maaco bc/cc quality questions
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1990Coupe
Founding Member
I beg your pardon? The car was BEAUFITUL.. The paint looked awesome. I didn't even wetsand it as there was vitually NO orangepeal. I have had plenty of cars painted 1 stage from macco. One car i kept for a few years - no fading what so ever.
Also i used to buff that car with polish all the time. Never once did i EVER have paint come off. I think your logic on one stage paint is skewed.
You must be used to a cheap brand of single stage paint then. I bought Nason's Ful-Thane paint. That stuff is harder than Enron, and will NOT fade in the future. We painted our delivery truck with it 8 years ago. It sits outside, never gets washed or waxed and it goes through out brutal winters. That thing still shines like a new dime.
He must not know how to prep his cars correctly if the paint comes off with a buffer!! He's just blowing smoke....
3 coats of clear leaves a ton of room for wetsanding. Start with 1000 move to 1500 move to 2000 and rub her out. It will look unbelievable.
MAC'n89Blckstng
Active Member
Your not the only one that does body work for a living pal. I've been doin this stuff for 6 years and have a degree in collision repair technologies. Single stage is just as good as base clear. Some people prefer b/c over single stage. Regardless of the two, you should be able to wet sand and buff them the same way. You can get the same film thickness as clear coat with single stage. With single stage, the clear is in the color. Tell me, whats your position in this shop? Pretty much EVERYONE on these forums know that the best way to prep a car for paint is to strip everything off. Check out this 67 Camaro I worked on at the last shop I worked at. I did everything from fitting the quarters to straightening the doors to wet sanding it for paint to to wet sanding and buffing it............................
and the finished product (minus wheels)
This car was painted peice by peice with nothing on it.
There are quite a few of us on here that can produce top notch paint jobs.
Damn, that Camaro really needed the whole back half!!! Great job man. Those are my favorite Camaros.
And single stage wetsands and rubs great. I used the same 100, 1500, and 2000 method on my yellow notch with the single stage. You can get it flatter than bc/cc because you are wetsanding the actual surface or the material. In bc/cc you can't wetsand your bc once the clear is layed, so you can only get it so good. Single stage is harder too. I used an aggresive pad and aggresive compound and it didn't harm the finish, it just improved it. I used the same pad and compound on a bc/cc job and it burned the clear a little bit. Luckly I had a lot of clear where I could wetsand the burned area, and it leveled out just fine. I then switched to a Meguiars Finessing Pad and a lighter compound and it was fine.
For solid colors, I'll use single stage on those jobs.
And single stage wetsands and rubs great. I used the same 100, 1500, and 2000 method on my yellow notch with the single stage. You can get it flatter than bc/cc because you are wetsanding the actual surface or the material. In bc/cc you can't wetsand your bc once the clear is layed, so you can only get it so good. Single stage is harder too. I used an aggresive pad and aggresive compound and it didn't harm the finish, it just improved it. I used the same pad and compound on a bc/cc job and it burned the clear a little bit. Luckly I had a lot of clear where I could wetsand the burned area, and it leveled out just fine. I then switched to a Meguiars Finessing Pad and a lighter compound and it was fine.
For solid colors, I'll use single stage on those jobs.
MAC'n89Blckstng
Active Member
Yea it was a pretty deep project lol. It took about a year to do the whole thing (often not working on it for a couple weeks at a time). Yea, I've noticed that no matter how flat I keep a block or how long of a block I use I can never get the clear 100% flat. I've heard spraying two coats of clear over the base coat, then blocking with 1000 grit and then re clearing and blocking and buffing that works really well to get the clear perfectly straight.
For a non metallic, Single stage is the ****. Honestly of all the paint I have sprayed, Centari is one of the best spraying paints I have ever touched. It is the base line DuPont for those of you that do not know. And Omni(PPG's baseline) is a close second. And $300 is still cheap for a gallon of quality paint. At the shops cost my green for my dodge project truck is going to be almost $700. But it is exactly what I want and you DO get what you pay for. IMO
Yeah Coupe the guy is confused. He corrected himself in his second post by saying it comes off when you wetsand. Clear coat comes off when you wetsand too.
Lets say you have to red cars. Car 1 is single stage, car two is base clear. While wetsanding car one, the color of the wetsanding "dust" will be red. While wetsanding car two, the color of the wetsanding "dust" will be white. Car 1 has red dust because the clear and the color is one and is hardened by the activator. Car 2 has the white dust because clear coat is clear and gives off the white dust while wetsanding.
That is a pretty good analogy of two styles of paint. Both styles of paint have material coming off when you wetsand, that is why you wetsand, to get the paint level. He must think that it's bad that there is color coming off. It's not bad at all, afterall, clear comes off when you wetsand too. That is why you put enough of either material on the metal, so it's covered, and it won't rub through.
Here is a pic of my crappy single stage paint job I wetsanded the piss out of.
Lets say you have to red cars. Car 1 is single stage, car two is base clear. While wetsanding car one, the color of the wetsanding "dust" will be red. While wetsanding car two, the color of the wetsanding "dust" will be white. Car 1 has red dust because the clear and the color is one and is hardened by the activator. Car 2 has the white dust because clear coat is clear and gives off the white dust while wetsanding.
That is a pretty good analogy of two styles of paint. Both styles of paint have material coming off when you wetsand, that is why you wetsand, to get the paint level. He must think that it's bad that there is color coming off. It's not bad at all, afterall, clear comes off when you wetsand too. That is why you put enough of either material on the metal, so it's covered, and it won't rub through.
Here is a pic of my crappy single stage paint job I wetsanded the piss out of.
sooo svt i thought you were the one sayying bc/cc was the only way to go for black? this 89 is black and is getting sprayed black, thats why we said bc/cc.. right? would a single be better? like enough coats of it.?
MAC'n89Blckstng
Active Member
I've hear the best way to get a DEEP black is to spray it single stage, let it cure. Wet sand it with 1000 grit and then put three coats of clear coat on it and then wet sand and buff that. I heard that is a sick way to make a really deep black.
Was that some form of ancient Anglo-ghetto English?
Your Coupe was SEXY. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise.
If you are just looking to make it "presentable" then yes, an el'cheapo paint job will do the trick.
My car was originally white, but the paint was so bad stains would actually seep into the paint and stain. I was just looking to make the car presentable...a paint job that could actually be washed. I removed all the lights, and exterior trim, and brought it to a local place....real cheap place, and got a $200 paint job...single stage. The car looks fine, at angles you can see orange peel, and it isn't going to win any contests...but the paint looks fine, and has held up just fine over the past few years.
Now granted when I finish the car, do all the body work and make it how I want it....I will spend the money and get a good paint job. But for now, the cheap job looks just fine.
My car was originally white, but the paint was so bad stains would actually seep into the paint and stain. I was just looking to make the car presentable...a paint job that could actually be washed. I removed all the lights, and exterior trim, and brought it to a local place....real cheap place, and got a $200 paint job...single stage. The car looks fine, at angles you can see orange peel, and it isn't going to win any contests...but the paint looks fine, and has held up just fine over the past few years.
Now granted when I finish the car, do all the body work and make it how I want it....I will spend the money and get a good paint job. But for now, the cheap job looks just fine.
soooo should we do a single stage and then get it wetsanded and cleared 3 times or should we just stay 2 - 3 base and 3 clear?
94GTHO
Member
I have around 850 to spend total guys. THe options are to save another 150 to take it to a guy at a bodyshop that isnt well known but supposidly is good for 3bc and 3cc if he seals it and all that stuff. ORRRRRR go to MAACO where a friend can give me there best paint job which is the bc/cc for like 400 and they will sand it before it goes in and sealer it beecause it is "company policy" they say. I will toss 100 at the painter and some at the friend for the discount and maybe some at the sanding guy. So everyone is happy and im getting the better paint job. Its not like a im getting what i pay for thing because its a 400 dollar job. Im gettting a HUGE discount because we know the people there. I am really leaning toward the MAACO job just to see how it goes. Maybe use it agian in the future to other cars i own.
bc/cc isn't the only way to go with black, but while wheeling out my yellow coupe, I was noticing some wheel marks that would drive me insane if the car was black. I have never gotten wheel marks like that in black bc/cc cars. I just think because you can get single stage so flat, you would go crazy trying to get everything out of black, because it shows so much of everything.
I have heard many people on here talk about that. I have never tried it, but I had an owner of a collision shop here, who only works on Mercedez Benz, hot rods, custom builds and other high end stuff tell me he wouldn't do that if he was me. My paint supply store sales guys all told me the same thing too. I haven't come across anybody who has done it. I mentioned before that our big 3500HD truck at work was painted 8 years ago with single stage and it's outside 365 days a year for all 4 Michigan seasons, and it hasn't faded a bit.
It has the same amount of protection. And any car will fade if it isn't taken care of, and it sits in the sun all year long for many years in a row. Coupe's gotta be one of the nicest guys on SN so I wouldn't try to be talking to him like that. He has never once been a smart-ass to anybody.
94GTHO
Member
Because the other thread was closed. Poll only
No comments in this thread so there is no argueing please. Only voting.
Options:
Cardinal Body Works, they strip hood to bare metal to to heat cracks, final sanding of car, primer/ sealer, 3 coats of black and 3 coats of clear. ~$1000
MAACO, same descrition as previous but for $400. Will tip painter $100 to do a good job before hand and same for sander but maybe not as much.
MAACO job is normally 1000+ but I am getting a discount because I know someone there.
There will be no single stage job for this car. It will be a bc/cc job. THe car does not have to be PERFECT. Its just a 2.3 daily. But I do want it to look good
No comments in this thread so there is no argueing please. Only voting.
Options:
Cardinal Body Works, they strip hood to bare metal to to heat cracks, final sanding of car, primer/ sealer, 3 coats of black and 3 coats of clear. ~$1000
MAACO, same descrition as previous but for $400. Will tip painter $100 to do a good job before hand and same for sander but maybe not as much.
MAACO job is normally 1000+ but I am getting a discount because I know someone there.
There will be no single stage job for this car. It will be a bc/cc job. THe car does not have to be PERFECT. Its just a 2.3 daily. But I do want it to look good
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