1992 mustang gt build thread (1bad67sbf)

[5.0Droptop]

ok makes since.... Too bad it wasnt the easy drill and tap block method......

 

[1bad67sbf]

ok makes since.... Too bad it wasnt the easy drill and tap block method......

LOL, tell me about it. i could reuse stuff i already have but nope, like every project i do i have to open the wallet and wait for the big brown truck.

 

[hoopty5.0]

LOL, tell me about it. i could reuse stuff i already have but nope, like every project i do i have to open the wallet and wait for the big brown truck.

I feel your pain. Im just trying to put my 302 back in for a short time and ran into a laundry list of problems. I too am waiting on the brown truck after lightening the wallet some.

 

[1bad67sbf]

I feel your pain. Im just trying to put my 302 back in for a short time and ran into a laundry list of problems. I too am waiting on the brown truck after lightening the wallet some.

it sucks to f the budget up but it is fun when you get the new parts

 

[smokin joe]

its a GOOD day, i went out after work to cut my stock H pipe out to take to the scrap yard for some quick cash and thought the cat back looked clean so i looked closer and it already has a DYNOMAX catback with super turbo mufflers. that saved me a nice chunk of change and it should sound good with the 1-3/4 BBK long tubes and BBK h pipe i got the other day. anyone have that catback? how do they sound?

I have a Dynomax ultra flow SS on my 93. It's not to loud at cruising or WOT. Sometimes I wish I had something more agressive. I did have super turbos on my 72 Camaro and I thought it sounded great, I got compliments all the time.

Nice looking car too, glad you are saving it.

 

[1bad67sbf]

thanks, i cant wait to spin the tires for the first time

 

[1bad67sbf]

well i picked the smaller cam, here are the specs,
•Advertised Duration (Intake/Exhaust) 270/280
•Duration @.050" (Intake/Exhaust) 204/214
•Gross Valve Lift (Intake/Exhaust) .448"/.472"
•Lobe Seperation 112
•Intake Center Line 107
•RPM Range 1200-5200

 

[smokin joe]

I forgot to mention I still have the stock headers and 4 cat h-pipe on my car. Hopefully it will open up a little when I change them.

 

[1bad67sbf]

i was going to run the stock headers and h pipe but knock out two of the cats but when i got the BBK headers and H pipe shipped for $375 i had to get it. im thinking it will give the catback a little more aggresive sound. i had a guy tell me the 1-3/4 headers will cause a loss of TQ on the bottom, is this true?

 

[1bad67sbf]

well i got my intake and after fixing two broken mounting ears on the upper (time will tell if jb weld holds) i got started cleaning the casting junk on the runners and wanted to know if its a waist of time to port any?
here is what i got

 

[smokin joe]

i had a guy tell me the 1-3/4 headers will cause a loss of TQ on the bottom, is this true?

I am no expert on this but I do know that long tube headers will give up some torque while adding horsepower. I don't think it will be a noticable difference though.

 

[1bad67sbf]

I am no expert on this but I do know that long tube headers will give up some torque while adding horsepower. I don't think it will be a noticable difference though.

yeah, this guy was saying that 1 5/8 tubes would make more tq than 1 3/4 but i dont feel it will but i guess time will tell.

 

[1bad67sbf]

the edelbrock performer intake i got (on page2), is that an old ass intake because most dont look like this with the ribs?

 

[1bad67sbf]

sent my upper intake to the machine shop to weld the two broken ears back on and deck the base. got the inside done other than rear speakers and head unit. im going to swap the cam and valve springs this weekend and put all new gaskets in the motor from top to bottom. after the motor is together things should move fast.
some dumb ass cut the trans crossmember mount. what would be the best way to fix this?

 

[Mr. Rustypwnz]

go to the yard and cut one off another car? thats what i would be doing.

 

[1bad67sbf]

unless i cut the floor out i would butcher it. im thinking of welding a plate of 1/8-3/16 sheet metal and bolting the cross member in and running a drill bit through the bolt hole and out the sheet metal so its lined up right. my only issue is it will most likley look s**ty.

 

[hoopty5.0]

Well even if it does look bad, its under the car and 99.5% of people would never know, except you and us, haha! But you could just cut a shape out, drill the hole and weld it, right?

 

[1bad67sbf]

thats a better idea, i will drill the hole then bolt it to the crossmember and weld it from their. thanks.
i got about 70% of the engine harness back hooked up. its a bitch to put a car back together you did not take apart. this is also my first time hooking up an efi system, i have been looking at alot of under hood fox efi pics to see where everything goes but it helps that the wires still hold the shape of where they should be.

 

[hoopty5.0]

I know what you mean with the wiring. I rerouted all mine the other day to hide them and forgot where stuff went. I found this in the tech section:

Mustang FAQ - Wiring & Engine Info

In there you will find any wiring diagram you could ever need clearly explained.
About 4-5 links down is the engine harness and main harness diagrams that I used...
It was a God send for me!!! Should help you out too.

 

[1bad67sbf]

thats going to save me alot of time, thanks again