info wanted on the dohc volvo head swap

How about something like this?
ZetecConversion1-Nobby.jpg
 
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i need to see that little motor with the turbo run.lol. i now see why its so hard to get info on doing this, people think its a joke and knock it. well after me and my buddy finshing building the carpi, iam going to go out on my own and buy a 2.3 long block and do this. ill make a web site going step by step with video's and pictures and info where and how i got the parts used in the build up.
 
i now see why its so hard to get info on doing this, people think its a joke and knock it. well after me and my buddy finshing building the carpi, iam going to go out on my own and buy a 2.3 long block and do this. ill make a web site going step by step with video's and pictures and info where and how i got the parts used in the build up.

The majority doesn't think it's the joke...it's just a MUCH more difficult job than most people think which creates a whole lot of talking, dreaming, drooling, etc. but very few people who have the 1. knowledge, 2. time, 3. money, and 4. desire to do the swap when there are other heads for the 2.3 that outflow the volvo head and bolt right on...have at it though.
 
can you list some othere heads. i know about the esslinger. and the ford motor sport big vale head. the esslinger price tag is what turns most people away from that, and the big vale head isnt made any more from what i was told.

sorry about spelling ive been up for too long.
 
can you list some othere heads. i know about the esslinger.

Esslinger is the only game still making heads and they cater largely to Ministock racers. An outfit called Rapido did a limited production run of aluminum D-port heads, but that stock is all gone. The options boil down to an Esslinger, used Motorsport/Rapido, ported iron, or a Volvo headswap. Rumor has it that one of the (one or two) prototype '87 16v DOHC SVO heads might exist somewhere, but fat chance getting it.

87svo03.jpg
 
this is kinda a side note can u guys tell me what would the best head to use ie a stock turbo head. like what year and model .the head on my and my buddys 84 rs turbo carpi is cracked so we have to replace it, i had my step dad run me prices and they were all around 240$ after the core charge.



like i said early in the post iam gonna do dohc swap on a different motor down the road.

o yeah shelby is there any news on ur turbo 10hp motor. i read all 14 pages of the post you made on a different site.
 
the head on my and my buddys 84 rs turbo carpi is cracked so we have to replace it, i had my step dad run me prices and they were all around 240$ after the core charge.

o yeah shelby is there any news on ur turbo 10hp motor. i read all 14 pages of the post you made on a different site.

$240 for a genuine rebuilt turbo head isn't bad. You'll have a tough time finding a used one that isn't cracked. Even the N/A heads cracked on occasion. If the crack doesn't go through the seats or hit water, then it can likely still be used. If you want to find a used one, look for '79-89 2.3 turbo heads. I'm not sure if the carbureted 2.3Ts have oval port heads or D-port, but you can use either.

No real news on the turbo Briggs. The cylinder is hurt pretty bad, it burns a ton of oil, and the turbo is going on something else. I'm going to get the spark control set up so I can advance the timing, put some super low octane gas in it, and blow it up.
 
I'm going to be running a double plug head here really soon. The bowls around the intake valve are much better than the turbo head. I still need to measure the head's chamber to see if I need to cut the pistons a bit to keep the compression down.

The problem with this head is that it uses a different intake manifold. I'm building an RS500 clone to attach to this head, so that's not a problem for me.

I want to do the Volvo DOHC swap too, but I'm still working on my fabrication skills, so I'll wait a little first. The 8 valve Volvo turbo heads have at least 2" intake holes and flow very nicely. These heads are much cheaper to get and require the same amount of work as the DOHC heads do. The difference is, these heads are MUCH cheaper, so it's a good starter for someone who wants to try it out first without putting out as much money as a DOHC costs.
 
Hi guys, first post, found this thread in a search.

The thing to do is to first find one of the dohc prototype heads, then take measurements from it and make a 3d CAD model, then whittle one out of billet aluminum with a CNC machine. :nice:
 
belive it or not if i could get a 3d CAD model my buddy would do it for free minus the cost of stock and bits witch would be worth it.

on my carpi build up we need a new head its a 84 rs turbo what is better oval port heads or D-port. and out of those can some one tell me a year make and model they come on. i need to know that info when i order it thru my step dad. i can just tell him a d port 2.3 head.
 
hey guys i havent been around for some time. been mad busey building the capri with the buddy. the hole front half of the car is done and primed. the roll cage is 75% done and once thats done were going to finsh the paint and start putting parts back on.

we wound up putting 1300$ in machine work alone in the stock block.
on the up side we got a free 2.3 block for the dohc motor. my buddy wasnt 100 percent for it but since we got a perfectly runny 2.3 for free hes down.
so why am i bring back this old thread cause were doing it. iam going to delete my web page and make it a complet how to for the dohc swap. so those still wanting info its on its way.
 
what did they do to require 1,300.00 $ worth of work? Hopefully you have a very nice setup now!
My build as of a few months ago
2.3 Block
-work order-
-- .015 over
--Balanced
-- Assemble pistons/rods
--Assembly / torque to spec bottom end (inlcluding new bearings)
=670.00$

Custom .015 CP pistons with "the right rings"
=500.00$

Crower 5.2 rods
=384.00$

Total Bottom end price
1554.00$


Hopefully you came close ?
 
20 over, deck machined, we got bearing caps, lined honed blanced, installed connecting rods in to cutome pistons. had the fly wheel machined and blanced with clutch. mag flux head and block, and a few othere stuff, my buddy iam makeing the car with knows all the details we got a discont too. more or less every thing you can have done to the motor at a machine shop we had done. where just two 21 year olds who arent made of cash who are takeing our time and doing every thing right we can. the machine shop tends to lead to race motors ect. we got a 20% off because my uncle brings his motors there all the time. he races a 914 targa in scca.



any ways iam trying to get info on where i can send a volvo head to get the work done to it. and get a list of what needs to be done ect.
 
Any machine/ fabrication can do the custom work. As for what needs to be done, If you have a volvo head its pretty easy to get started. Water and oil passages need to be closed/reshaped and aligned. The head is shorter (in the rear) than the block. So either the head needs to be extended or the block shortened.
Need to rig up a belt tensioner
Make/adapt the correct cam sprockets
Doing research on what EEC you will be using as I'm pretty sure the distributer will no longer fit.
With the head you can start fabricating the intake and exhaust manifolds as the stock volvo ones wont fit (and the exhuast is not correctly flanged for a turbo)
Adapting whatever fuel rail you (manifold specific) use to your current fuel system.

Those are a few things off the top of my head. Having a head on hand , you will see some obvious stuff to start on.
 
any one know of some good web sites explaining how to turbo prep the head.
ive been trying to find info on that but the volvo sites just explain how to put the 16v dohc head on the volvo 8v sohc block.