Now I've been getting a bunch of PM's about how I am doing the process, and what products I am using. Well Let me list them here, so I can help some of you along your way to getting your resto's started/completed.
First there is assessment of the worst: Really take a step back and look at what your dealing with. My car had some really good lines, not really many dents (It is 22 years old). It does take skill to finesse the finish of your car. Paintucation videos can only show you the methods and such, it will never replace the feel of doing it and thinking you have it perfect, only to have an experienced person come and show you what you did wrong. Some cars are in mint condition, yet still have flaws in the bodywork. Really and I mean REALLY take a step back and see what needs to be replaced, poked, prodded, hammered, welded, filled, cut, etc etc etc.
Fillers: You have your bondo, you have feather fills, you have glazing putty. Use them in that sequence. Fill your major dents first, Bondo is good for THICK heavy filling. And when I mean think I don't mean redesigning the aerodynamics of your car think, I mean between 1/2-1/4" of thickness, and thats still thick. Your dent's should not be so far in, pull them out with a slide hammer, or pound them out with a hammer. You can always fill a bit, so don't worry about pounding them too far.
Next use a feather fill or lightweight filler. for 1/4-1/16 filling, slight ripples in the paint, a small door ding, etc. This is a compound used to help level larger areas. I ended up skimming my whole roof with this stuff, due to some minor rust pitting. This is also another product applied prior to the first coat of primer.
Final pinholes, paint chip recesses and further shallow low spots can be filled using a glazing putty (might want to get 2 of these tubes). Never sand down chipping paint. You will end up with low spots galore, or waves in the finished panel. Refill this lost layer with the glazing/spot putty.
After the first coat of primer, you can mist coat to help find the highs/lows in the panels when you sand it over. The second coat of primer will help fill in minor pinholes, and Give you a nice even layer (assuming you use a filler primer) and if you get a nice smooth coat after sanding this layer with 320-400 grit paper, than you should not need a third coat. I am using Evercoats Featherfill Buff colored primer. 3m/Bondo Glazing putty, and Evercoats featherfill lightweight filler.
Paint will be PPG base coat (and I have not settled on a clear yet)
Tools needed: (maybe more depending on what you have to work with)
Sanding block, various sizes help, but time and patience can make the small one work fine..
Paper/Tape (cover what you don't want painted/primed)
Primer (I picked up a gallon of Evercoats Featherfill for only $66/gallon)
Glazing putty (get two tubes, can be gotten for about $5/ea)
Featherfill (Got a quart for about $20, but mostly used some old stuff on the shelf)
Sandpaper, (Get the big sheets and cut them yourself, or get the rolls if you need them longer, Price varies, but usually $3-4/per pack of 5. 180-400 grit should be sufficient, unless major paint removal is required.)
Time (if you can't set aside the time to get it done until it's finished don't start, don't be like me and have to put it off for a week at a time, but do take the time to get it done right as well)
I know I have missed plenty, I will amend this post, and add as I need to. Please keep in mind that I do not have any experience myself with bodywork. This is my first go at it, and I thank my stepdad for his experience and knowledge in getting this project ready for me, and kicking me in the butt when I get lazy on it. Thanks fellas for all your kind words, and hopefully before February is done I'll have a sick Bimimi Blue Hatch for all your viewing pleasure. Thanks
