New Engine won't start, HELP!!!!

[99FiveOh]

ok, at least now we're getting somewhere. You're definately losing compression somewhere. Maybe time to pull that valve cover and rotate the engine and see what your valve train is doing. Let us know what you find.

 

[crogers813]

next

 

[crogers813]

Consecutive low compression in all cylinders could mean that the problem of fuel washed cylinders exists. This means that the engine has had too much fuel introduced into it and all of the oil has been washed off the cylinder walls. The oil creates a sealing effect between the piston and ring assemblies and the cylinder walls of the engine block. Without this thin layer of oil, the engine compression would be allowed to escape into the crankcase. This is common with an engine that has a 'flooding' problem.


HOW DO I COUNTERACT THIS???

 

[99FiveOh]

I have heard by some of my old timer engine builders that they spray a little oil into the cylinder throug the spark plug hole after a bad compression reading. But I still think the car would start even with that condition.

Keep in mind that combustion will still take place because the conditions in the combustion chambers would be ideal for it. And even if it lost alot of compression past the rings, the engine would start up.

 

[crogers813]

I have heard by some of my old timer engine builders that they spray a little oil into the cylinder throug the spark plug hole after a bad compression reading. But I still think the car would start even with that condition.

Keep in mind that combustion will still take place because the conditions in the combustion chambers would be ideal for it. And even if it lost alot of compression past the rings, the engine would start up.

Well the plugs are wet, when I take them out they are dripping with fuel. I just figured the amount of times I've tried starting it, I probably removed any oil there is on the walls.

 

[toyman]

Where is the TFI module located on this car? Like I said, I'm a carb guy, this EFI thing is new to me

Passenger side inner fender behind the air duct. I was thinking that it may have been disconnected when the air duct was removed for the engine build. It's black and is about 1.5"x3.5"x1/4".

 

[95Vert383AOD]

Yeah ...no compression when cranking.....I would Def. check the valve train. But when you pulled the wet plugs did you see any sign that they ever tried to fire??? Im sure there would be some kind of light residue if there was a spark and residual gas. No air escaping means either somethings wrong with the valve train......or maybe some ditz in the factory forgot to install rings???

 

[hotcobra03]

no start

been reading thru and what my guess is..your plugs are fouled out is one,,wet plugs can foul out and still have spark...your resistor in the run circuit could be burnt out..(have you tryed hot wiring the coil?and are you sure about the firing order and tdc ,with rotor pointing to number one on the cap?and you did test for spark at all of the spark plug ends

 

[99FiveOh]

If he doesn't have any compression, then that's a very good sign his problem lies in the motor itself. He just pulled a motor and replaced it. There's nothing to suggest his electronics are to blame at the moment. I say he needs to remove one of the valve covers (preferrably the passenger side since number one is there) and see what's going on. Perhaps the wrong rockers are on there or shimmed wrong or tightened too tight. He could loosen the rocker arms on #1 cylinder and see if the valves seat then.

Then again, if the cam was installed wrong for some reason, then maybe there's bent valves? alot of things.

 

[hotcobra03]

new engine

he said its a new crate engine....how far would you really want to go if it doesnt start......it should have been bench tested already..yes? 2 different firing orders? tdc ? most of the replys point to that...plugs are wet so i think he has fuel....but he hasnt said its backfiring when trying to start..which would tell alot ...also if the battery is shorted it will never start

 

[99FiveOh]

If the battery was shorted, it would go dead and probably damage the battery in the process. In that case, it wouldn't even crank over. This is definately a mystery. Maybe someone on here lives near by him and can go give him a hand with it? I would, but I'm in FL.. not too close..

 

[Daves94vert]

First, Take a day or two off. Pull the plugs and wires and let the fuel completely evaporate out of the cylinders. Are you rotating the engine while your finger is over the #1 spark plug hole? Get yourself a remote starter trigger so you can crank the car while you're still under the hood. put your finger over the #1 hole and crank till the air pressure blows your finger off the plug hole( this is the compression stroke). Put the screwdriver in the hole and rotate the engine, by hand, till top of stroke. While you're rotating to get to top of stroke; look down and your balancer should be approaching 0btdc. Rotate till your screwdriver is at the top and balancer is at 0 (shis should happen at the same time). Stab the dizzy. The rotor and the #1 spark on the dizzy should be roughly at 12:00. check your wires and plugs, install, and give her a crank and let us know what happens.

 

[toyman]

he said its a new crate engine....how far would you really want to go if it doesnt start......it should have been bench tested already..yes? 2 different firing orders? tdc ? most of the replys point to that...plugs are wet so i think he has fuel....but he hasnt said its backfiring when trying to start..which would tell alot ...also if the battery is shorted it will never start

He didn't say it was a crate engine. I asked the question. He says it is a new short block Ford engine.

No compression is worrisome. Cylinder washing can be an issue. As mentioned earlier check oil for gas contamination. Pull a valve cover and check valve/lifter operation as the engine is cranked.

 

[99FiveOh]

If it were me i'd have the valve cover off already. I know its a PITA to pull the upper off, but it's the nature of the beast I guess.

 

[95Vert383AOD]

Ha what would be funny is if he bought a crate 302 with the 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 Firing order.

 

[final5-0]

Lets cut to the chase

Something is hosed in your valve train

No compression

Sounds as if your valves are being held open

Did you cut the heads
Has the deck been cut

I looked closely at your sig

OEM iron heads usually means ped rockers

Could it be your pr's are too long

Your turn to talk now

Grady

 

[95Vert383AOD]

*1987 GT 5.0 camshaft (Most aggressive stock one I'm told)

Wasn't mid 87 the year ford went to roller cam in the 302? Also weren't the non roller motors a different firing order? Something about him doing an EFI setup on a cam from an 87 doesn't sound right.

Chris

 

[KamiKaziDK]

*1987 GT 5.0 camshaft (Most aggressive stock one I'm told)

Wasn't mid 87 the year ford went to roller cam in the 302? Also weren't the non roller motors a different firing order? Something about him doing an EFI setup on a cam from an 87 doesn't sound right.

Chris

I used to have a picture for the camshaft profiles somewhere, they're pretty much the same 87-95, I think two of the profiles are a TIIIINY bit different, but it's definitely not worth the buying them

 

[95Vert383AOD]

My point isn't the profile of the cam but wether its a roller one and what firing order the cam uses. The EFI SBF PCM is designed to support 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 Firing order. Old firing order could really throw things off to the point of not starting.

 

[HISSIN50]

The early SD cams were nice. They were a little noisy due to being aggressive (relatively speaking) so the revised cams were not quite as well liked.

You can make good power with an '87 cam, but it was really careful about the vac signal since it was a SD cam (not that we're not concerned with our vac signal and having the EEC play nice).