Pics of project 400rwhp N/A stock block 331

What was the original cam you had in the car when you made 457rwhp. Looking good. I'm finally getting around to dialing in my 347 and I'm trying to collect some camshaft info. I don't think I'll get numbers like that, because I'm simply not willing to rev it that high.

Kurt

It was an AFM N91 cam. Why don't you want to rev it high? :shrug:

If I had a 347 I would look at a XE282 with possibly a set of 1.7RRs. I think that would be a nice cam. Or maybe a VooDoo stick.

Also have you talked to Cam Motion Home Page ? They are some good guys and if you give them a starting point they might could cut you a nice cam. :nice:
 
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If you're interested in eliminating rear end squat when accelerating, get a pair of HPM's Mega-bite Jr control arms. I've installed them on both my Cobra clone and my GT; no more squat on acceleration. The reason cars squat on acceleration is because the pinion angle causes the axle to pull up, thus pulling the wheels away from the pavement. This is not what you want. The Jr's alter this angle so the axle pushes downwards, pushing the tires into the pavement. I can still squeal my tires in both cars, it just takes a bit more work.
 
I can't find the specs on the Anderson N91 cam, but oh well. My current camshaft is bigger than the XE282HR. .574"/.595' 110 lobe sep and 236/248 @ .050". I don't want to rev it up high, because it's an old and tired stock block 2 bolt 347. Right now I'm shifting at 6200rpms which seems to be doing pretty well. Max power is at 5650rpm.

Kurt
 
If you're interested in eliminating rear end squat when accelerating, get a pair of HPM's Mega-bite Jr control arms. I've installed them on both my Cobra clone and my GT; no more squat on acceleration. The reason cars squat on acceleration is because the pinion angle causes the axle to pull up, thus pulling the wheels away from the pavement. This is not what you want. The Jr's alter this angle so the axle pushes downwards, pushing the tires into the pavement. I can still squeal my tires in both cars, it just takes a bit more work.

Matt, I don't disagree with you much around here, but what you just posted is :bs:!

In straight line racing OF COURSE you want the rear end to squat. It helps tremendously with weight transfer. Now wheel hop is another matter and one I believe is more related to pinion angle and binding.
 
Matt, I don't disagree with you much around here, but what you just posted is :bs:!

In straight line racing OF COURSE you want the rear end to squat. It helps tremendously with weight transfer. Now wheel hop is another matter and one I believe is more related to pinion angle and binding.

No actually he is correct, you don't want the rear end to squat. That is wasted energy. You want to plant the tires into the ground instead. Obviously there will be some squat and that is what I was talking about, not alot though.
 
talk to me about the valve train and rods/pistons

did you go with the absolute lightest ones you could find to support revving it so high?

or what did you go with?

my next build (if there is one) would have a goal of being able to quickly rev it to 7500
 
Im confused on the whole spring rate thing.:shrug: My 331 is sitting on the stand, Pro Ibeams and probe pistons, AFR 185 Heads, stock springs and a ford B cam..:notnice::nonono:. So im all drag race now and want this baby to spin some Rs!!
what do you think?
JT
 
talk to me about the valve train and rods/pistons

did you go with the absolute lightest ones you could find to support revving it so high?

or what did you go with?

my next build (if there is one) would have a goal of being able to quickly rev it to 7500

Yes the valve train is light, I focused alot on the valve train and the valves themselves. Sorry to say guys but I really don't want to go into detail there. :(

But you are also correct on the rotating assembly. I knew I wanted it to rev fast but I had a budget. So I chose to go with a cast crank, its a Scat crank. And I went with some FORGED Scat I beam rods. The pistons are just Trickflow pistons. If I could do it over again I would coat the pistons though. Wish I had done that. But my rotating assembly is nothing special, very cheap parts you can get out of Summit.

Now I cannot say for sure and someone may argue with me and that is completely fine. But on a stock block I would be alittle more nervous about reving a 347 that high. The added stroke pushes harder on the outside of the cylinders and that is just added stress.

Also IMO if you are going to rev a motor that high a main girdle is a must and so is some rocker arm stud girdles. And before someone says the main girdle does nothing but keep the block together after it splits, you are wrong. The main girdle also helps keep the caps from walking, one of the causes of a cracked block.

Hope that helped some.
 
Also IMO if you are going to rev a motor that high a main girdle is a must and so is some rocker arm stud girdles. And before someone says the main girdle does nothing but keep the block together after it splits, you are wrong. The main girdle also helps keep the caps from walking, one of the causes of a cracked block.

Hope that helped some.

Totally agree. My engine is without a main girdle, or rocker girdle. Low Revs for me.

Kurt