Mach 1 I have a Mach 1 but I dont really like the Shaker

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I'm with the original poster. Mach's are cool, but I don't like Ford's attempt at a shaker. It's not "real" and sits way too high for my taste. I like most everything about Mach's.

I currently drive an '01 Bullitt, and one of the things I love about B's is their clean lines. No spoiler, etc. The first thing I did to my B was remove the fake scoop, leaving a "V6" hood. It's even cleaner.

Having driven the B for several years, I've grown quite tired of the stick and want an auto. The lowered stance is cool, but I can't get a jack under the car and curbs and speed bumps are issues. The stiff springs are more than I want, too. I love the B, but I've mellowed some and want something a little more comfortable. Mach's are a little higher, have softer springs, and are available with an auto. Aside from the shaker setup, it's the perfect car for me.

Some want bigger scoops or make theirs "functional", but I chose to remove mine.

I'm looking at a low mileage Mach right now and would remove the shaker setup if I bought it. I would keep everything so that it could all be restored correct in the future (I still have my original Bullitt hood with scoop).

I want to know exactly what's involved in removing all the shaker stuff and going with a regular GT setup.
 
I'm with the original poster. Mach's are cool, but I don't like Ford's attempt at a shaker. It's not "real" and sits way too high for my taste. I like most everything about Mach's.


Not really sure what you mean by this :shrug:

Its not Ford's first attempt with a shaker, it was an option on the orignal 1969 and they may have been the first to use the shaker scoop.

As far as not "real"

1. it's attached to the engine and shakes when the car is running and reving
2. it's a functioning intake that feeds to the filter

What isn't real about it ?


To answer you question about removal the shaker unbolts from the top of the engine, cut the plastic ties that hold the gasket drain tube in place, unhook the air duct that runs to the filter, unbolt the hood and its gone.
 
The original '69 shaker is "real" in the sense that it sat on top of the carb and the air went directly into the breather. The new shaker has this circuitous ducting through a filter then into the throttle body. The throttle body is not right under the scoop like the carb was with the original. Yes, it's functional, but not like the original. It's "fake" because it doesn't sit on a carb or TB.

I'm not knocking the Mach's, but this is the one feature about them that I don't like. I considered buying one when I got my Bullitt, but the shaker setup broke the deal.

I was assuming that there was a different airbox or intake pipe or perhaps other hardware that has to be swapped out to revert to the standard GT setup. No?
 
IMO save 10K and buy an 01 Cobra, don’t destroy a collectors car, and don’t sell your factory hood and scoop. When you sell the car the value may go down as much as 50% because you don’t have the original parts, especially in a car like the mach.

P J MORAN this is the second time you posted how much you don’t like the mach hood and you got told the same thing there you will get told here. The shaker does sit on the intake and throttle body ( there isn’t a carburetor on the 03-4 Mach ), and it is functional, all you have to do is look at the filter to see that there is a lot of air that gets sucked in. You know why they call it a shaker hood? Because it shakes that was the whole point of the mach one hood. In the muscle car era Pontiac, GM, and Chevy had cars with shaker hoods, so did Ford, the mach 1. In 03 and 04 Ford brought back the Mach 1 nostalgia. You say the shaker broke the deal so you got a bullitt instead so do you even have a mach? And if not why does to matter to you.

BOTTEM LINE …. IF YOU REMOVE THE SHAKER IT’S NOT A REAL MACH.:nono:
 
I'm asking all of these questions because I'm looking for a Mach - I don't have one, yet. There are a coupla that have some promise, but no deal has been stricken.

If I could get a Bullitt with an automatic, that's what I'd have. Having driven a stick every day for several years, I'm over it. I was originally looking for low mileage GT's when I stumbled across a Mach and thought, "That would work!" It's a high-performance car with many of the features of a Bullitt, but with a few I don't like. The main one being the shaker setup. I simply don't like having that huge thing in my field of vision all the time. Just my taste.

So, I was just doing some research to see what was involved in removing the shaker setup. If it is simple and straightforward, it nudges me closer to buying a Mach.

If I find the Mach I want, I will pull the shaker setup and store it - hood and all. I won't "ruin" or "destroy" the car. I'll just personalize it for my enjoyment while I own it.

I removed the stock hood on my B and replaced it with a "V6" hood (no scoop). I prefer the cleaner look and the lack of scoop in my field of vision. I also removed the grille and did the "Mach 1 delete" and added the chin spoiler. I "ruined" the Bullitt.

The original hood and scoop are stored away as is the original grille. I even purchased new factory floor mats and underhood shield knowing that they would not be available when this day came. I can and will restore the car to it's "correct" status when I find it's replacement, so no harm, no foul.

If I find a Mach, I'll do a similar thing - pull what I don't like and store it for later reinstallation. Nothing ruined.

The ideal car for me is a hybrid between a Bullitt and a Mach. Ford didn't build that car, but I can. Remember I applied the Mach 1 nose treatment to my B. So, I like features of both. If I need to remove the Mach 1 emblems to avoid violating any PC rules, I can do that. :) And no collectibles will be destroyed in the process.

I still haven't figured out what I will have to get to do the conversion. I figured I'd need a new filter housing and air duct to the throttle body (hopefully both are standard GT parts), but I haven't gotten that answer.
 
If I could get a Bullitt with an automatic, that's what I'd have. Having driven a stick every day for several years, I'm over it.

I figured I'd need a new filter housing and air duct to the throttle body (hopefully both are standard GT parts), but I haven't gotten that answer.

No you won't need a new air duct to the TB or any other parts after taking off the stuff I already listed. There will be a hole in the filter shroud after removing the air duct from the Hood scoop but it won't cause any issues since it feeds to the filter not directly to the tube. None of the parts are standard GT parts on the Mach engine.

This may be a dumb question but since you like your Bullitt, don't seem to mind removing key componets of the car (the hood and factory grille)and only issue is its a manual trans, wouldn't it be alot cheaper to buy an auto trans, center console for it and remove the clutch pedal in your Bullitt than buy a new car ?
 
I considered the tranny swap a long time ago, but couldn't find any info on how to do that. It ain't 1968 any more when such things were much simpler. I have no idea what I would have to get to do the swap. I'm pretty sure even the computer has to be changed out. Dunno. I've only heard of one Bullitt having this done, and it was done by an expert shop.

At this point, with 100k miles on it, it's about more than getting rid of the auto. I'm concerned about things starting to go out on the car and it becoming unreliable. I don't want a car that I can't trust. I don't want to spend my evenings and weekends always fixing something. I don't want to have to turn it over to a shop that doesn't really care about me or my car for days at a time and hundreds of dollars a pop. I don't want to rely on a back-up car for transportation while my car is down for repairs.

Thus far, I've had to had the heater core replaced twice, both door windows have come unglued from the brackets, the crank position sensor went out, and now the IAC seems to be acting up. What's next? If I keep the car, I'm going to have to replace the front struts and probably the ball joints. Almost every day I wonder when one of the hub assemblies is going to "die". When's the alternator going to crap out? The water pump? Injector(s)? You get the idea.

This is really about finding a low-mileage car that I can rely upon. So, I'm looking for a car because my B is getting long in the tooth, not because it's a stick. It's replacement will have an auto.

I don't like the new "pony" cars on the market. The Mustang, Camaro, and Challenger are all too big. I like the size of the older Mustang. I love the styling of the Camaro, but don't like how it "fits" or the limited vision. The Challenger looks great, but is huge and heavy. The Mustang is the best of the three in all ways except looks - I just don't like it.

A super-low mileage Mach that doesn't have the defective cylinder head is the perfect fit for me right now. Low cost, right size, auto, great styling, great performance, and new car reliability.