Wow, a flashback thread. Since I contributed previously, I guess its time for an update. Since my last post I've installed a 427w, a Jerico, mini-tubbed the rear and added 4.33 gears.
I discovered that if you have a choice, a taller slick will generally give you a better contact patch than a wider one which equates to better traction off the line. Keep this in mind if you are filling your wheel well and must make the choice.
The
suspension is still pretty much the same as before. On the rear I have Calvert Mono springs, Calvert/Rancho single adjustable shocks, Caltracs in the bottom hole with zero preload. Rear shocks are set at "7" for the track and I adjust it to a softer "3" for the street. I now run a 28x10.5x15S stiff wall MT slick on 10" wide rims. This tire works far superior compared to the old 26x10x15's on 8" rims. The front front of the car is pretty much the same-6 cylinder springs, Calvert 90/10 shocks, and no sway bar. This combo has gotten me 1.46 60'ers with the fastest run being a 10.49@128+mph on a good track. (3550lb race weight, with driver, full interior, roll bar, steel wheels, full tank of gas). I've found that launching at a higher RPM is helpful too as it keeps the motor in its power band-that is if you can stay hooked. In ideal conditions I've popped the clutch at 5700rpms. On my greasy home track I've had to drop down to 4900rpm's to launch consistently which is important when bracket racing. That keeps me in the 1.52-1.57 60's.
Other improvements in traction came from adding a 39lb metal plate where the spare tire would be mounted in the trunk. The battery has been relocated to the trunk and sits on top of the metal plate. I no longer need to add any additional ballast in the trunk. A roll bar was installed and it helped to stiffen the chassis. During the mini-tub the front of the spring perches were welded directly to the rear torque boxes.
The Dart block 427w is shackled because it still runs the AFR205 heads that were on the old 393w. The toploader became much more unreliable when I got it into the 10's and that led me to finding a used Jerico, which has been absolutely flawless over the last couple of years. I have stepped up to a slipper clutch for better launches off the line, plus they are easier on the drivetrain. The old 9" rearend housing was not braced and last year the tube flex caused the center section of the housing to crack. A truck housing was narrowed and braced across the back and on the underside for increased strength. Each time something breaks now, I try to make it better. Of course one could save more money in the long run by biting the bullet and doing it right the first time.
I'm sure I have employed other things that help in drag racing and will add them as I think of them.
Here are a couple of photos from the end of last year: