Can anyone help me? My abs and traction control light came on and stay on, all the time(as long as the car is running). A friend of mine cleared the codes for me, but as soon as you start the car, they come back on. The only code found was a shorted brake fluid level sensor. Does this sound like something that could cause this? He could not get into the abs system to see if any codes were in it, so I am trying to find out any info I can. I called Ford, and they only list a brake fluid level switch. Same thing? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.(2001 Mustang GT all stock coupe)
ABS and Traction control light on
- Thread starter rugman1969
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There is a way to read the ABS codes, but i think you need a special scanner.
Right off the top the first things i would do is to unplug the 4 speed sensors on each wheel and measure the resistance. If one of them is open, then you need to replace that sensor.
9 times out of 10, ABS problems are linked to faulty wheel sensors. If you can somehow read the ABS codes it will tell you which one.
I know on my Mark 8, i could ground the ABS test plug and the ABS light would flash the codes to me and tell me which sensor was bad. I don't think the Mustang can do this though
Right off the top the first things i would do is to unplug the 4 speed sensors on each wheel and measure the resistance. If one of them is open, then you need to replace that sensor.
9 times out of 10, ABS problems are linked to faulty wheel sensors. If you can somehow read the ABS codes it will tell you which one.
I know on my Mark 8, i could ground the ABS test plug and the ABS light would flash the codes to me and tell me which sensor was bad. I don't think the Mustang can do this though
StangPro
New Member
Either a wheel sensor or your ABS module is dead.
If you can pull ABS codes, it isn't the module.
If you can pull ABS codes, it isn't the module.
WashburnGT
New Member
StangPro said:
Not true...My car was throwing a code saying the LR sensor was bad. I replaced
it and it still didnt work. It ended being the module that was faulty. So...your
car could still throw some codes, which may or may not be accurate.
The best thing you can do, short of taking it to a shop to get checked out, is to
do what mustang5L5 said and unplug the sensors and check the resistance.
Otherwise just take it and have it scaned...let them figure out what the problem
is and fix it yourself. The sensors and the module are pretty easy to replace.
most abs problems are related to the sensors, the tonerings or the wirring to the abs module. If you can get the code pulled that will help tell you what area to check.
Did you ever get the problem fixed? my ABS light and traction controll have be on for a yr now but im looking to trade up so i wanna get it fixed be for i sell her.
when it first started the abs light came on and the traction controll button woulf not light up (so i thing it was off) but every now and then they woulf start working for a few days, but for the past 8months abs lights is stuck on and traction is stuck off.
when it first started the abs light came on and the traction controll button woulf not light up (so i thing it was off) but every now and then they woulf start working for a few days, but for the past 8months abs lights is stuck on and traction is stuck off.
The anti-lock brake control module is self-monitoring. When the ignition switch is turned to the RUN position, the anti-lock brake control module will do a preliminary electrical check, and at approximately 8 mph the pump motor is turned on for approximately one half-second. Also during all phases of operation the anti-lock brake control module (after the vehicle is in motion) checks for correct operation of the anti-lock brake sensors.
If your light is coming on as soon as you start it then it is failing the peliminary check which means you have an open/shorted circuit or commonly known as a hard fault. All though wheel speed sensors are the most common problem on ABS systems they usually don't show up until vehicle is in motion, unless you have an open or shorted circuit to one of them. I would check all my fuses first :
Central junction box (CJB) Fuse:
5 (15A)
15 (10A)
29 (15A)
33 (15A)
35 (15A)
Battery junction box (BJB) Fuse:
ABS 1 (50A)
ABS 2 (20A)
If all of these are ok then I would get it scanned for the correct code before doing anything else to it.
If your light is coming on as soon as you start it then it is failing the peliminary check which means you have an open/shorted circuit or commonly known as a hard fault. All though wheel speed sensors are the most common problem on ABS systems they usually don't show up until vehicle is in motion, unless you have an open or shorted circuit to one of them. I would check all my fuses first :
Central junction box (CJB) Fuse:
5 (15A)
15 (10A)
29 (15A)
33 (15A)
35 (15A)
Battery junction box (BJB) Fuse:
ABS 1 (50A)
ABS 2 (20A)
If all of these are ok then I would get it scanned for the correct code before doing anything else to it.
Dusstbuster
I love meat more than anything! I just have a spec
My HCM is shot so my ABS light is always on and doesn't work. You just get used to it I guess, since I never drive on ice/snow it doesn't matter anyways AND I can stop quicker (with less control) with ABS off.
I jut got a check to see if it was the module and it was, how ever they said depending on the part # ( they said there were2) it would be $350+ or $750+ depending on the part which thet wouldnt know till they took it off. that sounds WAY too high.
im gonna call around a mom n pop place to see what they are charging.
im gonna call around a mom n pop place to see what they are charging.
streetstang03
unModerator
you can find the abs module on ebay from $50-$100. then do it yourself, or have a shop do it. they all seem to charge out the ass for a new module.
96GTstang46
New Member
This may sound dumb or someone might have said something already but I had my abs light turn on one day and i didnt know why..
About a month later i was doing my brakes when i noticed that my abs line with CUT.. it was rubbin on my rim on the inside and wore all the way threw the line.. so i replaced it with one from the junk yard and has worked great sence. Maybe something to check out?!?!
About a month later i was doing my brakes when i noticed that my abs line with CUT.. it was rubbin on my rim on the inside and wore all the way threw the line.. so i replaced it with one from the junk yard and has worked great sence. Maybe something to check out?!?!
yeah i looked, nothing right now for my yr and i need to get the module w/ traction controll
i found this place http://www.modulemaster.com/fordabsbsrepair.html that rebuild them for $100+ just need to find a place to take it out for a fair price. dont have my jack stands right now ;(
If the light is on, the ABS system is shut off by default. That's pretty much a rule with all cars really.
Most common reason for the ABS light? The wheel sensors crap the bed. They just oxidize from the weather and fail. Too bad there is no easy way to read the codes. You can check the sensors by reading resistance of the sensors. An open reading is the bad sensor.
I had a '93 Mark 8 that had the ability to ground the ABS test plug and the ABS light in the dash would BLINK you the codes. They you look it up on a chart and it would tell you the fault. When my ABS light came on in that car, i did just that and it told me the right rear sensor was not reading. I tested the sensor and sure as hell it was an open connection. I replaced it and the light went out next time i started the engine.
Maybe if your light is on, first thing to do is check resistance of your 4 wheel sensors with a digital multimeter
well i just got the car back from having a new module put on but the traction controll still doesnt work! i bet they put the module in w/o traction, idiots.
so tomorrow im bck down there. i was hoping i could just pull out the panel where the button is just to make sure its connected but when i was driving home the traction control was lit up, just not the orange part phen you press it off so im guess it is ;(
so tomorrow im bck down there. i was hoping i could just pull out the panel where the button is just to make sure its connected but when i was driving home the traction control was lit up, just not the orange part phen you press it off so im guess it is ;(
here's a little twist, when I drive my car for the first time each day, ABS light is off and Trac control button light is off. Every time at the same distance, both lights come on ( around 5 miles ). When I leave work, both lights are still on utill about the same distance, and then they turn off. What do you all think?
StangYellow
Founding Member
- Sep 11, 2002
- 1,052
- 1
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Top 3 posts on this board are ABS posts......
oh wait, thats because i replied to all 3.
Still kind of strange that the topic is popular
oh wait, thats because i replied to all 3.
Still kind of strange that the topic is popular
ABS and TC both use the same system, so when ABS fails, so does TC
Most common cause for ABS turning off after driving a short distance is faulty wheel sensors.
Short of having the codes read and pinpointing which sensor it is, you can unplug each at the wheels (or whever the disconnect connector is) and read the resistance with an Digital multimeter. All 4 should read the same. If any reads open, or has a different value, there's your faulty sensor.
