Cam Timing Question

[FastDriver]

Thanks for catching that FastDriver. I thought it didn't sound right. However, I would like to add one more thing. Guess I should stick to stud mount (all I ever used).

When spinning the pushrod while hand tightening the bolt - As soon as you feel resistance in the pushrod, this is zero lash. Stop. Then check torque on rocker arm bolt as previously mentioned.

Strype, with this new information, I would definitely check the valves again.

Yeah, it's hard to explain this without showing someone in person. My method (and I know methods are like A-holes) is spinning the pushrod very lightly. Now, if you grab ahold of that SOB and force it, it'll spin well past 0 lash, but if you spin it lightly, when it's seated on both sides it'll stop. Just a technique.

And Strype, the timing stuff mentioned is only going to get you into the ballpark. Once you get her running, you'll have to pull the spout connector and run a timing light on her to dial in the base timing. I think you've already got that, but I just wanted to clarify so that there's absolutely no chance you'll go romp on it with the timing possibly too advanced.

I can't remember exactly, but I want to say there's about a 30* window, in crank degrees, to either side of center of the rotor. If you're outside of that window, the spark could jump to one of the adjacent cylinders, and the car won't start.

Chris

 

[Strype]

we have fuel pressure now but no compression on 3 of the 4 we checked. Checked 1 2 3 and 6. 6 had 125 and 1 2 3 never budged the guage at all. Bent valves or push rods from 15 second start up last week or worse? Ill back the rocker arms off and check all of them for compression again
Posted via Mobile Device

 

[Strype]

Okay I backed off the rocker arms a full turn or more and checked the compression:

1=158
2=155
3=150
4=140
5=120
6=130
7=130
8=unknown cause I can't bloody get the compression tester to it

So I've got compression and it's within the 25% that the Haynes or Chiltons calls for. As for the lower compressions on the drivers side, the car had a head gasket blow on that side years ago and we figure it was probably a little harder on that side.

Rocker arms were WAY too tight. It seems that my $30 Oreilly torque wrench is not doing so well. So I'm gonna order a shim kit and crank her over after that. Cross your fingers@!!!!

The stock injectors are back in. It was a royal PITA to get the rails on the BBK SSI back together without it leaking. I will be contacting BBK. I'm guessing the first time I hit 2nd gear the SSI will start leaking fuel again. She's hanging on by a prayer. It's the tube that sits in between the rails that's the problem. TERRIBLE DESIGN!

As for the 24lb fuel injectors I bought off of Ebay, I will be contacting him here in a few minutes, as well as paypal and ebay.

So whenever I get my shim kit I'll be cranking her over. I hope all goes well.



I wish I could put into words how much I appreciate your help gentlemen. Last night I was at my wits end at 2:00am (started working on the car at 6:00pm) after two rum drinks and zero compression, but alas the day has been good to me and I've learned a lot. Not out of the woods yet but I can see the clearing

 

[Strype]

Crap I forgot to change the maf sensor back out

I'll do it later. I hurt.

 

[Strype]

About to go shim the rocker arms with your advice gentlemen

 

[67coupe]

Sweet. Keep up the good work. Let us know how it turns out.

Sounds like you fixed the fuel leak?

 

[Strype]

er sort of... Enough to crank it over

If BBK isn't much help I'll have to put an AN fitting on each rail and patch up the old holes.

 

[Strype]

n/m

 

[Strype]

n/m

 

[Strype]

Hey how about if I put the correct spark plugs in and try that tonight! The GT40X heads take AGSF-32C spark plugs

 

[67coupe]

True. Hard to have complete combustion with plugs that are too short. Does that banana mean the engine is running????

 

[Strype]

It ran shortly when the rockers were loosened way too loose. I'm at a loss I have no idea. It will sit

 

[NotchAbove]

You really need to just relax, I know its very frustrating. When you first started it seems that your dizzy was just not set right, but now I am not sure where you are at.

Here is what you need to do.

1) Re-adjust the rockers. See Step #12 on Page 56 of this link. It does not get any simpler than that.

Mustang 5.0 Projects: Performance ... - Google Book Search

2) Now once you have the rockers set put everything back together except the distributor and the #1 spark plug. - Put a 15/16 Socket on the crank and your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole, ratchet the engine over it over until the air blows out your thumb. At this point stop. Breath. Now, look at where your harmonic balancer is lining up, it should be coming towards the -0- mark. If so, we are doing good. Keep turning until you hit 10* (this will be to the right of the -0-). Again at this point stop. Hold your distributor in hand, with the cap on, locate the #1 plug wire. Draw a black line with a marker on the outside of the distributor (not the cap), now remove the cap, and draw the same line on the inside of the distributor. Again, stop and breath here. - Now put the distributor in the engine, and as you will notice as you drop it in the rotor turns, so you need to ensure the rotor is in the 9-10 oclock position before you drop it in, and then it will turn as you seat the distributor, you want it to line up the the mark you drew. At this point. Your done. Put the plug in, the wires on, and start it up.

 

[67coupe]

I noticed in the your other thread (asking whether or not you had pedestal mount heads) that if you shimmed a rocker, it took way more than 1 turn to reach 18 lb-ft.

What size are the shims? Which shim kit are you using?

It sounds like your shims are too thick. Do you have a set of calipers? If so, could you measure the assortment of shims you are using?

 

[Strype]

You really need to just relax, I know its very frustrating. When you first started it seems that your dizzy was just not set right, but now I am not sure where you are at.

Here is what you need to do.

1) Re-adjust the rockers. See Step #12 on Page 56 of this link. It does not get any simpler than that.

Mustang 5.0 Projects: Performance ... - Google Book Search

2) Now once you have the rockers set put everything back together except the distributor and the #1 spark plug. - Put a 15/16 Socket on the crank and your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole, ratchet the engine over it over until the air blows out your thumb. At this point stop. Breath. Now, look at where your harmonic balancer is lining up, it should be coming towards the -0- mark. If so, we are doing good. Keep turning until you hit 10* (this will be to the right of the -0-). Again at this point stop. Hold your distributor in hand, with the cap on, locate the #1 plug wire. Draw a black line with a marker on the outside of the distributor (not the cap), now remove the cap, and draw the same line on the inside of the distributor. Again, stop and breath here. - Now put the distributor in the engine, and as you will notice as you drop it in the rotor turns, so you need to ensure the rotor is in the 9-10 oclock position before you drop it in, and then it will turn as you seat the distributor, you want it to line up the the mark you drew. At this point. Your done. Put the plug in, the wires on, and start it up.

I know I know I have the patience of a 2 year old. I think she's in time now she cranked for a bit and stupid me had the wrong spark plugs in

I called Ford Tech and the dude said not to be in a hurry on the rocker arms. He said to turn and wait 20-40 seconds and do it again.

I noticed in the your other thread (asking whether or not you had pedestal mount heads) that if you shimmed a rocker, it took way more than 1 turn to reach 18 lb-ft.

What size are the shims? Which shim kit are you using?

It sounds like your shims are too thick. Do you have a set of calipers? If so, could you measure the assortment of shims you are using?

No they were over turning until I shimmed some of them. Not all of them needed it. they are .030 and .060

 

[67coupe]

Sorry. Damn pedestal mount rockers have me confused again.

So, are the valves now adjusted properly?

Have you fired it up since getting the right plugs?

 

[Strype]

I'm lazy...

Okay I go torque them down again...


Should only take an hour

 

[Strype]

That is to say that my neighbor made me loosen them and it seemed to help but I'm not sold on this being valve train related since I had the wrong spark plugs and I'm actually still losing a bit of pressure it seems unless the new AFPR and rails are making it bleed of faster

 

[jikelly]

That is to say that my neighbor made me loosen them and it seemed to help but I'm not sold on this being valve train related since I had the wrong spark plugs and I'm actually still losing a bit of pressure it seems unless the new AFPR and rails are making it bleed of faster

Dang I was hoping you had your stang running by now. Wish I was closer so I could help you get in there and solve this problem.

 

[67coupe]

That is to say that my neighbor made me loosen them and it seemed to help but I'm not sold on this being valve train related since I had the wrong spark plugs and I'm actually still losing a bit of pressure it seems unless the new AFPR and rails are making it bleed of faster

You are referring to fuel pressure? How fast is it bleeding off?