starting my swap
- Thread starter dave181760
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what are you talking about? Im pretty sure you can use an 89 harness My buddies car has harnesses from 3 different years in it.
lancec2c30
Member
the thing is that (why ford did it but they did) with 90 through 93, instead of the 2 conectors that conect the dash harness to engine harness, 90 through 93, have one conector and ford made 90 a stand alone harness, and 91 a stand alone harness, 92 and 93 are the same, and my car is a 91 with 91 harness, if i buy a 89 i gota buy the dash harness as well, and thats more then i want to spend and more work that dosent need to be done, if worse comes to wore ill buy another 91 harness or look for a new one, i dont want to but i will if i have too.
If your swapping everything from car to car why dont you use ther harnesses from that one car instead of mickey mousing everything. and splicing broken harnesses back together.
the one on the donor car was cut so bad that half the stuff didnt work and i dont got the harness anymore or i would have done that insted of buying the 2 harnesses i got now
i want to deleate my ac, i already pulled the lines just gona unbolt and remove and i wanna pull my power stearing pump as wel,l but im broke at the moment so i cant buy a manual rack so im wandering if i can disconect it and somhow put the lines together and be fine, my civic i had the previos owner had did that and it was fine, i like the way it felt on the road, and also what kinda belt would i have to buy or size to make this work thanks guys.
Keep the power steering. Its gonna be harder the steer like you wanna do it then if you get a manual rack
ok so im done with this stupid ****ing harness that was cut here and there that the ******* on ebay said was perfect and i know the 91 harness is stand alone but im going to use the 93 harness and the car can have 2 fuel pump relays i dont see why it would'nt work if anyone has any sugestions shoot
Beasty306GT
Active Member
i know i need the 91 harness but i dont got funds and wont for some time ive spent all i had on the 2 harnesses i have and little odds and ends and nobody wants to buy the one i have at the moment the 93 harness i know others have most likely found a way to make it work so my question being is it posible it could work it would be temporary of course just so i can start and move it so city will get off my back im almost done with the compleate swap and im in a hury to drive it well not that much of a hury but still lol its been a year of sitting and 6months of swaping
i did a search and im not the only person who has had the fuel pump not priming issue, i guess its somwhat common with the swap at times not all the time but somwone found a way to bypass this issue, many of would prob not agree with it but im going to give it a shot and well see what happens. i coppyed what ive found and will paste it for all to see. thanks again for the help ive goten so far, without you guys id still at the begining lol.
Originally Posted by MrKwik
quote from here: http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=557489
For one, I wouldnt suggest using the 2.3 EFI pump. But as far as not coming on....did you remove the computer and EFI harness when you swappen in the 5.0? If you did, you would have to do some creative rewiring to get the fuel pump to run. The easy way is to just splice 2 wires together in the passenger kick panel where the computer used to be. I can tell you exactly which wires but it will have to wait till I get home this evening. I made wiring diagrams when I rewired my 4cyl to 5.0 cars. There is a green and a grey connector in the kick that have the wires you need. You just splice a "hot in run" wire to the fuel pump wire. I think the hot in run wire is grey/yellow and I'm thinking that the wire that goes back to the inertia switch is red/blue but dont hold me to that. I personally like to wire in a relay and oil pressure switch so that the pump doesnt run if the engine isnt running but it isnt totally required.
OK, I have the correct wire colors now. The "hot in run" wire is grey with a yellow stripe. The wire to the fuel pump inertia switch is dk green with a yellow stripe. They are both located in the passenger side kick panel by the ECM in the green 8-pin connector. I Always wire in a relay and an oil pressure switch but you can just solder and shring them together and the pump will run whenever the key is in the IGN posistion.
I know this is correct for 91-93 but you didnt say what year your car is so if its older I suppose there is a possibility the wire codes could be different.
Attached Thumbnails
I wasn't going to do the relay..I was just going to splice the two wires together...like this:
...I'm going to do nothing until I try to crank it over and see if I have the problem...if I do I plant to splice those two wires together. I'll plan to leave some extra off the plug incase it was the wrong move...
quote from here: http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=557489
For one, I wouldnt suggest using the 2.3 EFI pump. But as far as not coming on....did you remove the computer and EFI harness when you swappen in the 5.0? If you did, you would have to do some creative rewiring to get the fuel pump to run. The easy way is to just splice 2 wires together in the passenger kick panel where the computer used to be. I can tell you exactly which wires but it will have to wait till I get home this evening. I made wiring diagrams when I rewired my 4cyl to 5.0 cars. There is a green and a grey connector in the kick that have the wires you need. You just splice a "hot in run" wire to the fuel pump wire. I think the hot in run wire is grey/yellow and I'm thinking that the wire that goes back to the inertia switch is red/blue but dont hold me to that. I personally like to wire in a relay and oil pressure switch so that the pump doesnt run if the engine isnt running but it isnt totally required.
OK, I have the correct wire colors now. The "hot in run" wire is grey with a yellow stripe. The wire to the fuel pump inertia switch is dk green with a yellow stripe. They are both located in the passenger side kick panel by the ECM in the green 8-pin connector. I Always wire in a relay and an oil pressure switch but you can just solder and shring them together and the pump will run whenever the key is in the IGN posistion.
I know this is correct for 91-93 but you didnt say what year your car is so if its older I suppose there is a possibility the wire codes could be different.
Attached Thumbnails
I wasn't going to do the relay..I was just going to splice the two wires together...like this:
...I'm going to do nothing until I try to crank it over and see if I have the problem...if I do I plant to splice those two wires together. I'll plan to leave some extra off the plug incase it was the wrong move...
Originally Posted by MrKwik
quote from here: 302 swap problem - Mustang Forums at StangNet
For one, I wouldnt suggest using the 2.3 EFI pump. But as far as not coming on....did you remove the computer and EFI harness when you swappen in the 5.0? If you did, you would have to do some creative rewiring to get the fuel pump to run. The easy way is to just splice 2 wires together in the passenger kick panel where the computer used to be. I can tell you exactly which wires but it will have to wait till I get home this evening. I made wiring diagrams when I rewired my 4cyl to 5.0 cars. There is a green and a grey connector in the kick that have the wires you need. You just splice a "hot in run" wire to the fuel pump wire. I think the hot in run wire is grey/yellow and I'm thinking that the wire that goes back to the inertia switch is red/blue but dont hold me to that. I personally like to wire in a relay and oil pressure switch so that the pump doesnt run if the engine isnt running but it isnt totally required.
OK, I have the correct wire colors now. The "hot in run" wire is grey with a yellow stripe. The wire to the fuel pump inertia switch is dk green with a yellow stripe. They are both located in the passenger side kick panel by the ECM in the green 8-pin connector. I Always wire in a relay and an oil pressure switch but you can just solder and shring them together and the pump will run whenever the key is in the IGN posistion.
I know this is correct for 91-93 but you didnt say what year your car is so if its older I suppose there is a possibility the wire codes could be different.
Attached Thumbnails
I wasn't going to do the relay..I was just going to splice the two wires together
quote from here: 302 swap problem - Mustang Forums at StangNet
For one, I wouldnt suggest using the 2.3 EFI pump. But as far as not coming on....did you remove the computer and EFI harness when you swappen in the 5.0? If you did, you would have to do some creative rewiring to get the fuel pump to run. The easy way is to just splice 2 wires together in the passenger kick panel where the computer used to be. I can tell you exactly which wires but it will have to wait till I get home this evening. I made wiring diagrams when I rewired my 4cyl to 5.0 cars. There is a green and a grey connector in the kick that have the wires you need. You just splice a "hot in run" wire to the fuel pump wire. I think the hot in run wire is grey/yellow and I'm thinking that the wire that goes back to the inertia switch is red/blue but dont hold me to that. I personally like to wire in a relay and oil pressure switch so that the pump doesnt run if the engine isnt running but it isnt totally required.
OK, I have the correct wire colors now. The "hot in run" wire is grey with a yellow stripe. The wire to the fuel pump inertia switch is dk green with a yellow stripe. They are both located in the passenger side kick panel by the ECM in the green 8-pin connector. I Always wire in a relay and an oil pressure switch but you can just solder and shring them together and the pump will run whenever the key is in the IGN posistion.
I know this is correct for 91-93 but you didnt say what year your car is so if its older I suppose there is a possibility the wire codes could be different.
Attached Thumbnails
I wasn't going to do the relay..I was just going to splice the two wires together
i got her to start with the 93 harness and no relay, i did the cut and splice as what others have done in the search i did. anyways pump primes, but its weird tho, i would go into the whole whyits weird but its long, long story short i lost my keys and had no back ups went to buy new ignition and my budy thought it would be smart to drill the old one out and he did and the littlr sproket came out, i did my best to reinstall it and did ok i guess, well here we are to the weird part, so in order for it to prime i gota hold the key in a posistionand it will prime, i know the ignition assembly is mest up im going to try and mess witht he sproket and see if i can get it on point if not my question is, can i use the ignition assembly off the 89 on my 91, if so is it hard to swap out.
You have to take out the instrument cluster. You will only have a few inches to get your hand back ther and turn the clip out. It is a pain in the ass to get it back in. the line will just barely reach so if you have some one to push on the line from the fire wall it will give u more slack.
