Head Swap Build Thread: And other Improvements

I've used that Isky tool, and it does work. Not sure if it's the best way. You do need a stock cylinder head taken apart to use that tool. Don't worry, all projects get out of hand. I started back in April with the intention of changing my head gaskets. Look where I am now.

Kurt
 
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Sounds like good advice. Probe pistons are very very good, but they are also extremely expensive.

Kurt

I wouldn't say Probe's are very, very good or extremely expensive. I'd say they're a good mid range piston. I was quoted around $450 for a set of -22cc Probes for my setup. The Ross -32cc blower pistons I ended up with cost $1100 shipped with rings.

I'm not saying there's anything wrong with Probe pistons, they were actually the first company I looked at. They didn't make the pistons I was looking for so I found another company that did.
 
I wouldn't say Probe's are very, very good or extremely expensive. I'd say they're a good mid range piston. I was quoted around $450 for a set of -22cc Probes for my setup. The Ross -32cc blower pistons I ended up with cost $1100 shipped with rings.

I'm not saying there's anything wrong with Probe pistons, they were actually the first company I looked at. They didn't make the pistons I was looking for so I found another company that did.

I'll agree with that. Probe makes a very decent piston, but Ross, Mahle and Diamond are the mack daddy pistons. I just have SRPs which I would consider a step below Probe pistons.

Kurt
 
Summitracing. Why you have to have a stock cylinder head taken apart to use the tool?

The tool uses the stock cylinder head to guide it. You take the valves out of a stock cylinder head, and slip that little tool bit through the valve guide. Then you bolt the head onto the engine (doesn't have to be bolted down hard or anything, or with all 10 bolts), and attach a power drill to the other side of the Isky tool bit. It then cuts the relief with the exact angle the valve comes down at. You can actually do it with the engine still in the car. Take the cylinder head back off, and suck up all the metal shavings with a dirt devil.

Kurt
 
if you are going with trick flow heads you will need to use them to cut your valve reliefs

Theoretically you would need to do that, but I don't think 5 degrees of valve angle makes that big of a difference. Usually people use a scrap head, because it tears up the valve guides, and when you back the cutting bit off, it can junk the valve seat. I've never seen anyone put a fly cutting tool in an expensive head. It's just too risky.

Kurt
 
Hope your right kurt, Id rather not have to deal with cutting valve reliefs but I'll see when the time comes.

As for now I'm going to look into the powder coating for the accessory brackets and upper intake and contact Accufab about what they recommend for a set of Long Tubes.
 
I heard back from TEA about the valve springs I would need to go w/ the heads. They said they sell a set of 6.50 lift LS-1 springs 249.00 with steel retainer , 369.00 with titanium retainers. Is it worth going with the titanium retainers for $100?? What is the benefit of the titanium?
 
I heard back from TEA about the valve springs I would need to go w/ the heads. They said they sell a set of 6.50 lift LS-1 springs 249.00 with steel retainer , 369.00 with titanium retainers. Is it worth going with the titanium retainers for $100?? What is the benefit of the titanium?

titanium is less weight than steel :nice:

a light valve train is mo betta than a heavy one :Word:

light vt won't loose control as easily as a heavy one
light vt won't work the springs as hard as a heavy one
light vt will rev higher than a heavy one
etc

Grady
 
If you have the heads milled down to 58-60cc's your compression will be pretty close to what your wanting if the info on the stock pistons are correct. IIRC I have read that it isn't any problem to mill these heads down to that size.

Trickflow pistons have a completely different valve notch in the piston than stock heads so if a notch is needed the trickflow heads will need to be used.

I would let your cam grinder know about the head change and see what he says about valve clearance. He should be able to let you know if he thinks there will be any problems. although the only way to know for sure us to check but I know you already know that.

If you AFR's had 72cc chambers you will probably see a pretty good increase in power.
 
The retainers are titanium for strength reasons. The weight of the retainers is insignifigant. I would skip the extra $100 for the titanium retainers. Totally overkill.

Kurt
 
will milling the heads cause any additional PVC issues other then what I would have w/ out milling them? I did contact Ed Curtis about the head change and using the same cam. He said there should be no issues as long as I get the proper valve spring kit. I did not specifically ask about PVC but I can write back to him