Nightmare's Progress Thread!

SEMI UPDATE

Well being that I am in the Marine Corps. reserve I am extremely busy during the summer months. That being said I havn't had a lot of time to work on the Stang. Well I was able to get the ball joint seperator today and start getting the suspension apart. Well as it turns out I need a tie rod seperator too. The damn one I got is too wide and just goes around the tie rod. This is beginning to be a PITA already. Anyways I have everything apart and ready to go once I get the ball joints and tie rods seperated. I should be updating a little more now that all our summer training is done with.
 
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i know for sure steeda and MM

MM doesn't use stock a arms. The steeda is a nice piece but I haven't seen many of them used online.

Old Exhaust
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SLP dumps. I had that an o/r h pipe. It was WAY loud. :D
 
Update: June 29, 2010

Ok well I got some more work done on here yesterday. I was able to get the passenger side almost all the way apart, just need to get a pickle fork to finish it the rest of the way and its on to the drivers side. As I am going along I am thinking of more and more parts I want to upgrade, like the breaks:nice:

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C-Springs, bye bye iso's:D
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I am debating whether or not I want to go with a tubular K-member since I am dropping the stock one anyways, but my Tokico's are still basically brand new (less than 6,000 miles)

How do you like the C springs? I just picked up a set and I might leave the iso's in for now. Could you post up a pic of the drop when you get a chance?
 
im going to give MM a call tomorrow...i remember reading in there instruction on installing a k member that you can use the stock a's but now i cant find it...it'll suck if you really cant use the stockers with them since i planned to order the mm one on fri
 
im going to give MM a call tomorrow...i remember reading in there instruction on installing a k member that you can use the stock a's but now i cant find it...it'll suck if you really cant use the stockers with them since i planned to order the mm one on fri


Proper installation of the MM K-member will also require the following parts:
Tubular front control arms (stock control arms are not compatible because of the large outside diameter of the stock pivot bushings)

MM Mustang K-Member Tech : Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader!


When I was looking for a K member I wanted to keep the stock arms. PAracing, Steeda, and QA1 were the only ones I found that did it. I went with the Steeda. I have no got the car on the road yet, so can't tell you any difference in it.
 
Ok now that I've been a ghost for so long I figure its time. Between a child birth and then being sent to Afghanistan poor Nightmare has been put on the back burner. I haven't worked on her since my last update and she's just been sleeping under the car cover in the garage. I hate that. I've recently left the military again and will finally have the time to get back to working on the stang.

I'll need the support of SN as I still need to drop the trans and I've never done it before. If the is a write up someone could link that'd be great, as I'll have to contend with the long tubes. That's really the only sticking point. Once that's out everything else will be easy. Have faith gents, I haven't given up on the Stang and I'm dead set on getting her back on the street this year.
 
Kornnut swapped his K member a few years back and had a good thread on it. Might want to take a look at his thread and if he comes in here, he can let you know of some good tips.

Glad to see more veteran members making a comeback to Stangnet.
 
If you have LT's you may have to drop the K member to pull the trans. You have to remove one of the headers to pull it out(depending on the brand). You must support the engine with something. A support bar across the top is the best. The rest is unbolting, and the K member itself is 8 bolts. I would mark where the back "feet" are relative to the body when dropping it.
 
Thanks, yea I have BBK lt's but those will be getting replaced. I don't have an engine support bar so I'll be using a jack/jack stand to support the engine. Thanks for the tip on marking the k member position. Any tips for dropping the trans itself? Also since I've been out of the mustang world for a bit, what clutches would one recommend? This won't be a daily driver but I'm not looking for an all out race clutch either. Thanks.
 
I hadan awesome post typed up, then my ****** laptop rebooted itself like it became self aware. I almost had to shoot it. Pretty tense few minutes, but it finally complied. I'll summuerize....

Here's some pics of ole' Nightmare torn down. I was able to pull the K, Headers, and all but I believe 2 bolts from the tranny. Once that hog is out I'll replace the clutch (advice is welcome), the TOB, PB, factory cable, add a firewall adjuster, and quadrant. May even replace the flywheel while I'm at it.

The K will be replace with either an AJE or QA1 so I can use the stock A-arms with upgraded bushings. I had to deep six the stock steering rack since it was leaking so I'll probably upgrade to an AGR power rack with MM solid shaft.

Then it's on to finishing the suspension and N2O system. I feel like :poo: for letting her sit for som long but I'd let her sit for 50 years before I sold her. Enjoy the pics...

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Hopefully between overtime this weekend I canget the tranny out. The I'll order the FW adj, cable, and quad. I still need to decide on a clutch and IF i want to upgrade the stock flywheel.. Enjoy Ladies!:trollface: