Are the Autolites any better than the OEM plug? I replaced my plugs at 30000 miles using the OEM Motorcraft plug. It was very difficult to remove them, I broke each plug loose by hand and then used some GM rust penetrate. After I let them sit for 10 minutes I turned each plug a 1/4 turn at a time until they came out. There was a good amount of carbon build up on the plugs. I haven't check the plugs since then and I am at 45000 miles. I was thinking of using the Autolites instead of the Motorcraft plugs.
3V Spark plug change hell
- Thread starter GOLDENPONY
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kooldawg6
mine works really well and can take a fair amount
firefox shows a window that says another application must be used to view the link. that is because the url starts with mms:// and not http://
i did not open the link though....
Emay
Member
GM won't do things like this anymore either. I'm a long time GM product owner and advocate, but they are every bit as bad as Pappa Ford just in different areas.
Bottom line, they just need to bite the bullet and roll a recall or TSB to anti seize the threads. They won't because of the previously mentioned 100,000 mile plugs. They are guaranteed to break hundreds of them across the first 2 model years worth of cars on the road, and they know it.
That video is very informative... Although the guys are total douchebags. I will be pulling mine out soon to antiseize them. My question is... Why not antiseize the threads? Any bolt or plug going into aluminum should be antiseized... I learned that a LOT time ago.
Plugs
Here's what I have read about why no anti-seize should be put on the threads.
So when you're doing the Aerokroil penetrant thing, loosening the plug 1/8 to 1/4 turn, the penetrant can "wick" past the threads and get to the ground electrode shield. Make sense? I'm with you, I always heard you always put anti-seize on the threads with an aluminum head.
Here's what I have read about why no anti-seize should be put on the threads.
So when you're doing the Aerokroil penetrant thing, loosening the plug 1/8 to 1/4 turn, the penetrant can "wick" past the threads and get to the ground electrode shield. Make sense? I'm with you, I always heard you always put anti-seize on the threads with an aluminum head.
cave diver
Member
Could someone post a pdf or a link to TSB 06-15-2 ?? I think this is the one that covers the spark plug issue. For those of us that prefer working on our cars it would be helpful to read what Ford has to say.
Thanks
Thanks
kooldawg6
mine works really well and can take a fair amount
Here's what I have read about why no anti-seize should be put on the threads.
So when you're doing the Aerokroil penetrant thing, loosening the plug 1/8 to 1/4 turn, the penetrant can "wick" past the threads and get to the ground electrode shield. Make sense? I'm with you, I always heard you always put anti-seize on the threads with an aluminum head.
It makes sense to me that if you antiseize the threads then the penetrating oil might not ever penetrate to the intended target zone, but then again, if you're supposed to antiseize the threads in aluminum heads, then it doesn't make sense unless other brand plugs don't have the cap as a seperate piece to worry about breaking off.
Plugs
Ya know, the problem is we only have a choice of Motorcraft or Autolite plugs and I think they're both crimped rather than welded. If I didn't love that car so much, I'd drop it like third period French the day I get it back.
It makes sense to me that if you antiseize the threads then the penetrating oil might not ever penetrate to the intended target zone, but then again, if you're supposed to antiseize the threads in aluminum heads, then it doesn't make sense unless other brand plugs don't have the cap as a seperate piece to worry about breaking off.
Ya know, the problem is we only have a choice of Motorcraft or Autolite plugs and I think they're both crimped rather than welded. If I didn't love that car so much, I'd drop it like third period French the day I get it back.
You would need a machine to weld them.. And it wouldn't be your normal weld with adding filler metal. You'd basically be fusing it together using electricity.
BTW: I'll be pulling my plugs out tomorrow and antiseizing them... threads and barrel. If one breaks with 7K miles... oh well. I'll pull the heads and maybe have them ported and add some cams.
BTW: I'll be pulling my plugs out tomorrow and antiseizing them... threads and barrel. If one breaks with 7K miles... oh well. I'll pull the heads and maybe have them ported and add some cams.
retfr8flyr
Member
- Jun 24, 2006
- 154
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Brisk now makes a plug for the 3v and it has the old type electrode and a one piece body, I have a set in mine now.
Earl
Earl
Art161
Member
Here's a link if I didn't type it wrong and if it doesn't get shortened and not work. On the preview post it did get shortened. If it doesn't work, let me know.
http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/fad/tsb/06152.pdf
I tried clicking on the link and it actually worked!
1RedMach
New Member
I'm wondering the same thing. Do I need to antisieze the plugs on my 08 or is Ford now doing this. Mine only has 1200 miles.
xtweakerx
New Member
#1 Is this an issue in 2007 Mustang gt's?
#2 I can see Ford should have to pay if they break you're plug in the head while trying to take them out on a normal swap rountine, however goldenpony broke his plug so i dont think they should pay for that.
#3 i thought we didnt have to change the plugs til like 80,000-100,000 miles?
i would think even if you drive it daily and race from time to time, 50,000 would be suitable? *Shrug*
#2 I can see Ford should have to pay if they break you're plug in the head while trying to take them out on a normal swap rountine, however goldenpony broke his plug so i dont think they should pay for that.
#3 i thought we didnt have to change the plugs til like 80,000-100,000 miles?
i would think even if you drive it daily and race from time to time, 50,000 would be suitable? *Shrug*
Emay
Member
Nope, I've had a heavily driven 07 snap off on me @ 21,000 miles on the clock.. It's across the line, but there will be fewer breaks on cars with less miles for the simple fact that they haven't deposited up nearly as bad if at all.
What I meant was, those earlier cars are far more likely to break a couple just because they have had more use..
The way this is all turning out, I'd pull my plugs the day I get the car home and lube them.
All mine are out... Carbon build up is minimal, and they came out very easy using the outlined instructions. I was worried, even with only 7K miles.
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