M&R Engines on Ebaymotors

Oct 30, 2007
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Hi, I wanted to ask if anyone has done business with M&R Engines on ebaymotors? They have good feedback but just wanted to see if anyone here has installed an engine in their mustang and had it long term. Just trying to make the best purchase possible for a 5.0L based 331 stroker. Their prices look reasonable to me. Thanks for your input.

Armando
 
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SKIP THEM !!!!!!! Had problems with one of their engines that a customer bought. And in talking with them, really couldn't fess up to a dead cylinder the engine had, or act they knew what was going on. In his 30 years of building engines, had never seen a head bolt that went into a water jackets :( Amongst other problems. Blueprint engines makes good motors.
 
SKIP THEM !!!!!!! Had problems with one of their engines that a customer bought. And in talking with them, really couldn't fess up to a dead cylinder the engine had, or act they knew what was going on. In his 30 years of building engines, had never seen a head bolt that went into a water jackets :( Amongst other problems. Blueprint engines makes good motors.

I am the CPR customer that decided to go with an M&R 331 stroker with Procomp aluminum heads. The engine was rated as 380 HP 380 TQ. I also found them through EBay, but I purchased only the long block directly from M&R Engines located in Glendale, California. I paid $3,539.78 with a flywheel and delivery to CPR who professionally installed the engine. Many of the initial pictures are here 331 stroker in a 66 fastback (shelby style engine bay) under cprstreetmachines’ Forum and Current Projects section.

I wanted a nostalgic engine bay that was representative of American muscle. Therefore, I attempted to dress up the engine with Shelby parts with exceptions for performance or reliability. Therefore, during the install CPR and I discussed adding:

Holley 600 double pump
MSD Ready to Run distributor
Griffen aluminum radiator
New diaphragm clutch, pressure plate, and pilot bushing
New 289 timing cover
New aluminum high flow water pump
New Ford Racing windage tray
Shelby intake manifold
Shelby “tall” valve covers to fit roller rockers
Shelby 7.5 quart oil pan
Shelby Tri-Y headers

CPR was very helpful with my engine install. They kept me informed and answered all my questions. They also listened to my input and allowed me to make it my way.

CAUTION: What I am about to express are my experiences and I will state the facts as I see them. I am not a professional engine builder, but I know enough and I have had professionals analyze my engine situation. Everyone, has agreed with the below results. Danny from M&R was unable to provide facts or evidence to justify why the engine failed.

DATES:
The 331 stroker was delivered and installed during October 2007. A Dyno and the engine removal was done during February 2008. The engine was removed and returned to M&R on February 14, 2008. The engine was returned by M&R on March 28, 2008.

The engine felt okay during 2007, not a huge difference from my mild 289 that dynoed 220 hp and 260 tq. Some of the initial problems with the 331 stroker were:

1. a rocker came loose during break in period.
2. odd ticking noise during deceleration from the valvetrain.
3. coolant leaking from all head bolts.

As time past, by December 2007, other issues came up.
1. Low HP (206) and TQ (230?) reading on the dyno.
2. Number 8 plug was full of oil.
3. White smoke filled the sky.
4. Head bolts continued to leak coolant.

Pros:
Initial price with delivery included—380 hp and 380 tq
Aluminum heads—weight factor benefit
Will paint block any color—not show quality paint
Comes with two-piece engine stand bolted to pallet
Full roller rocker engine
Two year unlimited mileage warranty
Free return and re-delivery under warranty
Returned with engine accessories installed (distributor, timing cover, water pump, intake, oil pan, etc.)

Cons:
** No clear explanation as to the specific cause of engine malfunction ** with 30 years of experiance
Never received warranty information with engine or after a written request
Labor for removal of failed engine is the customer’s expense or time
Odd stains on Shelby aluminum parts—I added Eastwood Satin Clear that was effected some how
Lettering was removed from new OEM style hoses (bypass/PCV)
Cheaper cork gasket was used on oil pan for re-assembly
Break in cost—more oil and filters, again
Fouled plug re-installed in number 3 piston, not replaced
Down time

Feb2008038.jpg


Feb2008112.jpg


M&R verbally explained that a returned engine is torn down, re-ringed, inspected, and re-assembled.

I was waiting to get my car back together and running before I expressed my experience with Danny and M&R Engines. However, I wanted those potential customers to know my experiences and let them draw their own conclusions.

At this time, I am unable to tell how the returned motor works. Since, I had to remove the M&R engine I decided to paint and detail the engine bay. I decided to go with a T-5z transmission, 3.80 Currie 8” with traction loc, factory A/C from Classic Auto Air, and a JMC hydraulic clutch kit. My project is waiting for the A/C kit and the hydraulic clutch kit--which I cannot locate (everyone is out of stock). Once everything is running I will report back.

Good luck.
 
M&R Engines

Sorry to be a Chevy guy in Ford forum, but this hobby is too expensive to not share information. My experience with these guys was poor also. Bought a long block. Pumped 2 or 3 quarts of antifreeze into the pan in the first ten minutes of run time. When they clearanced the block for the stroker, they ground into the water jacket.

6 weeks later I got bunch of stuff back that was an amalgation of parts from some other engine or engines. Fresh block, different make of pistons and rods. Externally balanced not internally balanced. No SFI sticker on the flexplate. It was very clear that the rotating assembly had turned somewhere, but not in the block they sent. I spent $1300 getting the mess cleaned up, ie, rebalanced the motor, replaced the spring seats, and fixed an issue with the mains. After spending hours thrashing on the reinstall, one of the freeze plugs was leaking. Not really noticeable unless you get real close, but clearly the previous plug was knocked out improperly. Fortunately, I can get to it with engine in car.

I have very detailed digital photos of what I got back. If you are interested, send me a private message and I will send them along.
 
elaudtr, JMC is out of business. No one has any JMC kits left that i have beenable to find. We went with the McLeod hyd TOB on our last project. Comes with the Wilwood MC. Make sure you cal the McLeod tech support and determine the distance from the back of the bellhousing to the pressure plate. We had to wait on spacers, and the McLeod tech will tell you exactly what you need f you have that measurement.
 
My two bits:

I have no experience with either companies mentioned. I have had two bowtie motors rebuilt by local engine builders. The first family operation allowed me to show up after work each day to watch the progress and explained to me what they were doing. The second one had a R&R facility and a separate rebuild facility and also did a quality job, which is why I tend to patronize local businesses. I may have to pay a little more, but I feel that if they have been around for quite awhile, they must be competent.
 
M&R Engines

Update from my experience with a SBF 331 Stroker from M&R Engines.

10-08111.jpg

The engine was re-installed. With the engine install I upgraded to a T5, Cobra clutch, A/C, limited slip 3.80 from Currie, custom driveshaft, and hydraulic clutch kit. A few other engine bay touches to make it look pretty.

Because I was in the area I went to JMC Motorsport, here in San Diego, during late September 2008 when I heard they were "downsizing." By chance, I asked for the hydraulic clutch kit and they (Kevin) said, I can sell you a partial kit--I said WHAT? Well I got everything, but the slave cylinder that sits on the side of the T5. I found that on the internet for another $70.

Back to the 331 Stroker long block. Well, one of the benefits when the engine was returned included the installation of the Cobra T pan. However, it leaks. I am not sure if the pan is defective or poorly installed by M&R and their cork gasket. Although during the first install the oil pan was trimmed and shaved to make it fit and a better gasket was used. I also noticed that the engine had about 180 compressions when it failed during 02/2008. Now, after the re-install, the compression is about 160. I have about 1,000 miles on the engine and it feels okay. It does not feel like a 380 HP and 380 TQ engine as advertised. This is all I have for now. I will update things at a later date. Good luck.
 

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Update from my experience with a SBF 331 Stroker from M&R Engines.

10-08111.jpg

The engine was re-installed. With the engine install I upgraded to a T5, Cobra clutch, A/C, limited slip 3.80 from Currie, custom driveshaft, and hydraulic clutch kit. A few other engine bay touches to make it look pretty.

Because I was in the area I went to JMC Motorsport, here in San Diego, during late September 2008 when I heard they were "downsizing." By chance, I asked for the hydraulic clutch kit and they (Kevin) said, I can sell you a partial kit--I said WHAT? Well I got everything, but the slave cylinder that sits on the side of the T5. I found that on the internet for another $70.

Back to the 331 Stroker long block. Well, one of the benefits when the engine was returned included the installation of the Cobra T pan. However, it leaks. I am not sure if the pan is defective or poorly installed by M&R and their cork gasket. Although during the first install the oil pan was trimmed and shaved to make it fit and a better gasket was used. I also noticed that the engine had about 180 compressions when it failed during 02/2008. Now, after the re-install, the compression is about 160. I have about 1,000 miles on the engine and it feels okay. It does not feel like a 380 HP and 380 TQ engine as advertised. This is all I have for now. I will update things at a later date. Good luck.


i was wondering, whats the update i too bought a motor from them a few months back it seems the heads seem to be the problem im goign to call them and ask if i can exchance the heads for some afrs. right now i am having serious doubts about turning on the motor. i will give them a call sometime this week and i too will keep everyone posted
 
M&R motors and machine AKA M&R engines

:nonono: Crooks with a capital "C". Same crappy engine builder, same crappy management, with a new name. Here's my horror story: Purchased a 489 BBC stroker for a 71 Nova. The motor was professionally installed at $105/hr. Once the exhaust was connected, that's when the problems with the motor could be heard.
On the drivers side a loud thumping sound could be heard deep to the cylinder head. It turns out that Matt Leedy(owner) took the motor off the dyno with a collapsed lifter and shipped it to me. That's not all. Because the valve cover had to be removed, we noticed that he installed rocker arm studs that were too short for the application(Matt was contacted, and he confirmed that he knew about this before the engine was shipped out). That's not all. I went ahead and authorized the mechanic on my buck to have these items repaired. Matt agreed and paid $635.00 towards a $1700 bill(I'm negative about $1,100) after I had to drive to his shop and frankly show my behind. His wife susan is his co-captain and she is just as intent as Matt is on screwing people out of their money. The motor was closed up but now there is noticeble valve train noise on the passenger side of the car(loud ticking sound, motor has a hydraulic roller cam..... supposedly? Chris one his techs told me yesterday he installed a mechanical roller. what the f__k, I ordered a hydraulic roller. So now I have hydraulic roller lifters with a mechanical roller cam?) Matt explains over the phone to me that the ticking sound is normal. I'm like yeah right! My mechanic tells me to come get the car and have M&R motors
and machine AKA M&R engines fix the problems with the motor. I didn't even make it out of the shop, the engine starting leaking oil out heavily just in front of the transmission. The mechanic pulled the trans cover off to find the rear main 2 piece seal was leaking. Apparently, he used an older style 'stroker crank' for a new block which required him to use an adapter. Cheap skate crook! So I went back to him to ask for a refund to purchase a true GM BBC from corporate, he basically told me to go screw myself, and is wife locked me out of the shop. Mustangs fans, this is not your place. My suggestion is buy directly from ford racing
and skip the corner guys, ebay sellers, and anybody else who has not invested millions in R&D on their crate motors. GM Performance Parts....Yes I like to order your GM 572, you know the one that's validated, blue-printed, comes with a real warranty that covers labor and parts. Hint: If you watch Barret Jackson, the cars that fetch the most money have corporate Ford or GM motors in them. Hhhhhm!
 
Pretty much sucks man. Had a rocker arm come loose in about the first 5 min after getting the engine fired up, rocker geometry was wrong, and we had a clack also we couldn't figure out without spending more time with it. Sergio decided to let it go, and that it was under warranty.
When he got the motor, M&R said the PCV was causing the oil in the cyl, and it was because the intake was loose. Funny thing was the intake was loose, because we too it off. We wanted to see if fact that's what was happening. Nope, runnner was completely dry, or at least like it should. When Sergio got the engine back, they told it had new rings in it. Well, if it was the intake, why the new rings ?
And they said they did like 6-7 motors for Boyd. hmm
 
okay update on my 331 stroker...so yeah my mechanic tried turning on my motor low n behold white thick foam over the rockers arms....looked at the radiator fluid contamination oil in the radiator and radiator fluid in the oil pan, they did a cylinder leak down before and found all cyls 140-n dropping.
i called and susan answered explaining that the manager matt i believe but he went to lunch and didnt know when he will be coming back (yeah right). I waited no call,So i called the next day and finally spoke with him I told him the problem and he said it could be the timing chain cover, and/or intake bolts some b.s. i told them its taking too much money n my time to figure this out with my mechanic. he said that he wants a diagnostic report from my shop on whats the problem but i am not letting them touch it cuz he prolly wants them to dismantle it so matt can void my 2 year warranty....they will take out the motor and will be sending it back to them and a huge letter from me asking for my refund, along of evidence that there products are not so high end I.E. procomp electronic heads are made from crappy ass china and is a pure knock off part from edelbrock. i will be building a case against them this shop has gone to far...ill keep posting up as i go along.

here is an article i found a good read and of course what m&r use's http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2006/02/EditorsCorner/index.php

they all got a d rating on BBB.org

i will be purchasing my motor from ford, once this is all done.
 
I did take an "engine rebuilder" to small claims court once. I gave him two chances to repair what he had screwed up. When he finally told me he wasn't going to repair it, I took it to a dealer and had them diagnose the problem which turned out to be the wrong size bearings on the crankshaft. I took the diagnostic paper work to court and won the case, but oh what a headache it was. Good luck.
 
hey just an update..well i sent the motor back the shipper explained that it would take 2 days which i figured okay 2 days, should at least take them another day or 2 to check everything to find the problem..2-3 weeks later never got a call...so i called and susan answered (she always says he is not here, when ever there is a problem) but finally spoke with matt and he said "oo i was just about to call you" (yeah right...) i was like did you check out the motor? at this point he was still acting rude with me saying that i was full of b.s. and that i didnt know what i was talking about and that the motor was fine..then i asked do you have proof that you check the motor? he simply didnt reply and said i sell 20 engines a day you know nothing etc... i wasn't getting a cent back..so i said okay since you dont want to show me proof that you checked it..even though i have pictures of proof i told him i would take legal action..after that he hanged up on me. Wow if he had proof wouldnt he want to show the customer at least? well after that i sent b.a.r. a compliant and im waiting for the results...i will keep you posted.
 
those pictures aren't mine but very similiar.

hey everyone, well i got my case number but BAR is taking a long time. I spoke with an agent that going to handle my case he said he was closing up another case then he was going to go into mine. He said i had alot of info for him but he said thats good the more i have on him the more he will look bad. Either way he said that if its foul play he can close down the store, fine him, and take his license away. So im still waiting at this point but im glad that I went with BAR and not BBB.org. DO NOT GO WITH M&R Engines! go to shop that has a good history and of course a local shop/dealer so you dont have to deal with this kind of hassle.

Anyways i found a builder in my area im going to visit his shop its a 2 man shop i believe and have been building since 1970's so i will see if how they are, if not im buying a ford boss e or b crate motor.