Does anyone know how to understand SCT logs?

mathew:

Thanks for the info/answers.

Another question: was the plastic insert part of the original installation? If so, I am worried about my theory! Here's why: the valve is far away from the entry into the PP so the size of the vavle won't have any effect on velocity. On the other hand, a larger valve or a second valve in parallel will reduce the pressure in the system faster. Perhaps the problem is that the blower is still seeing backpressure (generally, this is bad for a compressor since it can move the operating point into an unstable region known as surge). Now we have two theories.

edit

Did a little searching on Corral and found some interesting info. One fellow was using the stock Bosch bypass valve, p/n 0 280 142 102 for 7 psig. another poster suggested going to an Audi/Saab dealer and getting the 710N Bosch bypass, p/n 0 280 142 110 because it is rated up to 15psig and the price is right at $50.

end of edit

Chris

Thanks. I already placed an order for a mondo though :( I e-mailed the company to cancel the order but I feel its to late. I wonder If i can call my bank to put a stop payment on it?

After recent discovery I realized i don't need but 1 more plastic one. I took your advice and removed the plastic piece in the PP and put the hose over that part. The car feels much better. After looking at the logs it looks much better too. I think the swirls in the whole might be slowing the air down enough to make the car feel better. Its about 70% better. A second Bosch bypass would be perfect. If I can cancel my order I'll buy another one of the bosh bypasses and the the pro racer package.

Here are the recent logs. Take a look. I also notice my fuel is back! I ran it up to 5k today to test it and no smoke, on top of that the fpdc is much lower now! If that plastic piece went in backwards and let me push the air towards the propeller then it would be perfect. I'm thinking of taking my dremel and sanding the inside out of that piece to see if i can fit that plastic piece in there later. Then log again.

http://home.comcast.net/~mathew82284/Logs10.rar

Edit: the company already e-mailed me saying its shipped. O we'll I'll just have to refuse shipment and take a loss on shipping i guess. Or resell it on ebay. I only got the mondo over the others because I was afraid the small ones wouldn't be enough. Now after realizing it got better I'd rather spend that money on tuning software.
 
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mathew:

Advice: Don't put a stop payment on the bypass valve. I am sure that once you explain the situation and tell them you are buying a stock valve that they will allow you to cancel the mondo valve. You may get dinged for shipping (both ways) but it will be a smaller cost than what the bank will charge you and, of course, better than paying for the big valve that you don't need.

Good work with the PP mods!

I'll take a look at your log shortly and report back. It is great that you are reporting that the car is feeling better (to you, not that the car is 'feeling better').

Chris
 
mathew:

Advice: Don't put a stop payment on the bypass valve. I am sure that once you explain the situation and tell them you are buying a stock valve that they will allow you to cancel the mondo valve. You may get dinged for shipping (both ways) but it will be a smaller cost than what the bank will charge you and, of course, better than paying for the big valve that you don't need.

Good work with the PP mods!

I'll take a look at your log shortly and report back. It is great that you are reporting that the car is feeling better (to you, not that the car is 'feeling better').

Chris

Yup thanks. I actually decided on to do a stop payment instead I e-mailed them and its shipped. I'd rather loose on shipping and get another stock one.

I'm just happy the fuel is back to normal ish so far and that I didnt have to drop the tank. I guess the maf being way distrubed was troublesome on my whole fuel system. That explains why it was smelling rich even though the car thought it was lean.
 
Looks like you are well on your way to figuring it all out! Great job! Having major issues to deal with and figuring them out is the best way to get a good education on how to troubleshoot and fix your car!
Don
 
mat82284:

Your underhood work has worked some magic, as Don said, and the MAF signal is looking better in both logs.

From update.csv:

Time period 751 to 755, steady throttle, but noisy MAF. Generally, MAF looks more calm and less jittery.

From update2.csv:

Time period 157 to 176, steady throttle but noisy MAF. Otherwise, the MAF looks much better except when the throttle is closed (RPM decreasing). Looks better!

Based on the look of the MAF now, you should have confidence that the second valve will further improve/eliminate the jittery signal.

Keep up the good work.

Chris
 
Thanks guys.

Just an update. My parts are on the way. I actually canceled the Mondo bypass. They canceled my order, Just waiting my refund. I also bought a set of GT pumps and a modified fpdm. I need to get a set of 80lb injectors here soon. Then sell off my old parts. I found an old Greddy blow of valve I had laying around when I used to own an eclipse a while ago. I ordered a new pipe, then I'll slap that on and do some logs. If everything checks out and I take the money I got from my old parts and buy the PRP package from don.

I'll be buying it from Don with the video. Hopefully Don can set me up with a basic tune and if possible maybe you guys could help guide me to tune my car for e85.
 
Little update.

I completely redid my bypass valves. I now have two installed. One stock bosh unit and my old greddy blow of valve. Both recirculating into my powerpipe. The car feels totally different. Its smooth, and gentle. The car idles and drives welll. I didnt get on it yet though. I spent most the day cutting, shaping, replacing my intercooler pipes. Now I know i was pushing boost when I should have been. My bypass valve use to make that sound of releasing air when I let off at 2.5k rpms. Now there is no sound with part throttle. Only with full throttle and when my boost gauge reads boost.

I'll do another log, slow rpms and full throttle to see how my car is reacting.

After adding the 2nd valve I test drove it to make sure it wasnt the pumps. I then swapped out the pumps to Ford GT pumps. The tune seems to be accepting it just fine. Car runs smooth as well. Now i need to swap my injectors out for 80's then get the pro racer package. I'm ready to start using ethonal. Dam gas prices are insane here. Its now $3.40 for premium. Ethanol is only $2.80 a gallon. I figured there is a loss in gas mileage, but even if its came out to $3.40 because of that loss its still better to run since its cleaner and more octane than our crappy 91.
 
Sounds great - now you know that you HAVE to fix mechanical issues before a tune can be done. You are well on your way. FYI - Ford GT pumps do require a several step tuning change in the PCM or the fueling will do funky things on you, usually at WOT. Plus the fuel pump voltage table, even though it is adaptive, will have to be tuned, something you can do with the Pro Racer software. I'm still out this week but found a tiny area with wireless!!
 
Sounds great - now you know that you HAVE to fix mechanical issues before a tune can be done. You are well on your way. FYI - Ford GT pumps do require a several step tuning change in the PCM or the fueling will do funky things on you, usually at WOT. Plus the fuel pump voltage table, even though it is adaptive, will have to be tuned, something you can do with the Pro Racer software. I'm still out this week but found a tiny area with wireless!!

Thanks. I actually finally got the tune today. Still missing the tune for the 80's though. As soon as I sell my old products I should be able to place an order for the pro racing package. Cant wait to test it out. I hope your on vacation and having fun.
 
Hey don, my tuner accidentally sent me the mtf file. I couldn't upload that to my livewire, then he sent the correct one cef. Does this mean I can access the mtf file on the pro racer package and edit from there? That would be a sweet victory if it works.

Could one of you two look at my log file. This is with the new tune file from my tuner. My old tune file stays at 40psi this one is all over. Could the tune be bad or could this mean the fuel rail sensor is kaput?

With the new tune file the car stays at 50psi or more. When going WOT even for a second the fuel pressure drops to 40psi then sits there for a second or two then goes back up to 50. This worked multiple times and I got the same results.

I then reprogrammed the ecu with the original tune with the (2 svt focus pumps) then the cars fuel pressure was at 40psi and stayed there.

I then reprogrammed it back to the new tune and it was back to 50 again.

http://home.comcast.net/~mathew82284/Town.zip
 
Hey chris and don.

I got a new log this time. Last time we had issues with my fuel pump duty cycle. I'm confused. I swapped the pumps and im running the new tune and im still geting .50 fpdc with the new GT super pumps. I know i'm not running lean either. Since i have my wideband hooked up and its reading 11.3-11.6 what could cause it to report my fpdc to be so high? I'm still confused on this. I want to tune for ethonal soon but now im wondering if something else is wrong... Or maybe its the custom tune that has its voltages messed up?


http://home.comcast.net/~mathew82284/new log.zip
 
Could be you need to upgrade the wiring as well, can't remember if you did. Or the FPVT needs to be dialed in better. Are you running a modified FPDM or two FPDMs with those pumps? Most people have better luck with two of them.
 
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im running a modified fpdm. im starting to think my tuner did a bad job dialing in the pumps. this happened to the focus pumps now the gt pumps. im going to upgrade the wiring this weekend. as for the pumps though, they show maxed with the fpdc but my air fuel gauge says its not running lean. i also noticed the fuel pressure drops. kinda like the engine knows there is way to much fuel so they dial down the pressure to compensate since the pumps are flowing to much. hopefully you understand what im saying, im typing on my phone lol.
 
When the FPDC starts dropping the PCM reacts by giving more injector PW, so you won't notice it at first, but once the A/F does start dropping, it drops like a rock.

Are you saying the decrease in fuel pressure is because the injectors are at max pulse width?

I'm not sure whats going on but i figured it was something like this..

/the fuel pressure drops because the fuel pumps are running at max. The ecu is compensating for the extra fuel lowering fuel pressure. My assumption is that the fuel pumps are dialed in wrong causing them to flow way more than needed. Almost as if they run at full capacity at all times. What im confused about is the fuel pressure when boost is on. The fuel pressure drops to 30psi in boost and it should rise was boost rises. I took the car to 6.5k today and it still had an air fuel of 11.3 and even reached 10.5. So something is going wrong but im not sure what. I was thinking that the voltage on the fuel pumps is 6v at idle and then as i hit higher rpms the voltage rises and that maybe this is whats causing the fpdc to think its maxed because the ecu rises the volts only when needed.

Long story short I'm guessing this is tune related. My tuner accidentally sent me his tune file and I'll pm you a link to it to take a look at it. I'm not asking for you to modify it and send a new one to me, just look to see if you see anything terribly wrong with it. I'm for sure 100% buying that pro racer package from you at the end of the month. Just waiting for the money to come through.

This tune is supposed to be with dual ford gt pumps. For some reason i feel the tuner screwed this up in the tune.
 
Yes, basically it - no more FP, so the PCM keeps increasing PW to compensate.

May NOT be in the tune - may be wiring, or something else. With 2 GT pumps, you DO need either 2 FPDM's (best) or a modded FPDM (not the best choice IMHO).

You'll be able to datalog and change the FPVT with the PRP and training video - takes time to do it, but it's easy, but tedious.

BTW - the file you sent me was a .cef, not an .mtf - can't open those...
 
Yes, basically it - no more FP, so the PCM keeps increasing PW to compensate.

May NOT be in the tune - may be wiring, or something else. With 2 GT pumps, you DO need either 2 FPDM's (best) or a modded FPDM (not the best choice IMHO).

You'll be able to datalog and change the FPVT with the PRP and training video - takes time to do it, but it's easy, but tedious.

BTW - the file you sent me was a .cef, not an .mtf - can't open those...

Thanks,

There was a cef and mtf file. He sent both and it was the first file in the zip?

I have a modified fpdm.

There has to be something wrong that I cant figure out. This is strange. I barly have 500rwhp and im running out of fuel. This makes no sense at all. I should be able to run that upto 800+ hp with those 2 pumps.

Could a clogged fuel filter cause this to happen? I'm stumped and now its getting annoying only because i want to use the pro racer package to run ethanol. Which wont be possible since my car seems to act like my pumps are stock cobra pumps when there not.

Oh, the only reason i was thinking it could have been the tune is because of my tuner. When I asked him if he adjusted the tune for 2 ford gt pumps and not just one, he responded say he just assumed the file from sct was for both fuel pumps and not just one and that he would get back to me.

After that i really don't trust him anymore, he should know what he's actually doing if he's modifying tunes for people.