember that the computer does not supply power for any actuator or relay. It provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

attachment.php


If the IAB does not seat properly (bent rod inside, bent or worn vavle assembly), it will cause the RPM's to stay high when the electrical signal is disconnected.
 
The IAB and IAC are the same thing on a 5.0 Mustang. Different years use a different name for the same part.

IAB/IAC theory of operation:

The 12 volts is not nearly as important as the ground provided by the computer
Remember that the computer does not supply power for any actuator or relay. It provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

attachment.php


If the IAB does not seat properly (bent rod inside, bent or worn vavle assembly), it will cause the RPM's to stay high when the electrical signal is disconnected.

So are you possibly telling me that it is possible that my IAC/IAB is fine but that my ground is'nt good?